Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram
G20.net is the premier Infiniti G20 Nissan Primera Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram

  1. #1
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860

    Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram

    I have a 1999 g20t. I've searched though titles and keywords through this forum only to find very little information for a nice picture of a vacuum hose routing diagram. The previous owner of my car hacked things up pretty bad, I even had hoses that were just cut and sitting out in the open. Regardless, almost immediately after I replaced my crank position sensor, I'm throwing another CEL or SES light, and after running the code, it can be traced back to a selenoid on a vacuum line which is probably incorrectly routed.

    Anyone with a picture or diagram that shows the correct OEM routing, or a link to go to the right place, would be much appreciated. I've been searching for awhile now and I've only been hitting dead ends.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    G20.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    G20 Guru LoSt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,059
    FSM would be my first place to look: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G20/

  4. #3
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    Thanks for the FSM link, I've seen that picture, and call me dumb, but that layout of that diagram on page 27 of EC makes my head hurt. I'm breaking down that picture in a jpg format which will only show componets of the vacuum system, with correct routing layout for vacuum hoses. I swear I've been looking for a day now, and everything I have looked at thus far is garbage. If anyone else has some advice on things out there that can help me to make this fix, it would be much appreciated, otherwise it's one of those things I'll figure out as I go. At least we'll have a decent write up on this forum on how to do it right (god knows I can't find anything for the life of me).

  5. #4
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    For now this is the best I can do with the FSM picture. The green lines clearly outline the routing of the vacuum hoses going to the intake. The SR20DE has a lot of emissions equiptment loaded onto the motor, and from my previous experience with my P10, it doesn't like to be tampered with. It would really be nice to just remove the entire system in my opinion and not have to deal with the headaches, but I'm sure that would be a whole other can of worms in itself. I'll continue to update as I fix my car, hopefully the next person looking for info on this how to fix will have a much easier time than me.



    Last edited by ferrari21; Apr 29, 10 at 02:49 PM. Reason: Added link to full picture. if photobucket times out image, email me at aferraro21@hotmail.com so I can refresh my account.

  6. #5
    G20 Guru David99G20T's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,378
    That looks different than the vacuum diagram I saw. The one I am looking at is on EC-21 and it seems pretty easy to follow. I used it to connect some loose hoses that I had on the back of my intake manifold

  7. #6
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    Quote Originally Posted by David99G20T View Post
    That looks different than the vacuum diagram I saw. The one I am looking at is on EC-21 and it seems pretty easy to follow. I used it to connect some loose hoses that I had on the back of my intake manifold
    Taking another look, you're right, that diagram looks much better. I have some work to do on Saturday, hopefully I can get this SES light to go bye bye. Thanks for the advice.


  8. #7
    stock rocks! Robj80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    meriden, CT
    Posts
    8,109
    if you post up the codes your getting we may be able to help. Honestly I would ditch the EGR and BPT valve and stick the resisitor in the temp sensor harness. Cleans the bay up nice, easier to keep track of everything and I sell EGR plates .
    How do you know if LSD or not? Like you would check any tranny. Get down there and look for a bulge.

  9. #8
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    Quote Originally Posted by Robj80 View Post
    if you post up the codes your getting we may be able to help. Honestly I would ditch the EGR and BPT valve and stick the resisitor in the temp sensor harness. Cleans the bay up nice, easier to keep track of everything and I sell EGR plates .
    Thank you, I'll keep that in mind (are your plates machined cut? what type of metal are you using? thickness? and do you include bolts?) I'd like to fix it first to know they work before I do anything. I just bought my 99' about 3 weeks ago, and I'm sure the wonderful secretary of state (IL) is going to have me stop by for an emissions test in the near future.

    I'm assuming the resistor mod is the same as the one for P10's? I forgot the specs on the required resistor, but I'm sure it will be easy to find. I have no doubt my lines are mismatched on my EVAP purge control valve, vacuum line to air duct, and hose to EGR. I'll have time to work on it tomorrow, hopefully I can clear the codes by then.

  10. #9
    stock rocks! Robj80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    meriden, CT
    Posts
    8,109
    Quote Originally Posted by ferrari21 View Post
    Thank you, I'll keep that in mind (are your plates machined cut? what type of metal are you using? thickness? and do you include bolts?) I'd like to fix it first to know they work before I do anything. I just bought my 99' about 3 weeks ago, and I'm sure the wonderful secretary of state (IL) is going to have me stop by for an emissions test in the near future.

    I'm assuming the resistor mod is the same as the one for P10's? I forgot the specs on the required resistor, but I'm sure it will be easy to find. I have no doubt my lines are mismatched on my EVAP purge control valve, vacuum line to air duct, and hose to EGR. I'll have time to work on it tomorrow, hopefully I can clear the codes by then.
    1/8" mill aluminum and they are waterjet cut. No bolts or gasket included..
    How do you know if LSD or not? Like you would check any tranny. Get down there and look for a bulge.

