My experience
Thanks to the previous posters. I swapped both of my ’96 G20 Std’s 5spd, 152k, axles this weekend and would like to give my overview.
I would consider the FSM method the “easy” way though it leaves out a few steps. Lift the car onto jack stands and remove the tire(s), duh. Remove the plastic shield(s)*. Drain the transmission fluid, clean the plug, and screw plug back in. The drain plug is visible from the driver’s side and fits a ½” socket. Remove the axle nut while the brakes are on so you can use them to keep the axle stationary. Remove the brake piston and caliper assemblies and hang on the suspension above. Remove the rotor. Disconnect the tie rod (steering arm), cotter pin and 18mm nut, from the knuckle. Using the hammer tap the tie rod free of the knuckle. Remove the top two bolts for the ABS sensor wire, it the only wire going to the wheel hub at his point, to create slack on the wire. Use a 3/16 flat screwdriver and light hammer to dislodge the base of the kingpin cap, the domed cover. After prying the cap off remove the kingpin nut, 17mm. Hammer the end of the axle a couple of time to loosen it. Pull down on the wheel hub and then hammer on the A suspension arm, bottom one, to free the kingpin bolt from the top. Now you should be able to swing the wheel hub out and remove the end of the axle from the splines. For the driver side axle (short axle) push in a little and then pull back really hard to pop the axle out (look at where it goes into the tranny first so you can tell when the new one is seated all the way). For the passenger side (long axle), you will need to remove the three bolts that are right above the exhaust downpipe, 10mm?, then the axle will easily slide out. Clean off debris around the seals on the tranny if necessary. For both axles make sure the splines are lined up before inserting into the tranny. For the driver’s side screw the axle nut onto the threads, but don’t let the threads come through the other side, and then hit it with the mini sledge while holding the axle level with your other hand. It is in when it will just fit into the wheel hub and it should look the same as the old one at the tranny. The passenger side slides in and needs to be secured by the three bolts to hold it in place. Insert the axle into the wheel hub and put the washer and axle nut back on, hand tighten. Slide kingpin bolt into place (use the floor jack if necessary to lift the A arm), and put the washer and nut back on. Reconnect the ABS wire. Reconnect the tie rod with the nut and cotter pin. Slide the rotor back on. Inspect your brake pads and then reinstall the brakes. You may want to compress the piston slightly to make it easier to install the brakes. Tighten the axle nut. Refill the transmission and replace plug. The fill plug is on the front and fits something bigger than a 3/8”, but smaller than a ½” (I used a 3/8 to unscrew it anyway). Install tires and lower car. Now take a short easy drive to test the install before taking it to the track for a top speed run.
*My car no longer has the wheel well shields. Driver’s side was lost by the shop that did my clutch along with a few other mishaps! Pass side was loose and a heavy snow stole it before I could reattach it.
Tips
Get the transmission gear oil ahead of time. It needs to be GL-4 oil. If you have to get it local,
Napa carries an 85W-90 which is probably good down to 40°. I would recommend draining the tranny as opposed to draining what comes out from the axles. The drain plug is magnetic so you can clean off ferrous pieces of metal plus my fluid was almost black at the bottom and got lighter the more that drained (the last few ounces were actually translucent yellow like the new stuff).
I would recommend removing the tires the night before and spaying penetrating oil and the axle nut, center of the rotor, and in the two threaded holes of the rotor.
First of all I ran into trouble with getting the axle nut off. An 18” breaker bar with a 12” cheater couldn’t break them loose. A 100psi impact driver got it done in 60 seconds for each side.
You should be able to pop off the rotor by threading two bolts into the holes on the rotor and turning each one a little at a time. You can also
do this, but make sure you have a good piece of wood to protect the rotor.
I attacked one of the 3 bolts for the passenger axle from the driver’s side using several extension pieces, (1) 6” and (2) 3”.
Harbor Freight is a good source for decent Mechanics Gloves, protective eyeglasses, and earplugs.
The tranny fluid is like maple syrup, so use a large hose. I think you can fit a 5/8" outer dia hose into the fill plug.
Spread out newspaper to catch the debris and grease that will drop and wear your garage/yard/painting clothes.
I have a magnetic LED shoplight that I can position just about anywhere. It was very handy.