No c-clip on pass side.
Loren, he already took out the 3 bolts.
No c-clip on pass side.
Loren, he already took out the 3 bolts.
Did the axle portion of the carrier assembly get split after the 3 12mm bolts were removed? It can rust in there and be pretty difficult to get apart, it's a tapered fit. Need to get in there with a hammer and screw driver and separate the axle flange from the carrier bracket.
The axle should then just slip out of the trans- no circlip on that side iirc.
Ok, at this point I can certify that removing the axle flange from the carrier bracket is the most difficult part of this entire operation. Seriously, It is so sandwiched together that I'm having a difficult time determining where the flange ends and bracket begins. I've been hammering a flathead with a rubber hammer into what I thought was the lip between the two for a while now and have only made some scuff marks.
Should I be hitting the axle through the bracket with a long stick and sledge or something?
What about tying a rope to one end of the axle and forcefully pulling it away?
I put some penetrating oil on it and will give it another shot with the hammer and flathead again in an hour or so. Already broke one screwdriver in half. I was hoping the bracket would come off the engine with a bolt or something, but I can't seem to find any such thing.
is this going to end up like your engine repairs? please put the hammer away, sir! SIR! PUT THE HAMMER DOWN!
sorry buddy, i don't mean to mock you too much, but you're going to mess more stuff up doing all that unnecessary whacking! take a break!
i've done the passenger axle at least twice, and just got done doing the job again. i've never had to hit anything to get it out. you undo three 12mm bolts on the carrier bracket, and if the outer end of the axle is clear of the spindle (see original post), then the axle just pulls easily out of there. i'm guessing that either there's still a bolt holding it, or you've got an issue with rust/corrosion starting to freeze parts together. the parts are really not the least bit difficult to separate normally, i never even thought to consider it a step in the process before.
if you are sure there aren't any bolts on, and you must pry them apart, try a more delicate approach. tap a razorblade in there (wear gloves) to just barely make a separation, then try some kind of very thin wedge, then put a trim stick in the gap and use leverage instead of pounding. if you don't have a trim stick already, get one because it is an incredibly useful tool beyond its intended purpose of pulling off door cards and things.
oh and on the original topic, i definitely recommend option B, plus undo the swaybar endlink also- this is key. then watch out for the ABS wheel speed sensor. the wire wraps around the vertical link and should probably be unscrewed to prevent stressing it.
LoLz! I certainly hope this ends a little better than the engine repair did as well. The shaft of the axle is capable of sliding in and out about half an inch, but something seems to be holding it in and I'm pretty sure the bracket has rusted onto the flange.
Judging from the replacement, there are no bolts on the transmission itself so the only thing I'm left with is the rust. Unfortunately the car is so close to the ground I really have very little room to operate, even on the jack.
Quick question: I bought a replacement axle from RockAuto.com. It is an A-1 Cardone Select P/N#666057 (w/ ABS, w/o LSD) which I'm pretty sure goes with my transmission because the label said RE4F03A in the engine bay, and it's just a plain G20, AND ther's no big bellhousing bulge that I could see to indicate it being LSD. But the axle I got does not have the little rubber damper between the boots on the shaft. Is that ok?
Autozone rents a slide hammer attachment that slides in behind the axle and the trans. A few whacks should do the trick provided there is nothing bolted on still.
Most aftermarket axles don't have the dampener you speak of. Not ideal but it will work. Some report vibrations without them but I have had no issues.
So I am continuing in my attempt to remove the axle from the transmission. I have everything disassembled, but the axle seems stuck in the carrier bracket.
I used penetrating oil, used some rust remover, and continued the hammering with the screwdriver. The progress has been terribly slow, but on the plus side I have three newly resized flathead screwdrivers! I will go to the store tomorrow to get the slide hammer, and trim stick, and see how that works before I end up going through all my flatheads.
I have photos for the amusement of all: http://s1152.photobucket.com/albums/p483/mrashidi/
I have pulled so hard on the axle that both the outer CV, and inner CV joints have come apart. At this point I could just say "screw it!" and rebuild the old axle by regreasing and repacking the bearings and putting some new boots on. Plus I'd get to keep the dampener on the axle! Any suggestions?
I was about to say, you're prying in the wrong spot.
2002 P11 KH3
Cusco, Tein, KYB, 5Zigen, Apex-i, GReddy
Alpine, Hertz, JL Audio
Axle removed! It only cost me three flatheads, and four days with a hammer!
I did buy the Matic-D ATF oil, however hardly anything came out so I wont bother replacing anything. I have the whole front end jacked up. I will consider doing a tranny flush when I get back from Kentucky next week.
Now to get this new axle in! Anybody have any good lubrication recommendations so that if I wanted to remove this axle say 10 years from now that it would slide out easier and not be as rusted?
Quick tip for anybody reading this thread thinking to do axle removal of the longer half: Hammer and pry evenly on two opposite sides of where the flange and bracket meet, and it will eventually come out slowly.
you can unbolt the bracket from the back of the engine and work on it outside the car. also i've had luck with with an air chisel. you can use it to rotate the flange on the axle from the bracket which makes it easier to seperate.
Unfortunately the new axles will not last 10 years. You could throw some grease in there but I don't think it will make much difference with the conditions it sees.
anti-seize or maybe some disc brake lube
So I started up the car, and it makes a new noise now when accelerating in the lower RPM range. It sounds explicitly like the sound that the thin metal brake shield makes when it vibrates. Its not terrible, but it is noticeable, and most people would just live with it, but I wanted to restore the car as best I could. Anyone know what that could be? Too little lubrication? Too much lubrication? Maybe the car has developed arthritis? I'm not sure if it happened because of the axle replacement or not, since I did also remove the driver side strut and bolt it back in.
Oh, and the engine is leaking small amounts of oil again once it heats up. Back to the other thread I made a while ago!
Check brake debris shield.
or the part of the axle shield by the bracket. i've seen it scrape before. just pry it out with a screwdriver