  11. #10
    c:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    2,438
    you can also eliminate a large amount of the vacuum hoses by getting the '96 ecu. it only uses 1 solenoid, vs. the 3 that the '99 uses, it also helps to have the '96 plenum as well, you can easily cut it down to:
    brake booster line
    evap line (larger one to plenum)
    evap line (smaller one to solenoid)
    vc breather (to plenum)
    fuel pressure line.

    on the solenoid you'll run it:
    1 to throttle body line
    1 to small evap line
    1 to intake hose.

    this way you'll also get rid for the erg at the same time. on the p11 it's the black solenoid that the '96 ecu still uses. also you'll need to move pin 110 to 108 on the '96 ecu (wow i actually remember the right pins this time yay!!)
    it's the wire for the rear o2 sensor heater.

  12. #11
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    Thanks for the input Thunder, something I'm going to consider. I'm sure I have all my vacuum hoses going to the right place, on Friday it didn't throw any codes for about 20 miles. I popped a resistor into the EGR temp sensor plug, and up until about 1 hour ago, and driving about 100 miles (I drove around a lot this weekend), my SES light came on again. Rob had a really old thread somewhere out there where he said the same thing happened with his 99 when he tried the resistor trick on his car. It seemed to work fine on my 93.5 no problem about 5 years ago, I never threw a code and I used the exact same resistor and EGR block off plates (100k ohm 1/2 watt). Anyway, it blows these 99's and + are so sensitive.

    I think my next step is going to be to plug everything back in the way it's supposed to be set up. If it throws a code again, I'm thinking I might just fork over the cash and let the "stealership" take care of it. I'm just frustrated because I don't have the right diagnostics to do this job correctly. Anyone in the Chicagoland area have recommendations for Infiniti dealerships who take care of their customers? I usually have bad experiences with places like that, like Orland Park Nissan, they want you to keep coming in and paying money for repairs they never actually fix (not trying to throw this thread too far off topic) but any help would be much appreciated.

  13. #12
    Nonaggressor Krist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Orange County
    Posts
    2,773
    Lift your hood up and look on the underside.
    Isn't the vacuum hose diagram right there?

  14. #13
    stock rocks! Robj80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    meriden, CT
    Posts
    8,109
    Quote Originally Posted by ferrari21 View Post
    Thanks for the input Thunder, something I'm going to consider. I'm sure I have all my vacuum hoses going to the right place, on Friday it didn't throw any codes for about 20 miles. I popped a resistor into the EGR temp sensor plug, and up until about 1 hour ago, and driving about 100 miles (I drove around a lot this weekend), my SES light came on again. Rob had a really old thread somewhere out there where he said the same thing happened with his 99 when he tried the resistor trick on his car. It seemed to work fine on my 93.5 no problem about 5 years ago, I never threw a code and I used the exact same resistor and EGR block off plates (100k ohm 1/2 watt). Anyway, it blows these 99's and + are so sensitive.

    I think my next step is going to be to plug everything back in the way it's supposed to be set up. If it throws a code again, I'm thinking I might just fork over the cash and let the "stealership" take care of it. I'm just frustrated because I don't have the right diagnostics to do this job correctly. Anyone in the Chicagoland area have recommendations for Infiniti dealerships who take care of their customers? I usually have bad experiences with places like that, like Orland Park Nissan, they want you to keep coming in and paying money for repairs they never actually fix (not trying to throw this thread too far off topic) but any help would be much appreciated.
    68k ohm resistor on the 99. 100 doesn't work.
    How do you know if LSD or not? Like you would check any tranny. Get down there and look for a bulge.

  15. #14
    G20 Senior Member ferrari21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bolingbrook, IL
    Posts
    860
    Quote Originally Posted by Krist View Post
    Lift your hood up and look on the underside.
    Isn't the vacuum hose diagram right there?
    Looks like the previous owner may have taken it off, or had the hood replaced, unfortunately, I didn't have that available. The FSM picture above worked really good though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robj80 View Post
    68k ohm resistor on the 99. 100 doesn't work.
    Thanks again Rob, I'll make a run over to a RadioShack tonight after work and give the 68k ohm resistor a try (1/4 or 1/2 watt should do right? I'm pretty sure I read up that it doesn't matter, seems like 1/4 is the preferred one though on a 99). I know the 100 worked fine on my 93.5 and I never threw an egr related code ever again. Seems to be worth a $3 try before I give up on it and let someone else take care of it. Thanks again for all the input everyone.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •