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Thread: SR16VE thoughts.....

  1. #21
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by savestheday View Post
    So are you saying there are no good cams for the 16 or the 20? If you are saying the 20, what do you have to adjust the cams to for maximum power?
    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Dave View Post
    Charles is blowing my mind, srsly.
    haha, and that was the easy version. I could have said way more and killed the thread completely... lol

    The 1.6L just drop em in straight up and go from there. the 2.0 you idealy need the exhaust retarded about -7 and IN +2 is the best but because there isnt enough air flow for mas top end and usually people run a cheesy header, i tell em to go +4 intake to gain more midrange.

    the -7 exhaust wont clear stock pistons so stick to -5. -6 is really close on valve to piston clearance. You have to go so far off because the cam actually has more duration than needed and the exhaust valve actually opens before the piston is halfway down the bore. by opening the exhaust valve later, you gain a higher BMEP in the cylinder ( the actual force pushing the piston down the bore) and thus gain more torque. The early Exhasut valve opening is for higher RPM power and on longer rod motors to account for the extended piston dwell time at BDC.

    ok, now back to reality.. probably the only person crazy enough to do and try somehting like this is me so i'll let everyone know how it goes in a few years...

    in the mean time, just stick to a 20VE with bolt ons for ease.

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  3. #22
    Yeah That Just Happened! Dane's Avatar
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    Just for the sake of discussion what would be your thoughts on a a SR24VE?
    I know I don't have enough money to make work!
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackwater32 View Post
    Someone quote me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackwater32 View Post
    Dane, don't quote me
    WWW.TOP5DOA.NET


  4. #23
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    I know I am coming alittle late on this, but another reason for the inflation on the sr16 motor is because they are parted out more often then not. People buy them, sell the sr16 cams for cash+trade of sr20 cams...toss the 20 cams in the head and sell that. They then sell the dizzy, oil pump, water pump, and everything else. You can make a few hundred bucks off parting a sr16 motor. I would love a sr16 motor in my p10. But its all money..and school is more important then my car right now...


    I know its

  5. #24
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Just for the sake of discussion what would be your thoughts on a a SR24VE?
    I know I don't have enough money to make work!
    well i have most of the parts to my motor which is a 94mm bore x 90mm stroke, which is just shy of 2.5L, or 2,498cc's. the other way to do it is to do a 92mm bore and a 91mm stroke, which is about 2,420cc's, its all possible..

    headwork, header, intake manifold and cams is always the limiting factor though.

  6. #25
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onedeathburger View Post
    I know I am coming alittle late on this, but another reason for the inflation on the sr16 motor is because they are parted out more often then not. People buy them, sell the sr16 cams for cash+trade of sr20 cams...toss the 20 cams in the head and sell that. They then sell the dizzy, oil pump, water pump, and everything else. You can make a few hundred bucks off parting a sr16 motor. I would love a sr16 motor in my p10. But its all money..and school is more important then my car right now...


    I know its
    not only that, but most of those swaps all come with the transmission, closer ratio gears and LSD... those go for a few $$$...

  7. #26
    "the government" savestheday's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Just for the sake of discussion what would be your thoughts on a a SR24VE?
    I know I don't have enough money to make work!
    Have you seen Dre's sr23ve? He's got a thread up on the dash. He's looking for 250 whp off the bottle.

    Quote Originally Posted by trbobrk View Post
    If everything is still tight, then it just needs lube.

  8. #27
    De La Code Blackwater32's Avatar
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    Maybe I should just grab one of these......

    http://www.endless-r.com/item.php?item=633








    AZ 1/2 Race G20'S_TEAM NIZMO_AZG'Z


  9. #28
    "the government" savestheday's Avatar
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    Its seized

    Quote Originally Posted by trbobrk View Post
    If everything is still tight, then it just needs lube.

