I agree M1 is overated and overpriced. That's why I run the walmart synthetic. I noticed no difference in mileage or performance. Maybe it's not as good but I sure can't tell. I think most oil is overated. I've seen cars run 200+k miles on dino oil all the time. Just stay on top of your oil changes people.
I don't own a G20, but if I did, it would be a p11. Stay sexy my friends.
Its only the German made Castrol that stands out from the rest because it is actually a PAO base stock
fyi I run Castrol dino, but calling Mobil one bs is pretty BS. If hand-built AMG motors call for this oil, I think it should be good enough for most cars on the road. It may be overpriced and no longer a "true synthetic", but it's still a good oil, just like GTX, or GC or even wal mart stuff.
If you stick with normal change intervals, and don't race the car (consistent high rpms), any brand name oil is fine. mobil, castrol, pennzoil, purple urple, whatever
It seems that maybe using M1 is a midway (albeit rather pricey) from dino and syn. After this M1 o/c then I can upgrade yet again to a true synthetic. I'm at 75,*** miles, so although I don't think I NEED to run a true syn, I don't think it would hurt to start putting in a little bit higher quality oil.
I'm not saying its crap. I'm just saying its no where near deserving the reputation it has because it falls way short of what its supposed to be
Interesting discussion. I'm not sure if there is much functional difference among quality synthetics. I have a 1992 G20, 5 spd I purchased with 57,000 miles. I immediately switched to Mobil 1. I now have 242,000 miles. The engine has been flawless; runs and sounds like new. I get around 29-30 mpg in daily driving and have gotten 40+ mpg on several road trips. Costco sells Mobil 1 at a "reasonable" price. I have used Mobil 1 in various vehicles, including my current Ford F150. There may be a better oil out there, but it would take a pretty persuasive argument to get me to switch.
Exactly thats what I'm saying. On a well taken care of daily driver thats not seeing insane track abuse its not really gonna make a difference whether you use Castrol GTX or Mobil, so the persuasive argument would really be why pay more for something thats not making any difference? How about buy regular GTX and 1/3 the price of Mobil
Good points, but here is my perspective. First, when you say regular GTX, I assume you mean the non-synthetic. People have different beliefs and habits about oil changes. When I used non-synthetic, I changed oil about every 3k; with Mobil 1 I change it about every 6k. Claims have been made for gas mileage improvements due to reduced friction. I can't verify this, but a friend of mine who tracked his mileage since new claims he has documented the difference have I convinced him to switch to Mobil 1. This cuts the cost more than in half (more because I buy one oil filter in 6k instead of two). Is 3k too often or 6k not often enough, who knows? I don't have data to prove either. My Subaru owner's manual says to change oil every 7.5k; I think that is too long, so I replace the Mobil 1 every 6k. However, I have seen lab data showing the superior lubricating qualities of synthetics as measured, not by the content, but by observed wear on bench run engines. The ability of synthetics to flow in cold weather significantly, I believe, reduces engine wear in cold-weather starts when a disproportionate amount of wear occurs. I also believes this reduces the load on the starter in cold weather. Synthetics also handles heat much better and are less suceptible to heat induced breakdown.
Cases don't prove points, but I've been using Mobil 1 exclusively for many years and my experience has been very good. As I noted in my earlier post, I have 242k on my G20. It has good compression, burns virtually no oil and gives no indication I'm coming up on valve jobs, burned bearings, etc. So, in my case at least, the relatively marginal difference between changing GTX and a filter every 3k and changing Mobil 1 and a filter every 6k is well worth the relatively small difference in cost (not to mention my time and labor). Racing or abusive driving are not the only reasons to use synthetics. I'll take logevity and reduced repairs with normal driving.
I believe what your seeing in your Subaru manual is the SERVICE interval, not the OIL CHANGE. Hell I dont even like going by any owners manual because its funny, what they put in the manual isnt even what the standard at the dealer is. I'm also not sure what year your Subaru is, but now a days Honda Nissan and Toyota have check lists in the manuals that we get to sign off on for customers. Let me put it this way. At 3750 miles you get an OIL CHANGE, basic stuff, just change the oil and filter. At 7500 you get a SERVICE which is a bit more involved. And it alternates like this
3750 oil change
7500 minor service
11250 oil change
15000 Intermediate service
18750 oil change
22500 minor service
26250 oil change
30000 Major service
Now back to the case on longevity. How many customers do I have with 200+ miles on their cars that have only ever had GTX in their cars and have never had any engine repairs other than servicing needed? And with a statement like "I have seen lab data showing the superior lubricating qualities of synthetics as measured, not by the content, but by observed wear on bench run engines." did you even look over the data at the beginning? I'm not calling you stupid or anythign, I just dont knwo if you did or just added to the end of the thread, because most those analysis's show a virgin and used sample, which a used sample indicates what the oil is doing to the engine and vice versa.
