How To: Replace Wiper Pivots (P10)
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Thread: How To: Replace Wiper Pivots (P10)

  1. #1
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    How To: Replace Wiper Pivots (P10)

    Owning a G20 means eventually your windshield wipers will become noisy, squeaky or squealing contraptions. The noise is from bad wiper pivot bushings not bad wiper blades. Though, you might need new wiper blades too.

    Several people have offered their advice and experience repairing or replacing the wiper arm pivots. I’ll include that here along with some pictures that I haven’t seen elsewhere.

    There are two challenges to this job:
    1. The nuts that hold the pivots are often rusted, so you will destroy the bolts when removing the pivots. This is why you are best served by having new replacements to install.

    2. The wiper arms are often stuck to the pivot shaft.
    WARNING: Be careful removing the wiper arms. The wiper arms can be tough to remove and prying them off will almost certainly result in a broken windshield. Guess how I know this.

    New wiper arm pivots are available from your favorite on line Infiniti parts dealer for $30 – 35 each. This is the best choice, but I’ll also show you how to disassemble the pivots, clean and re-grease. I suspect that if you use a silicone based grease (Wagner disc brake grease or similar) they will last a long time without need for replacement. I suggest silicone grease because it will not deteriorate the plastic bushing like petroleum based grease.

    1. Remove plastic cap from wiper arm pivot. Using a tiny screwdriver pop the plastic cap from the wiper arm connection. There is a notch in the wiper arm to make this easy.


    2. Unscrew the nut from the pivot arm. IIRC it is a 12mm nut.

    3. Remove the wiper arms. Remember my warning above. Best advice from earlier posts is to use one hand to press the wiper arm down at the hinge (a few inches from the pivot) while pulling up with your other hand from the pivot. This worked great on one side, but not on the other. DO NOT PRY WITH A SCREW DRIVER OR PRY BAR. If you can be patient spray with PB Blaster and wait. You might get lucky. Applying heat with a torch would probably work, but is problematic because you will melt the plastic vent cover. If the arm does not pop off get a small two arm gear puller or battery post puller. K-D tools makes a fine version of both these tools. Both tools are stocked at Sears and cost about $20. See here and here . The gear puller especially is handy for many other jobs, so worth the investment.

    4. The plastic vent cover is held by two Phillips head screws and several trim pressure pins. Remove the screws and then gently pull the plastic cover.


    5. Before you remove the pivots you can disconnect the wiper linkage shafts. The linkage shafts are metal with plastic sockets that are pressed onto metal balls (ball and socket joint) at the pivots. These should pop apart with a pull or a little prying with your hand. Remove one linkage shaft that connects the right arm to the left arm. Just remove at the right (center) pivot the connection from the shaft that comes from the wiper motor. This way you can’t confuse the linkage shafts when you go to install.



    6. There are three nuts that hold the pivot. Mine were so rusted I had to cut two bolts on one pivot and one on the other. A Dremel or similar tool with a small metal cut off wheel works great. This is also why you should have either new or salvage yard pivots ready to replace yours.

    7. Reverse the directions if you have new pivots to install.

    Assuming you did not destroy the pivots you can take them apart, clean and re-grease.

    There is a snap ring on top that you will struggle with. I found a right angle pick could get behind the ring and then you could carefully pry with a screwdriver to move it up and off the shaft without deforming it too badly.
    Here is the wiper pivot disassembled. Washers etc. are in the order they line up on the pivot shaft.



    Use silicone grease on the pivot shaft (Wagner silicone caliper brake grease or similar).

    Pivot assembled:


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  3. #2
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    how do u get the screws out of the pivot bushing or the mounting bolts??????

    This is driving me crazy!!!

  4. #3
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    Those mounting bolts are studs that are not meant to be removed. To be sure we are talking about the same thing: mounting bolts = studs = the small bolts that are through the white plastic part of the pivot and hold the pivot to a metal mounting bracket covered by plastic trim

    Because the nuts on these studs are often rust welded you'll strip the stud in the plastic and the whole thing will spin. If this happens you'll need to cut the mounting bolt or stud so you can remove the pivot. Your next step will be to replace the whole pivot assembly with a new or salvage yard part (assuming you have a u pull r parts kinda place nearby).

    Good luck.

  5. #4
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    damn.... i was hoping u wouldn't say that. I was able to remove 1 of the 3 bolts, but the other 2 just spin (rust welded).... the squeal of the wiper is driving me crazy tho... I might just try to take everything apart again and WD-40 it all over

  6. #5
    Full-Time Chiller . . . . Black95G20's Avatar
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    Good write up. I had the squeaky squeak about a year ago and i just sprayed them with wd40 without removing anything and it got rid of the noise. I did a solid stream on each one for about 30 seconds to make sure it found it's way down there, lol.
    May 2008 MOTM

    Check out my T-Shirt company, funny/quality shirts: www.ratfinktshirts.com Code jesp414 saves you $3 per shirt.

  7. #6
    De La Code Blackwater32's Avatar
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    My wipers are useless....I don't really care either. Arizona FTW!

