Hey the computer here isnt letting the search function work so if this is a repat im sorry .

Ive been saveing up and now i can afford getting a DET in 2 months . when i go to do the install will i be able to reatin the A/C system that came with the car or will it have to be removed ? is there a acessory bracket that can be transfered over? i would like to know before i get it . its going to florida with me and id like to have A/C down there .

Yes. Some pipe rebending may be necessary, but it will fit.

I still have my AC and I didn't have to bend any pipes or modify anything. Of course, I did not use the BB compressor discharage. I used one from a 300ZXTT and routed it the opposite direction. =)

cool, sounds good , you ran a turbo off a 300zx? or the a/c compressor? what was the reason for either which ever the case might be ? anyway thanks i will sleep easier after buying it

Originally posted by stoneage_tech
cool, sounds good , you ran a turbo off a 300zx? or the a/c compressor? what was the reason for either which ever the case might be ? anyway thanks i will sleep easier after buying it

Neither.

I used the stock G20 compressor and the stock BB DET turbo (well almost stock, but the one that came with it).

The compressor discharge is the pipe that bolts to the compressor. It's a big honkin' think on the BB DET that points toward the passenger fender. The 300ZXTT discharge I used just angles up and forward slightly. It's tiny and works great. I'll see if I can't get some photos by this weekend. I've just got a lot going on in my life at the moment, so no promises.

Okay, Geo, so I was looking around at Courtesy the other day, and I saw this page:Turbo Hardware (http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_turbo-hw.html)So is it the passenger side (starboard) outlet or driver side (port) outlet, or is there a difference?

Damn I wanna do that shit!! I want a det in here...

Originally posted by CowboyDren
Okay, Geo, so I was looking around at Courtesy the other day, and I saw this page:http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_turbo-hw.html" ("Turbo HardwareSo is it the passenger side (starboard) outlet or driver side (port) outlet, or is there a difference?


Excellent sluthing. =)

It's the discharge on the passenger side. The piece that bolts onto the compressor housing.

Very very good Jon.

Once in a while, I even suprise myself. =) Looking at this (ahem) drawing makes me wonder if the driver side discharge would fit better still. If the angle is as acute as this drawing suggests, there would be a bit more of a pressure drop, but it would be most excellent for packaging. Then one starts to wonder if it's big enough for a T28, blah blah blah...

Originally posted by CowboyDren
Once in a while, I even suprise myself. =) Looking at this (ahem) drawing makes me wonder if the driver side discharge would fit better still. If the angle is as acute as this drawing suggests, there would be a bit more of a pressure drop, but it would be most excellent for packaging. Then one starts to wonder if it's big enough for a T28, blah blah blah...


No it won't. I actually bought both discharge pipes. I got them used from a prominent local 300ZX tuner for $20. =) The confines are entirely too tight to use the driver's side discharge. Get the passenger one if you are going to do custom piping.

I really need to take some photos of my piping. Even if I am patting myself on the back, the packaging of my pipes is extremely good. I think the only way to really improve it is to get a DET from a U13 where the discharge flows down instead of up. That would probably allow the piping to run under either side of the car. With my set-up, both IC pipes run under the driver's side. There is a pretty good picture of it in my article.

hope they keep this topic around for awhile so i can come back to it as i do the install , any place thats good to get a DET? im looking at srswap.com right now , bout 1900 for a front drive det but id like to get a tranny for it to as mine doesnt have limited slip . i really appriate all the help , i have geos SCC article back in the states on the swap so that will help tons too . Geo is the man

Rotating the compressor housing is a pretty trivial task if you have the right size pliers handy. I just wish that the S14 and S15 had a 180* outlet cast into their compressor housings. :D

Originally posted by CowboyDren
Rotating the compressor housing is a pretty trivial task if you have the right size pliers handy. I just wish that the S14 and S15 had a 180* outlet cast into their compressor housings. :D

Ah, not true. Something you would find out once you tried it (I looked at that =) ).

The problem is the actuator for the internal wastegate. It would take some dinking around to make it work.

Dinking with the stock wastegate aside, it's not uncommon. You're right, I haven't tried, but I've heard of several (with stock wastegate actuator) on the SR20DE Forum. It seems that there are multiple linkage configurations, and there are limited options, but options just the same.

