Auto to Manual tranny swap problems
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Thread: Auto to Manual tranny swap problems

  1. #1
    Nobody f's with the Jesus Yahnozha's Avatar
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    Auto to Manual tranny swap problems

    After three days of swapping a 5 speed LSD tranny into the 99 G20, Ive run into a bit of a problem. Everything is back together (finally) and here is whats happening, the car is on jack stands at this point with the front wheels off.

    The car starts and it feels like the clutch is not fully engaging. When in neutral, the rotors do not spin. I can put it into first, but even with the clutch pedal pushed in all the way, the rotors begin to spin, hence the clutch is engaging. I cannot put it into any other gears without feeling like its grinding into place.

    Two things come to mind.

    1) When putting the tranny in, there was not a distinct *stab* of the tranny into the clutch. It went in, but not like I have normally felt with other trannys Ive done. Could a miss alingment cause this problem?

    2) This is a hydraulic clutch, I believe that I have gotten all of the air out of the system but it still feels soft to me, keep in mind this is the first hydraulic clutch that I have ever had experinece with. There seems to be no adjustment for the slave cylinder in terms of adjusting the throw.

    Here are the key things down there...Lightened stock flywheel, JWT clutch and PP, new TO bearing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys.
    P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (298K) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere - 01' Pathy 4x4 (140K+)

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  3. #2
    G20 Guru EvilYak's Avatar
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    yeah seems like its not engaging... rebleed and perhaps
    set the adjustment nut on the pedal further in?

    sfg20t's car had that problem initially and i THINK that was
    the fix for it... it wasnt THAT big of a problem

    new/race/drift car - 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Turbo with some stuff
    old car - Silver 2000 Infiniti G20 Turbo with some stuff

    Check my company!!!www.limitlessmotorsports.com

  4. #3
    Nobody f's with the Jesus Yahnozha's Avatar
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    Im rebleeding now, and have the pedal throw at the maximums I can go for now. I may take out that spacer where the slave cylinder is at to give me 1/4" more throw on the clutch...arrg...kinda frustrating.

    Also, did you guys have to pull the AT position sensor in order to trick the ECU into starting? Thats what I had to do.
    P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (298K) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere - 01' Pathy 4x4 (140K+)

  5. #4
    G20 Guru EvilYak's Avatar
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    theres a relay in the engine bay... clutch disable
    we just took a wire and bypassed it right at the relay

    hmm... more suggestions include yeah, taking out that spacer,
    and if that doesnt work.. there IS a spacer that spaces the entire
    tranny out from the engine.. its like a big 1/4" gasket..
    taking that out might make a difference??
    then again, the driveaxles might not fit anymore.. hmm......

    what else what else.. hmm....
    honestly though, that slave cylinder spacer SHOULD do the trick.

    new/race/drift car - 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Turbo with some stuff
    old car - Silver 2000 Infiniti G20 Turbo with some stuff

    Check my company!!!www.limitlessmotorsports.com

  6. #5
    Nobody f's with the Jesus Yahnozha's Avatar
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    Originally posted by EvilYak
    theres a relay in the engine bay... clutch disable
    we just took a wire and bypassed it right at the relay.
    Hum...Ill have to find that relay. But i just pulled the AT position sensor off the tranny and put it back on the harness. It works, but kinda ghetto.

    Originally posted by EvilYak
    honestly though, that slave cylinder spacer SHOULD do the trick.
    Well, that worked I remvoed the spacer and I can get it into all 5 gears, except reverse. Ill have to adjust the shift linkage today to see why Im not able to get the car into reverse. Plus, I think i tightened some of the bushings too tight, the shifting is really tough for some reason.
    P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (298K) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere - 01' Pathy 4x4 (140K+)

  7. #6
    "says here on your chart" P10 WRC's Avatar
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    my shifter is really tough when the tranny is cold. big difference from my old tranny to my lsd tranny.

  8. #7
    GeeTwentyTee
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    Nothing wrong with a little jerkiness in a manual...



    J/K

  9. #8
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    Well, that worked I remvoed the spacer and I can get it into all 5 gears, except reverse
    whered you get the tranny?, i have to let my clutch out real slowly and pull back on the shifter till it pops then i can get it into gear.

  10. #9
    G20 Guru EvilYak's Avatar
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    i HEARD that if you don't line up the clutch/pp assembly right...
    sometimes its a bit stiff and hard to get into gear

    new/race/drift car - 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Turbo with some stuff
    old car - Silver 2000 Infiniti G20 Turbo with some stuff

    Check my company!!!www.limitlessmotorsports.com

  11. #10
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    Do you have a stock shifter or an aftermarket one? If you don't lube the ball enough and/or overtighten it, shifting will be very stiff/notchy. That should loosen up over time though....
    I forget, but you did use all the manual motor mounts and brackets, right? I thought you did...

    Any other updates?
    Justin

  12. #11
    Nobody f's with the Jesus Yahnozha's Avatar
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    Heres the latest!! ITS DONE!!! Marla and I have found some of the problems that I had, and still have to trouble shoot some electrical issues at hand.