    AZ 1/2 Race G20'S_TEAM NIZMO_AZG'Z


  8. #7
    G20 Member CarlQB's Avatar
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    You might want to look at this thread, I managed to grease my noisy wipers without taking the pivots out:

    http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66626

    Also, according to my local auto glass repair shop, the easiest way to remove wiper arms off the pivots is by heating them with a propane torch. That's what they do all the time with stubborn arms. However, one need to be careful not to heat the glass or it will break right away. Put a few wet rags around the arm to protect the glass and plastic around it, then heat the base of the arm with a torch at a very low setting. The arm is made out of aluminium, wich expands a lot with heat, and after a minute or two the arm should be easy to pull off. This way you don't risk breaking the arm, and the heat is not high enough to damage the black paint on the arm.

    Carl

  9. #8
    T3h Sexy Beast trbobrk's Avatar
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    I think all the problems come from living in saltland. When I undo the nut holding the wiper arm off, I lift the wiper arm up and when it is in the upright position it just falls right off the shaft.

  10. #9
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    When I order the part from the dealership do I get just the bushing or do I get the whole pivot assembly? I notice them tiny bolts are spinning so I would have to cut them off does that affect me if I purchase the bushing thing?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dytrdr1028 View Post
    When I order the part from the dealership do I get just the bushing or do I get the whole pivot assembly? I notice them tiny bolts are spinning so I would have to cut them off does that affect me if I purchase the bushing thing?
    Unfortunately, you can only order the whole pivot assembly.

  12. #11
    G20 Senior Member
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    Exactly - you get the whole pivot assembly. However you don't get new nuts so you may have to go to a hardware store and get new nuts if you end up cutting the studs from your old pivot assembly. I've got a couple of Ace hardware stores near me that carry metric fasteners.

  13. #12
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    couldnt i order the nuts with the assembly?

  14. #13
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    You could try to order nuts for the pivot assembly from Infiniti. I can only say the pivots do not include nuts. And, the nuts are not special, just metric - I think 6mm and whatever standard thread pitch is for that size.

  15. #14
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    i actually have a P11. It seems and looks the same setup to me. So i should have no problem using the same instructions? Only my driver side is broken should i have to replace the passenger side also?

  16. #15
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    Don't fix what isn't broken. These pivots are probably same on many vehicles. I know for certain they are interchangeable with Nissan Sentra over same years for P10.

  17. #16
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    Ok. its been starting to snow and rain a lot lately. So i purchased a new pivot-wiper. Part Number 28860-3J100. I paid 31.60. I went to ace hardware and tried a bunch of Nuts. I ended up getting the 1/4-28 fine thread in brass. Will attempt this project this weekend. Last time i tried to take it apart just to take a look i ended up cutting my finger on the edge of the windshield and that was the end of it.

  18. #17
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    Good luck on this attempt. Let us know how the repair turns out.

    I'm certain the right nuts are metric. But, if 1/4 -28 threads on the studs then go for it.

    My last bit of advice: If you find one of the wiper arms stuck to the pivot first press down on the hinge near the pivot and if that doesn't work apply some heat to the wiper arm close to the pivot shaft (where the big nut came off). It doesn't take much since the wiper arm is aluminum. One of those little butane solder gun / torch would be perfect for applying some pinpoint heat without melting the plastic cover or worse, breaking the windshield.

    Refer to advice given by CarlQB in post 7 above.
    Last edited by davemac; Dec 12, 08 at 12:10 AM.

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemac View Post
    Good luck on this attempt. Let us know how the repair turns out.

    I'm certain the right nuts are metric. But, if 1/4 -28 threads on the studs then go for it.

    My last bit of advice: If you find one of the wiper arms stuck to the pivot first press down on the hinge near the pivot and if that doesn't work apply some heat to the wiper arm close to the pivot shaft (where the big nut came off). It doesn't take much since the wiper arm is aluminum. One of those little butane solder gun / torch would be perfect for applying some pinpoint heat without melting the plastic cover or worse, breaking the windshield.

    Refer to advice given by CarlQB in post 7 above.

    You were right. I had the Wrong Size Nuts.

    I had a really hard time removing the pivot. The Bolts keep spinning because the plastic that holds the bolts broke. and the nuts were rusted on to the studs.

    The best advice for this job is to get a dremel and cut the nuts off. I drilled one of the nuts off and the other my friend just F$^$^$ ripped it out of my poor car :'(.

    After going to ACE hardware twice for washers to cover the big holes. The nuts i original purchased didn't tighten down. (Plus the washers were thick!) Lucky my friend found some Volvo license plate nuts that work perfectly. I guess they are 10mm thread. And nut size. (I work at a Used Car Lot hehe)

    I will have pictures of the aftermath tomorrow

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemac View Post
    Don't fix what isn't broken. These pivots are probably same on many vehicles. I know for certain they are interchangeable with Nissan Sentra over same years for P10.
    Can anybody confirm this or at least confirm that 1995 Sentra pivots work with a 1995 G20? I noticed the Sentra pivots on Infiniti Parts USA are 91-94 (not much cheaper than G20) and 95-99 (very cheap! ).

  21. #20
    G20 Senior Member
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    My advice would be to order parts for your car. Occassionally parts from a sister vehicle will work, but I can't confirm a 95 sentra pivots will work for a 95 G20 - only that a 94 Sentra pivots worked in my 93 G20.

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