Where can I find performance pads for my 94 G20? I was hoping for EBC or Axxis Metal Master or something good. Also, where can I get power slotted or drilled rotors at the best price? Thanks

Do slotted and cross-drilled rotors even help? I know they help with the cooling (less fade?), but I read somewhere that they won't shorten your braking distances. Only bigger rotors actually improve braking performance. The only reason people think slots/cross drills help is because getting slotted/cross-drilled rotors usually involves getting BIGGER rotors.

Sorry, but in my opinion, slotted/cross-drilled rotors are just another ricey mod, just for show *unless you actually fade your brakes, autocrossing, road racing, etc. ;) * I mean, I just HATE it when I see some Honda going by with big slotted/drilled rotors in the front, but stock drums in the back. I'm sure that slotting really compensates. lol it's even funnier if I look up close to see that they're not even real rotors at all, but just trick hubcaps. lol

drilling means you get much less life out of the rotors and pads... same goes for slotted...

...and I agree.. unless you do some serious track events.. why bother? ....you really don't need them for autocross events either because you are talking about 1 minute of use at a time... not a lot of time to worry about fade and heat build up like on a track!

MetalMasters suck on any car.

So far on the G I have had stock, VGX "Silent Silver" and now the Axis Ultimates. So far the Axis ultimates are the best by far. I can get them to fade, but only after a few very hard stops.

The key is good pads, bedded properly, with decent brake fluid that is fresh, and properly bled. I use Ford DOT3 brake fluid, it has a boiling point higher than most DOT4 and 5 fluid, but it's cheap.

Listen to what they said about slotted and crossdrilled. It's ricer crap.

I think you'd feel a bit of improvement with stainless steel brake lines along with better brake fluid (and remember to change the fluid at least every 2 years!) ...there is always Racing Blue brake fluid which is superior but more expensive and again only really necessary if you track the car (higher boiling point, etc.)

IMHO, cross drilling and slotting are NOT crap. Nor are they first on the list of brake upgrades.

Both are intended to facilitate outgassing of the pads at high temperature and thus eliminate the worst kind of brake fading there is - gas fade. This is when the resin in the pad material gets hot enough to vaporise and form a lubricating gas layer between pads and rotors. Unlike pad temp or fluid temp fade, applying more pedal has little effect. It's scary.

Slotting also helps to keep high temperature pads from glazing. Preference seems to be for slotted rather than drilled nowadays due to less cracking problems and the deglazing benefit.

No, cross drilling and/or slotting is not crap. But honestly, when are you gonna drive your car hard enough that they would actually help? Besides wearing down your pads faster (this is an extra bitch if you have really expensive pads by Brembo or Nismo or something), cross drilling and/or slotting is never a replacement for getting bigger rotors. Bigger rotors are the true brake performance upgrade. Cross drilling/slotting is mostly a visual upgrade because honestly, when are you gonna do 0-100-0 mph tests *like Motor Trend* all day long? Even autocrossing won't require cross drilled/slotted rotors (unless you really ARE doing it all day).

By all means, if you need it, go for it. I just feel like most people who get them *cough, Hondas* don't really need them.

if you want a real brake setup for your G20 do the 300zx twinturbo brake conversion... kinda sucks cause you gotta get new rims too cause it's gonna change to a 5 lug... but at least they got nicer looking rims in 5 lug...

Not only that, but you have to do some drilling on the 300ZX rotors too. If I'm not mistaken, you'll also have to shave a little of the outer edge of the brakes too, because they won't fit right unless you get huge rims. 5 lugs are nice to get too though.

the drilling part is possible but not sure... most people that i know that done the conversion already have at least 17's so that might be why their's don't rub...

MMM, you don't have to switch to 5 lug to use the 300Z brakes. Anyone know Al Abadilla? He did it keeping 4 lug. It wasn't all that hard.

Here is a link to Al's site:

http://www.conecrazy.com/project-g20/main.html

And here is the brake page:

http://www.conecrazy.com/project-g20/brakes.html

Outgassing hasn't been a problem with brake pads since the 1960's.

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/brake_performance.html

But it is work to get to that point.. if you have the time and funds, it does look great and probably performs fantastic but keep in mind that it means different maintenance every time you do a brake job and it could be prolematic if/when you decide to sell the car!