    1) The unability to get into reverse was just adjusting the linkages so the throw would reach all gears. I also noticed a missing bushing from one of the link arms, i replaced that with a spare that I fortunatly had .

    2) The notcheness is from an aftermarket shifter, I loosened that up a bit and it feels much smoother, this is also due to the adjustment of the arms.

    3) I did take out the spacer on the slave cylinder and the clutch now fully disengages. I think the problem was also due to the lightened flywheel, they took off a fair amount of material off the face of the flywheel, therefore putting the whole clutch/pp assembly closer to the engine and the throw out bearing couldnt reach that far.

    Its all in and back together again, so here are some of the minor electrical issues.

    1) My ABS light is on, maybe resetting the ECU will fix that, or something else is triggering it.

    2) I have to rewire the clutch relay so I can take out the AT position sensor so the car starts without it.

    3) Figure out a way to get my back up lights working again. That should be fun.

    Justin: Ill need to order a new crank position sensor?, the one that fits in the transmission bell housing reading the teeth on the flywheel. The one that was on there, most of the plastic was broken so I just have the harness taped on there. Maybe I can pick that up when I get down there.

    And, yes I used the manual mounts that I got from you, the AT mounts just would not have worked.

    HOLY SHIT!!! the difference between a 5 speed and AT is like night and day. A lesson to be learned here...buy a 5 speed off the get go.
    P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (298K) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere - 01' Pathy 4x4 (140K+)

  13. #12
    G20 Guru EvilYak's Avatar
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    oh hey bro if you figure out that whole reverse light thingy can ya post it up? i been waay too lazy so sfg20t's been running with his reverse lights disconnected

    new/race/drift car - 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Turbo with some stuff
    old car - Silver 2000 Infiniti G20 Turbo with some stuff

    Check my company!!!www.limitlessmotorsports.com

  14. #13
    G20 Member boostedgunit's Avatar
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    i did it already, it should be simple to do... but i did it on a p10 not a p11 so i dont know if it's setup the same way...

  15. #14
    G20 Guru Garrett's Avatar
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    Maybe you can post a 'how to' eh?

    --Garrett
    To strive; to seek; to find, but not to yield.

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  16. #15
    G20 Guru md_emory's Avatar
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    Yo p@, I wanna do this manual trany swap now - how long is it suppose to take ( this is my only car now - brother blew head gasket in my sable )?

  17. #16
    G20 Member boostedgunit's Avatar
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    OK here's what i did... this was on the AINSLEY'S G ride..
    on the neutral safety switch ( that switch where the automatic shifter cable was hookedup to... there's about 5 or 6 wires i dont remember...
    you are only going to use two thoes wires
    1. using a test light see which wire has power (12v) when the ignition is turned on...
    2. the next wire to find is the one that goes to the reverse lights... what i did was take the reverse light socket out and looked at the wire colour...
    3. there should be a wire in the n/s/s which is the same colour as the one in the reverse light socket...
    4. locate the reverse light switch on the tranny, this should be the one with nothing connected to it... and it should have two wires on it...
    5. basically now what you do is connect the power wire and the reverse light wire to thoes two wires on the reverse light switch...

    it doesn't matter which one is connectet to which...

  18. #17
    Nobody f's with the Jesus Yahnozha's Avatar
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    Originally posted by AMDGOD
    Maybe you can post a 'how to' eh?
    eh? You must be Canadian... ...damn Canadians... HAHA

    Yeah, Ill do a write up but it will take me some time to do it.

    Originally posted by md_emory
    Yo p@, I wanna do this manual trany swap now - how long is it suppose to take ( this is my only car now - brother blew head gasket in my sable )?
    It tooke me three days (6-8hrs/day) to do the swap, but I also ran into some things I need to fix as well, like bunged up threads and the like. I also had help from the g/f which came in handy. Plus youll need some stuff to make it easier on you, like a tranny jack, motor hoist, and a 36mm socket for the axle nuts. Not to mention an air impact gun, that made taking things off so much easier. BTW, I think I have everything to do the swap for a P10 but the tranny is non-LSD, minus little things.

    Originally posted by boostedgunit
    OK here's what i did... this was on the AINSLEY'S G ride.
    SWEET, Ill get on that when I have the time.
    P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (298K) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere - 01' Pathy 4x4 (140K+)

  19. #18
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    I´m glad that everything is working...

  20. #19
    G20 Guru md_emory's Avatar
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    I think it would cost less if I just find a P10 with a manual trans and bad engine...

  21. #20
    uruG 02G Gealousy's Avatar
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    Damn Pat! You are the MAN of the month for sure! Damn dude... sounds like it was pretty tough, a lot tougher then people have made it out to be.... Everyone with the exception of Ainsley makes it sound like the fukker just dropped in, no sweat... but now I see diffrently... It does make the car feel like a totally diffrent car, doesn't it? I've had my share of hours in an auto P11 and I know the diffrence for sure... makes the 2.0 feel a LOT faster IMO... Congrats bro! Job well done...

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