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Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram

22K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  ferrari21 
#1 ·
I have a 1999 g20t. I've searched though titles and keywords through this forum only to find very little information for a nice picture of a vacuum hose routing diagram. The previous owner of my car hacked things up pretty bad, I even had hoses that were just cut and sitting out in the open. Regardless, almost immediately after I replaced my crank position sensor, I'm throwing another CEL or SES light, and after running the code, it can be traced back to a selenoid on a vacuum line which is probably incorrectly routed.

Anyone with a picture or diagram that shows the correct OEM routing, or a link to go to the right place, would be much appreciated. I've been searching for awhile now and I've only been hitting dead ends.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the FSM link, I've seen that picture, and call me dumb, but that layout of that diagram on page 27 of EC makes my head hurt. I'm breaking down that picture in a jpg format which will only show componets of the vacuum system, with correct routing layout for vacuum hoses. I swear I've been looking for a day now, and everything I have looked at thus far is garbage. If anyone else has some advice on things out there that can help me to make this fix, it would be much appreciated, otherwise it's one of those things I'll figure out as I go. At least we'll have a decent write up on this forum on how to do it right (god knows I can't find anything for the life of me).
 
#4 · (Edited)
For now this is the best I can do with the FSM picture. The green lines clearly outline the routing of the vacuum hoses going to the intake. The SR20DE has a lot of emissions equiptment loaded onto the motor, and from my previous experience with my P10, it doesn't like to be tampered with. It would really be nice to just remove the entire system in my opinion and not have to deal with the headaches, but I'm sure that would be a whole other can of worms in itself. I'll continue to update as I fix my car, hopefully the next person looking for info on this how to fix will have a much easier time than me.



 
#7 ·
if you post up the codes your getting we may be able to help. Honestly I would ditch the EGR and BPT valve and stick the resisitor in the temp sensor harness. Cleans the bay up nice, easier to keep track of everything and I sell EGR plates :).
 
#8 ·
Thank you, I'll keep that in mind (are your plates machined cut? what type of metal are you using? thickness? and do you include bolts?) I'd like to fix it first to know they work before I do anything. I just bought my 99' about 3 weeks ago, and I'm sure the wonderful secretary of state (IL) is going to have me stop by for an emissions test in the near future.

I'm assuming the resistor mod is the same as the one for P10's? I forgot the specs on the required resistor, but I'm sure it will be easy to find. I have no doubt my lines are mismatched on my EVAP purge control valve, vacuum line to air duct, and hose to EGR. I'll have time to work on it tomorrow, hopefully I can clear the codes by then.
 
#10 ·
you can also eliminate a large amount of the vacuum hoses by getting the '96 ecu. it only uses 1 solenoid, vs. the 3 that the '99 uses, it also helps to have the '96 plenum as well, you can easily cut it down to:
brake booster line
evap line (larger one to plenum)
evap line (smaller one to solenoid)
vc breather (to plenum)
fuel pressure line.

on the solenoid you'll run it:
1 to throttle body line
1 to small evap line
1 to intake hose.

this way you'll also get rid for the erg at the same time. on the p11 it's the black solenoid that the '96 ecu still uses. also you'll need to move pin 110 to 108 on the '96 ecu (wow i actually remember the right pins this time yay!!)
it's the wire for the rear o2 sensor heater.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the input Thunder, something I'm going to consider. I'm sure I have all my vacuum hoses going to the right place, on Friday it didn't throw any codes for about 20 miles. I popped a resistor into the EGR temp sensor plug, and up until about 1 hour ago, and driving about 100 miles (I drove around a lot this weekend), my SES light came on again. Rob had a really old thread somewhere out there where he said the same thing happened with his 99 when he tried the resistor trick on his car. It seemed to work fine on my 93.5 no problem about 5 years ago, I never threw a code and I used the exact same resistor and EGR block off plates (100k ohm 1/2 watt). Anyway, it blows these 99's and + are so sensitive.

I think my next step is going to be to plug everything back in the way it's supposed to be set up. If it throws a code again, I'm thinking I might just fork over the cash and let the "stealership" take care of it. I'm just frustrated because I don't have the right diagnostics to do this job correctly. Anyone in the Chicagoland area have recommendations for Infiniti dealerships who take care of their customers? I usually have bad experiences with places like that, like Orland Park Nissan, they want you to keep coming in and paying money for repairs they never actually fix (not trying to throw this thread too far off topic) but any help would be much appreciated.
 
#14 ·
Looks like the previous owner may have taken it off, or had the hood replaced, unfortunately, I didn't have that available. The FSM picture above worked really good though.

68k ohm resistor on the 99. 100 doesn't work.
Thanks again Rob, I'll make a run over to a RadioShack tonight after work and give the 68k ohm resistor a try (1/4 or 1/2 watt should do right? I'm pretty sure I read up that it doesn't matter, seems like 1/4 is the preferred one though on a 99). I know the 100 worked fine on my 93.5 and I never threw an egr related code ever again. Seems to be worth a $3 try before I give up on it and let someone else take care of it. Thanks again for all the input everyone.
 
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