He kept it four lug, but like I said, he had to drill holes. But I wonder why he didn't do the rears also?

because expense got too high.. and/or because the fronts do most of the braking anyway?!?;)

Originally posted by FF Drifter
No, cross drilling and/or slotting is not crap. But honestly, when are you gonna drive your car hard enough that they would actually help? Besides wearing down your pads faster (this is an extra bitch if you have really expensive pads by Brembo or Nismo or something), cross drilling and/or slotting is never a replacement for getting bigger rotors. Bigger rotors are the true brake performance upgrade. Cross drilling/slotting is mostly a visual upgrade because honestly, when are you gonna do 0-100-0 mph tests *like Motor Trend* all day long? Even autocrossing won't require cross drilled/slotted rotors (unless you really ARE doing it all day).

By all means, if you need it, go for it. I just feel like most people who get them *cough, Hondas* don't really need them. Point taken - as long as you have bedded your pads in sufficiently before working them really hard. It's more of a problem with new-ish pads (although pads that have been on for awhile, but only used lightly, can still green fade when pushed). IMHO, green fade or out-gassing takes a higher priority than other types of fade because it can come on suddenly and can't be compensated for with pedal pressure the same way as pad fade and fluid fade.

Regarding bigger rotors - my view is that as long as you can outbrake your tires (lock-up wheels or cause the ABS to operate), you have enough braking force. Bigger rotors will just make it easier to lock-up your tires (or operate ABS) but will not shorten stopping distances (which are limited by tires).

However, bigger rotors will be more fade resistent than stock sized rotors due to extra mass and heat rejection. Therefore, by fade proofing stock brakes through upgrading pads, fluid and cross-drilling/slotting etc - you can get the benefit available with bigger rotors without the downsides (clearance problems, increased unsprung weight and increased rotational inertia).

So in a way, large brake rotors may be considered more cosmetic than cross-drilled/slotted stock rotors.:crosseyed

Just to put it in perspective, I'd list order of brake upgrades this way:
1) friction material
2) fluid
3) hoses (for pedal feel)
4) x-drill/slotted (prefer slotting)
5) larger discs
6) multi-piston calipers
Some advocate upgrading front only as half steps between those above - I don't subscribe to that because the unbalanced f/r braking forces become disproportionate to the weight distribution of the car. It can actually reduce total braking force and cause the vehicle to become unstable under braking.
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_brakes/brakes_balancing.lasso

Originally posted by jayntguru
Outgassing hasn't been a problem with brake pads since the 1960's.

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/brake_performance.html Had a quick skim through that link and didn't find that bit ........ enlighten me, please :-\

Yeah, Al was the first (that I know of) to do teh 300zx conversion. It takes a LOT of time and effort to do, IMO. You have to redrill the rotors (not a huge deal) and shave off some of the outside of the rotor to decrease teh diameter, and this is on everyone you ever run, so if you have to get new rotors, you have to do this again. The other BIG factor is fitting them under a set of wheels. You can get away with 16" rims if the design and offset if correct, but it'd still be VERY tight. I'd be willing to bet most everyone would have to go to a 17" rim to get them to fit easily.

Jay- I have had experience with the VGX "Silent Silvers" and I thought they sucked bad. I have a set of PBR metal master pads in there now, they aren't bad, couldn't fade them at the last track event, although the course wasn't too hard on brakes either. I also run good fluid (motul RBF600- i think). i just got a set of SMC lines in the mail too... can't wait to install those and put in all new fluid too =)

Originally posted by JustinP10
Jay- I have had experience with the VGX "Silent Silvers" and I thought they sucked bad.

Ditto here. They sucked. Work great until you get them hot, then they just stink and suck.

Where can I get the Axxis Ulitmate brake pads? The brake warehouse said that there isn't an application for my 94 G20? I would like to get both the front and rear sets if available.

That's crazy because I bought mine from there. They work fine.

Originally posted by 1PhatG
Where can I get the Axxis Ulitmate brake pads? The brake warehouse said that there isn't an application for my 94 G20? I would like to get both the front and rear sets if available.

I went with the Rotex metal masters they were $58 front and $56 rear. I went through Brake Warehouse.
www.brakewarehouse.net Randy is a great guy and knows his shit. He offers a mean set of cross combo Brembo rotors for our G20..

Is there a link on the site, and how much $?

Originally posted by DragerG20
Is there a link on the site, and how much $?


Randys site is for show caseing his products. He hasn't ventured into the online ordering as of yet.

You can call him and get your quotes.

so what are the best pads for a p10 ????? how much ???

Originally posted by 6'5 290lbs in a G20
so what are the best pads for a p10 ????? how much ???


Rotex

Originally posted by 6'5 290lbs in a G20
so what are the best pads for a p10 ????? how much ???


Rotex

Front $58
Rear $56