And once again, like i've said so many times, Mobil 1 isnt a BAD oil. Certainly not, but it aint no real synthetic. The reason why is also listed previously in this thread. It'll get the job and keep your car running good for a long time........ just like cheaper Castrol GTX or even the Wal Mart special the other guy uses.
But i'm a big hypocrite because I use uber expensive Eneos in mine, lol
Where's the best place to get Amsoil?
Well, I guess I dodged the bullet on that one - you think I may not be stupid. To be fair, Grimsta, it isn't the owners manual it is the warranty and maintenance booklet. Good catch. However, I learned to read over 50 years ago. So, if you want to practice your reading, here is the oil change schedule from Subaru's web site for the 2002 OUTBACK SPORT.
Vehicle: 2002 OUTBACK SPORT WAGON
This is the Manufacturer's Recommended Maintenance Schedule as outlined in your Subaru Warranty and Maintenance Booklet. This schedule has been designed by the manufacturer to provide you with the minimum service intervals that you need to follow to ensure the safe and efficient operation of your Subaru.
Depending on road, weather and general driving conditions in your area, your dealer may have developed a customized schedule for you. View the Wentworth Subaru Maintenance Schedule.
Manufacturer's Recommended Maintenance Schedule for a
2002 OUTBACK SPORT WAGON
Click on a highlighted Service Interval to view Interval Details
Interval Status Action
3000miles / 3 month service
7500miles / 7.5 month service
15000miles / 15 month service
22500miles / 22.5 month service
30000miles / 30 month service
37500miles / 37.5 month service
45000miles / 45 month service
52500miles / 52.5 month service
60000miles / 60 month service
67500miles / 67.5 month service
75000miles / 75 month service Maintenance performed?
Record this service in your Service History.
You can call Wentworth Subaru at (503) 232-2000 or schedule this service online to set an appointment today.
82500miles / 82.5 month service
90000miles / 90 month service
97500miles / 97.5 month service
105000miles / 105 month service
112500miles / 112.5 month service
120000miles / 120 month service
Every 10 years
It clearly states that the oil change interval (except for the very first one) is 7500 miles. By the way, if you pose a question in your post, go ahead and answer it so are all aren't' left in breathless anticipation.
I'm done, but thanks for playing.
Can I really call Wentworth Subaru to schedule an appointment!
Yeah service intervals started going to 5K from 3750 for most cars around '03 or '04, but theres still alot still on 3750.
By the question I stated, is that the customers w/ more than 200K one? Well I could go through my whole database to get you a concrete number, but I can tell you out of my 200K+ mile club, about 85-90 percent of them havent had any engine issues.
Interesting discussion you all have going here. I'm not trying to persuade anyone or say anyone is right or wrong, just throwing out my 2 cents here....
I have been through several cars and tried a lot of types of oils. For my daily driver cars, I just use whatever dino oil happens to be cheap when I go in to buy a few bottles. My daily drivers have always held up great, and honestly, I'm sure most any car can under normal regular maintenance. However, for my cars that I abuse, I always use Mobil-1.
My previous track car was a 1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 and my current track car is a 2002 Mercedes-Benz SLK32 AMG. Yeah, I like the blown V6s. I ran Mobil-1 5w-30 in the VR-4 for about 90% of it's time with me and I run Mobil-1 0w-30 in the AMG. These cars are not used as normal around town cars, only for auto-x, drag, and fun runs between Sacramento and San Jose with other cars that like to disobey speed limits. I change the oil at 5k miles on them and never have any issues. The VR-4 went to about 72k miles before I sold it, and it was still running perfectly with no issues ever. The AMG is currently at 42k miles and still runs perfectly and has had no issues either.
I know those of you have said there is no problems with Mobil-1, but only in the context of daily drivers. However, in my cases, Mobil-1 has been excellent in my very hard driven cars as well.
Now how was your pressure and oil temps w/ the Mobil in those track cars? And before you answer, do you really have anything to compare it to?
Because in my own Supra I had run everything from Castrol GTX, Syntec & Mobil before I switched to Eneos because all the previous 3 performed the same for me drifting and autoXing: Once the engine got really hot (not overheating, just really hot after prolonged redlining) and I would idle, pressure would drop to nearly 0 and oil temps would sit at 260-270. When I switched to Eneos, 10s were the name of the game. Idle would stay at 10psi and oil temps went down to 248-255. Currently I'm looking at switching to Royal Purple or Redline for the Supra and seeing what kind of difference it may make
thanks for this thread grimsta
i decided to get 4 quarts of royal purple (real synthetic) lol
instead of staying in my trap of mobil 1
i admit i do this cause mobil is cheaper
but royal only turned out to be like 5 bucks more anyways