externally waste gating stock mani

[p10det]

I tryed to surch but failed.
Im going to be welding schedual 10 ss to the stock cast manifold on my sisters boyfreands s14 mani

what im useing is miller syncrowave 200 tig

the manifold is all preped and ready and the tial mvs v band it welded to schedual ten I have shaped to the manifold

if anyone has reeliable tips on somthing to do and has experiance with this I would like to possible contact you are somone you know .

I just dont want his manifold to crack later

he is dieing to get his car boack on the road he has a s13 hatch with s14 sr20 and for this year he will be running my old jgy bb37turbo and new tomei i think 270 cams DW 800 or 850cc injectors

[akuma810]

biggest tip told to me by the person who did mine was letting it cool slowly. In sand or some medium

[p10det]

he did buy sand and brought me a bucket

but he also mentioned preheating with tourch. not sure if it is nesisary to preheat the many is wire brused to bare metal and cleaned with acatone

was thinking if I heated with tourch the metal might get soot on it. I would really be nice to talk to someone who has done it and don it well before I wing it

[Snickers]

Well first you need high Nickel rod. There is specific Cast iron rod but high nickel is all you need. The Cast iron will suck the heat away from the weld like aluminum because it has a high thermal conductivity. You can use Stick welding rod for cast Iron on the manifold for welding filler.

-Pre heat the manifold, I'd say hotter the better, but 200-300 deg best IMO
-Tack the piece on you want to weld on
-Start welding it slowly, you may have to add heat externally to keep the temp up.
-DO NOT over heat the weld with the TIG. If you add too much heat it will bubble and pop like dirty steel.
-After welding a bit, like 1- 1 1/2" stop and use a hammer to "peen" the manifold. this stress relieves it. do it for a few seconds, then go back to welding.
-once done, add some more heat to the piece, then wrap it up very well in a heat or thermal blanket, or sand (best) so that it cools slowly.w

I have welded a lot of cast iron to steel and have never had anything crack (so far atleast

[p10det]

thanks I have seen some people useing 309L stainless wire they state it is high in nickel
wich seems nice cuase I have it handy


I have welded thick cast aluminum to thin aluminum with great sucsess

its just that I spent a good amount of time preping this and would hate to have to scrap it

I will more than likely do just fine but Im glade to have all the imput I can.wish me luck

with the time I spent on this im not sure I would feel like doing it agian lol

I hear some people stateing 700degpreheat and not to let it go below 500. seems hella hot to work with

[CovertRussian]

When I was going to do it, I read that you want to stick with metals that have similar thermal expansion. Steel is more like cast iron then stainless, thus steel would expand on the same level and cool down, unlike stainless which cools much faster. Though SCH10 might be a bit better.

[Snickers]

309 has higher nickel because it is made for welding stainless non ferrous metals to mild steel. I'm not sure I would try it. Just get some cast iron stick welding electrodes. They are like $20 for a 1lb container. Like 15 rods in one pack which is overkill more than you need

[p10det]

I apreciate all the info. on this im seeing lots of info on the web of people useing said es309L

and apperenlty lots of cast peases they are reparring with ss. I read of something with a mark 4 supra oem turbo manifold haveing ss welded into its cast iron mani

is their mabe a test i can do with the parts I cut out of the mani some welding and inspection to determine whether I will be ok?

we have a spare s14 turbo mani that we have no use for and I have a pulsar gti-r mani on hand but id like to sell that one day

no matter what he wants his mani done tomarrow. his nistune ecu just cam in today and he is shit tickled to get on the dyno

I trust you info as I am glad to listen to people who have done it rather than heard about it. he will buy what ever material needed infact I am almost in need for more argon I have 2 empty tanks so if you have more info on what I can ask the welding suply place about the stick electrodes im all ears

but I would really like to test on some other cast peaces to see whats what before I proceed

now will standered torch be well on preheat and maintian and post heat? given i get it burning as clean as I can? the plan was to slowly heat the mani around the area to be welded but not derectly at it to prevent contamination and check with heat lazer threw the entire prosses to ensure the cast stays hot

I have welded 309L rod to a cast peace with no preheat and the weld bead apered good but yet at the cast peace I was a bit iffy on the cast to 30l contact and I think it apeared to create a very tiney fractur in the weld due to rapid cooling but im not sure if it cracked are i was not looking at it right seemed fiant so this is what pushed me to resurch a bit

im thinking to make at least 2 passes with the tig and set the welder for 150 amps max just incase i feel i have to give it more than 100 amps

I usuallt set a/c around 150-140 and baby the pedal for thin aluminum

but I gues the thery of preheating will result in less amps and less ned to direct the ark more at the cast peace?