When I had the DET motor on the P11, I was able to retain the AC, however, keep in mind that your factory cooling system was not designed to cool down a turbo engine thus the chances of you experiencing overheating problems with the AC on will be there. Obviously, there are many solutions to this, but it's something I've experienced and just passing on the torch! =)

Originally posted by LukeAtMe
When I had the DET motor on the P11, I was able to retain the AC, however, keep in mind that your factory cooling system was not designed to cool down a turbo engine thus the chances of you experiencing overheating problems with the AC on will be there. Obviously, there are many solutions to this, but it's something I've experienced and just passing on the torch! =)

Good point Luke.

I had to upgrade to a double row radiator. I found an aftermarket replacement one. Later I found out the slushbox radiator from Infiniti is also a double row. May be the same for the P11. Also, the P11 Diesel radiator is a straight drop-in upgrade.

one of my jeep buds had overheating problems and put a aluminum 3 core radiator in his cherokee's 4.0 . not sure how many core the stock unit is but im sure theres a improved version out there right?
man this is looking like quite the task , rebuild a sr20det (dont feel safe just slapping it in there) new turbo, new radiator ,new struts/springs. bushings, motormounts , tires/wheels its gonna be a whole diffrent car .

all this to get rid of a top end engine rattle, get some ponys, turn beatter and get rid of a front end rattle

would a rebuild of the current motor (drop compression/stronger rods while in there) and a f-max kit be beatter?

Originally posted by stoneage_tech
would a rebuild of the current motor (drop compression/stronger rods while in there) and a f-max kit be beatter?

I think rebuilding a DE with low comp pistons is a better deal.

ok so a dropped compression low port sr20 with a fmax kit would be the best bet . thats what ill do guess ill need a ecu too .how bout cams? should i pop for a 91 cam? or is that not a turbo freindly cam?crank strong enough? am i asking too questions?

thanks for the help this is really helping me out alot

JWT can deal with your ECU. If you rebuild a low-port engine for turbo use, I can only assume that they'll just set you up like a DET with a Cobra MAF sensor. JWT S3, S4, and C1 grinds are all very friendly to turbochargers, but you may want to invest in some adjustable sprockets to make them "more" friendly.

Personally, I'd rather start with a DET, but I'm more than a little strange sometimes. =)

Originally posted by stoneage_tech
ok so a dropped compression low port sr20 with a fmax kit would be the best bet . thats what ill do guess ill need a ecu too .how bout cams? should i pop for a 91 cam? or is that not a turbo freindly cam?crank strong enough? am i asking too questions?

thanks for the help this is really helping me out alot



Originally posted by CowboyDren
JWT can deal with your ECU. If you rebuild a low-port engine for turbo use, I can only assume that they'll just set you up like a DET with a Cobra MAF sensor. JWT S3, S4, and C1 grinds are all very friendly to turbochargers, but you may want to invest in some adjustable sprockets to make them "more" friendly.

Personally, I'd rather start with a DET, but I'm more than a little strange sometimes. =)

If you're going to do a rebuild, starting with a DET is a total waste of money. The only thing you would gain is sodium filled valves, and if you opt for Swain coating on the valve faces, that is probably more effective anyway.

JWT already has a program for the F-Max set-up. They can advise you what to get. They can also install the piston coolers in your block. If you are going to build a honkin' turbo, I'd suggest looking at the JWT forged pistons. They will give you 8.5:1 CR and are 87mm which you can get your block bored to while you are getting the piston coolers.

Jon is correct about the cams and cam gears.

As for the internals being strong enough, the answer is a resounding yes. The DE internals are the same as the BB DET and very much up to the task for the hp levels you are chasing.

im guessing they do the rebuild on the motor?
this sounds great since i dont have a FSM yet for torque specs etc.
gonna give jwt a call whem im back stateside .
thanks!

Originally posted by stoneage_tech
im guessing they do the rebuild on the motor?
this sounds great since i dont have a FSM yet for torque specs etc.
gonna give jwt a call whem im back stateside .
thanks!


No, JWT won't do the rebuild. They will bore, hone, drill and tap for piston coolers, etc. If you aren't willing to do the assembly yourself, you'll have to find someone to do it for you.

no im ok with the assembly of it as long as i can get a manual . just wondering after hearing about the piston cooling install ,