  10. #29
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    you would have to smash in the fire wall and build custom mounts

    would be sick to buy it and take everything off and bolt on a ve

  11. #30
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onedeathburger View Post
    you would have to smash in the fire wall and build custom mounts

    would be sick to buy it and take everything off and bolt on a ve
    actually that is the early btcc setup and it nearly bolts in to a p10. the notch in the drivers frame rail is there to clear the transmission. i actually talked to that guy earlier this year about that gearbox and he said it sold. i also asked about the motor and he said he did not want to sell it until he knew what was wrong with it.

    u must also use a drysump with that trans because the engine sits lower to the ground and there isnt any clearance for a std wet sump oil system.

  12. #31
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    Chuck you are god


    I have wanted to get sr16ve for awhile. Everyone has said I was crazy because of the cut in power. But I want to have a motor that was peppy, but fuel efficient when I need it to be. I figure with an open exhaust(fujitsubo anyone) and intake I would make back the power. Then alot of people would argue why waste the money on something that would make the same amount of power...why do anything at all to your car? I am not looking to build a 11k rpm motor...or making 250hp n/a isnt important to me either. But pushing 40 mpgs and still being able to have fun on long onramps or back country roads(no canyons or mountains in Missouri) is pretty bad ass.

    Chuck my question for you is...would it be a bad idea to use my p10 tranny instead of the close ratio 5 speed with the sr16? And are the gears shorter, or is it all about the final drive? Or would a spec-v or 03 max tranny suit is best?

  13. #32
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    a 04 spec trans would work great but only with the 20v final drive. the sr16 trans has close gears and i think u r at 3500 rpm @ 60mph which is ok. remembr it takes higher rpms before thenengine is more efficient and there is nothing wrong cruising on the freeeway at 4500rpms at 80mph, u will actually get better mileage there than 3000rpms @80.

  14. #33
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trbobrk View Post
    Mine must be set at 7950 then. The needle hits 8 right as I clutch in.
    yeah, probobly. if ur not hitting the rev limit right at 8k when u clutch in then it probly is a 7950. the 7500rpm ecu's show 77-7800 on the tach at the limiter. the 7950 usually show 8000-8100 at the limiter.

  15. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snickers View Post
    a 04 spec trans would work great but only with the 20v final drive. the sr16 trans has close gears and i think u r at 3500 rpm @ 60mph which is ok. remembr it takes higher rpms before thenengine is more efficient and there is nothing wrong cruising on the freeeway at 4500rpms at 80mph, u will actually get better mileage there than 3000rpms @80.
    Really? If that the case I should install my B15 transmission on the Ve. I was scared it would decrease gas mileage.

  16. #35
    G20 Member bxdiplomats247's Avatar
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    what are you looking at in the way of cost if you wanted to put in a VE with the spec v transmission? I know the spec v is not a dropin but that would be my ideal setup

  17. #36
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    the spec v trans is more suited to a 2.0 motor and not a 1.6 the best way tho is with the 4.75 20v final drive. i tell everyone that to do the 6spd conversion is about $2000-2500 and that is to do it right.

  18. #37
    G20 Member bxdiplomats247's Avatar
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    I would like to do this by mid 09 but i don't know if my current mechanic will know everything needed to make the VE work properly like the rpm window switch for cam switching(I'm thinking that's one of the more important part of the ve otherwise it would run like a DE, correct me if I'm wrong) also excuse my lack of knowledge but what is a 4.75 20v final drive.

  19. #38
    G20 Member bxdiplomats247's Avatar
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    Also i saw a picture posted above so i started digging. would one of these be good, bad, or no difference on a VE? Is it even possible to fit on a g20? Im sure you would have to do some cutting.








  20. #39
    **Official Chat Killer** Snickers's Avatar
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    sure u can make em fit. they are called ITB's or individual throttle bodies. u can make em fit but they r not cheap.

  21. #40
    G20 Member bxdiplomats247's Avatar
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    do you know anything about these like what kind of gains would it give as opposed to a WAI or CAI?


    Sorry for the thread jacking.

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