[Snickers]

On cast manifolds if pre heated well I rarely have to use 100amps. If you don't preheat enough and use too much amperage the manifold will have a different expansion rate across it and can crack the weld.

I also add a lot of filler rod and NOT just enough to make a puddle. A lot of guys can make the puddle pretty and have a nice bead but no strength to the weld.


Theae guys using the 309 rod, I would be curious to see these parts years later, and 20-50,000 miles later. I have seen some stuff I did 6 years ago and no cracks or issues.


Really the most important part is pre heat well, some post heat and slow cooling.

[p10det]

well I lied I had 308L so off to the welding supply I did however preheat chery red a old s14 j pipe and weld a peace of schedul 10 to it and made 2 passes. looks pretty robust but like you said im unable to know if it will last

[p10det]

well I wish you could have specified the type of electrodes to get I went to the weld suply and they had no 309l they could sell by lb and I picked up stick electrode #275 super

to find out later on the bottom it states not to use on cast iron

im at a loss and I think I have to wing it with the 308L hopefully it lasts for 3 years

[ENO]

good now youl know how to do mine....

[Snickers]

well I wish you could have specified the type of electrodes to get I went to the weld suply and they had no 309l they could sell by lb and I picked up stick electrode #275 super

to find out later on the bottom it states not to use on cast iron

im at a loss and I think I have to wing it with the 308L hopefully it lasts for 3 years

The 308 L will NOT last. It WILL crack. you will just be wasting your time...

get this,

Pinnacle Alloys
ENi-Ci (99)
Part # PP1125NI99E
3/32"
Lot# 60101AS

the ONLY other TIG rod I have had luck welding cast Iron with is 625 Inconel wire... very very expensive but works wonders for doing some thin cast pieces to fill fine cracks ETC.. 625 is high nickel already but is very very expensive

[Snickers]

No offense, dont take this the wrong way, but if you have not welded cast Iron before, you will most likely not do it right the first time. I WOULD NOT just "try" to weld the first time on a manifold with weld EL.

Get a scrap piece of cast Iron, like a stock throw away J pipe, and weld a thick piece of steel to it, then try to hammer it off with it tacked on there well.

Also, DO NOT use 304SS sch10 weld els on cast Iron, they have a much higher rrate of heat expansion and they will eventually force the weld to crack. just use a Mild steel one.

[p10det]

well he forced me to weld to just do it up withe the 308L .

first I tested a old j pipe with preheat and 2 passes and and the weld bead looked beutifull but like you said the pretty weld more are less might not hold up. the weld was supper strong and would bever crack its self but spliting from the bond at the cast is was I would expect.

but with the many I heated the thing to cherry red and tacked it to the peace and welded little by little heating back up to almost red the whole prossessmad 2 passes and what I found is with the metal so hot the weld comes out a more dark collar like when you over heat ss. after the weld ing I reheated pretty hot and emediatly filled it with sand put in a bucket and left it their. he will check on it in the morning .

what I can say is when the cast is good and hot it puddles very easly. If I got the prosess close I understand that their is better filler to be used . hopefully he will get some life out of it .

we still have another mani to try again with better filler but i will only try again if he does all the prep

he told me to do it up he needs the mani on his car tommarow. really I dont think I will offer something like this to someone else unless their willing to take the chance

[p10det]

so fare it is holding up. i set up his car with nistune and z32 maf and DW 810,s and did a base street tune to have it readdy for the dyno tommarow. I think his z32 maf might be going bad but he just texted me and his cluth blew up and put a hole in the bell houseing. so no tunzy for him