VE has landed! My 94 P10 VE swap thread
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Thread: VE has landed! My 94 P10 VE swap thread

  2. Mar 24, 07, 06:59 PM #1
    El Gabito
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    VE has landed! My 94 P10 VE swap thread

    Alright guys, after many years of patiently waiting, pretty much not modding my vehicle at all, there is a VE sitting in my garage right now. I have to finish cleaning out the garage, pull the G20 in there and get started!

    I'm sure to have questions, so I'll use this as my central thread for everything. I'm going to be pretty much on my own on this swap (central indiana is pretty devoid of SR20 enthusiasts - those that are here are not available) - so bear with me; Ben Davis helped me on everything else I have done in the past.

    I'll have a couple pics up later... today has been much slower than I had anticipated. I was working by myself most of the day, and this being my first swap on my own, it's just slow going.

    First major problem... the lower screw on the FPR is stripped out... any good ideas to get it out? I'm going to try some pliers here in a minute, but the top one was in there pretty good.

    The axle nuts are NOT coming off, so I'm going to have to get an impact tomorrow... harbor freight closed 5 mins before we got there tonight, so I'm pretty much on hold for tonight.

    Any suggestions on everything I can do w/ the axles still attached?

    Official thread:
    http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=192539
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  4. Mar 24, 07, 07:10 PM #2
    Cesarin_se-r
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    congrats Kyle, & dont forget to take pics too...

    I'll be following-up on this thread coz im also thinkin of swapping in a VE in my p10t, later on down the line...
    ->My WTB thread for El Chacal<-

    SR20DEEP CA César D
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  5. Mar 24, 07, 07:47 PM #3
    El Gabito
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sco0terzsl
    AWESOME! It always excites me when I see some big names from sr20forum come over to the gnet crowd. It's selfish really, since I know you guy's know how to build nice cars, that gives me something new to look at. Maybe people are starting to think twice about the g20 being a heavy, slow, waste of metal. Granted, it is heavy and slow, but it makes up for it in ride quality (personally I love the longer wheel base), and comfort appeal. Not to mention the power potential is exactly the same as the Sentra. However, I would own a classic SER in a heartbeat.

    El Gabito- Like I said over on sr20forum. I'm 90% sure you use the g20t axles. I haven't done this personally because I'm waiting until my open diff p10 tranny blows. It's not a matter of if, just a matter of when it goes.
    PB plus a lot of pressure with a phillips screwdriver and I got that screw out.
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  6. Mar 24, 07, 09:30 PM #4
    El Gabito
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    VE after arrival


    So it begins...



    My daughter helping out:
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  7. Mar 24, 07, 09:33 PM #5
    Cesarin_se-r
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    ^^kewl pics, especially the last one...
    ->My WTB thread for El Chacal<-

    SR20DEEP CA César D
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  8. Mar 25, 07, 02:51 AM #6
    StangG20
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    nice man. where'd you get your motor? looks good. make sure to keep us posted

    17" Maxxim Harpoon, GR-2 + Tein S, Spec stage 3 clutch, Zex 55-75hp dry shot, carbon fiber trunk, cf hood, cf mirror covers, cf b-pillars, Primera eGT bumpers + skirts, Eastbear grill, Catz hi/lo hids, euro tails, Carbing rstb, NissDataScan, 20% tints, g20T interior, Alpine CDA-9853, Alpine interiors, Directed 1500d amp, 2 - 10" Memphis audio subs, RF Punch 250.2
    In the works: sr20ve + lsd tranny, ACT hdss, Fidanza
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  9. Mar 25, 07, 06:53 AM #7
    El Gabito
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    I got it from NYBE.
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  10. Mar 25, 07, 11:45 AM #8
    InfinitiTuned
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    what side of indy do live on?
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  11. Mar 25, 07, 12:48 PM #9
    El Gabito
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    Fishers... I didn't know there were any other indy guys here.

    Under VC pics... This uses the same gasket as any other DE doesn't it?



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  12. Mar 25, 07, 02:09 PM #10
    foreverzero89
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    clean under VC! looks good!
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  13. Mar 25, 07, 05:20 PM #11
    Ugly
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    sweet!!!
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  14. Mar 26, 07, 03:11 AM #12
    primera GT germany
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    nice pics...

    -chris-
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  15. Mar 26, 07, 08:54 AM #13
    UncleShasta
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    subscribing
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  16. Mar 30, 07, 06:17 PM #14
    El Gabito
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    Ok, first question to those of you that have done any sort of swap. This is my first time working on a G20... What's the least work to get the axles out of the hub? On B13's it seems like I just disconnected the strut from the knuckle.
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  17. Mar 30, 07, 06:42 PM #15
    G20-Budo
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    Hey El Gabito.. I too am doing a VE swap.. (this weekend!) into my 96' G20.

    As for getting the axles out.. remove the bolt at where the shock goes through the up right looking piece (part of the multilink), it's a 17mm socket I believe.

    Then remove the bolt at the top of that beam/arm.. (also 17mm socket, it's the one that connects the outer part of the upper arm to the beam). Then remove the tie rod from the hub and you should have no issues getting it out from there. Just watch how much pressure you put on the brake line.. you might want to disconnect the caliper?

    Good luck on your swap!!
    -Kyle
    96' G20(VE)
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  18. Mar 30, 07, 10:23 PM #16
    SHigSpeed
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    For axles, I undo the lower balljoint and turn the steering all the way over and that gives you enough room to groove. None of that taking the suspension apart crap! :^) <jk>

    You do have to undo the swaybar link also IIRC.

    -SHig
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  19. Mar 30, 07, 11:48 PM #17
    G20-Budo
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHigSpeed
    For axles, I undo the lower balljoint and turn the steering all the way over and that gives you enough room to groove. None of that taking the suspension apart crap! :^) <jk>

    You do have to undo the swaybar link also IIRC.
    This is a matter of opinion....and.. in my opinion it's easier to remove the pieces I suggested. If you remove the 22mm nut for the balljoint, you usually need to either bang the crap out of that area or use a splitter fork of some kind.

    If you've got air tools, it's pretty easy and quick to remove the parts I commented on.

    Oh. and Scott, you were right about the swaybar end link..
    -Kyle
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  20. Mar 31, 07, 08:07 AM #18
    El Gabito
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    I have an electric 1/2 impact, but everything else is done by hand

    Anybody have any tips for the right rear of the motor (PS area)? It's super tight in there. I'm planning on leaving the PS pump hooked up so I don't have to drain the system. But when I look down there it seems like all I see is a tangle of hoses and wire. And gunk, lots of gunk.
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  21. Mar 31, 07, 09:58 AM #19
    El Gabito
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    Broke the freakin sway bar endlink on the pas side.... it just snapped when I was trying to break the nut loose. PB and all.
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  22. Mar 31, 07, 10:14 AM #20
    SHigSpeed
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    Here's the secret trick to get the balljoint free. Kinda hard to describe, but easy to do.

    Take a 14 mm. open end wrench and (after removing the cotter pin on the balljoint stud) "split" the stud with it, between the nut and the axle where the ABS notches are. Then, put a quarter or some other metal plate over the top of the crow's foot to reduce the likelihood of damaging these notches.

    Then, loosen the BJ nut (heh...) and then use that action to press against the wrench and stack of stuff against the axle, pushing the stud down. It may take some torque to break the balljoint free, and it usually makes a scary noise when it does go but no damage to the boots. Also, if you're REALLY wrenching on it and it still doesn't budge, a whack or two with a BMFH (on the part of the knuckle where the taper goes through) will often shock the balljoint free.

    Enjoy!

    -SHig
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