the only reason to run those is if your motor is pretty modified. get the motor in and running first
the only reason to run those is if your motor is pretty modified. get the motor in and running first
ok thanks for the info. i wish i had someone like you for when i do my swap. having you around would make things alot easier. you're like an sr20 encyclopedia.
that and moreOriginally Posted by bxdiplomats247
i love this thread, it's glorious. so much interesting information that i will probably never use.
charles o/t you know the difference between the aviner w10 and usdm dipsticks?
I'm bored Charles, come drop some more knowledge
What are the best cam's for both the 16 and 20? Any idea why aftermarket cams aren't made like the regular sr20's are?
the AWD and FWD motor dipsticks are different because of the oil pan design. they are different for the transfer case. i would not interchange.
So far the best cams are the N1's. there are 2 cam compaines in NZ, franklin and Kelford. Franklin has no idea what they are doing and can barely make a cam that will work, Kelford actually has engineering, CNC grinding abilities and I have seen some of their products and they are pretty good actually. They have not been fully tested or proven to offer drop in gains of the N1's so there are none really in the market.I'm bored Charles, come drop some more knowledge
What are the best cam's for both the 16 and 20? Any idea why aftermarket cams aren't made like the regular sr20's are?
JWT has a load of cores but no time to RND cams and test them as of yet, i'm sure one day they will come out with them though.
I personally have found a manufacturer that makes cam cores for most companies world wide and I believe they make them for nissan as well. If so I may make a few sets and get some going. If i have 100% positive results then i would think about making 50-100 sets.
the problem with DE vs VE is demand. The DE was sold here in the US in the B13 SE-R, B14 SE-R, B14 SE-L, B15 SE, and all Infiniti G20's. world wide the SR20DE is a very popular motor as well. the VE was mainly only sold in P11 primera's in japan and a few in Europe but just an AT car that no one ever planned on modifying. The Lucino's and pulsar VZ-r's and a few other economy cars came with the sr16ve. There are a load of these out there too but only a few went past full boltons.
at this point, there are probobly only i'd guess maybe 200ve's TOPS in the US. most of them are stock with I/H/E. i think there are now about 50 sets of N1 cams out there running around. Realisticly i'm only 1 of 5 people that i know that would actually build and do stuff to the VE motor to actually try to get more solid HP out of it, and not just bolting on $5 parts here and there.
damn, I didn't know there weren't that many ve's here in the states. Seems like everyone is getting them.
I'm not too engine savy, so sorry if it sounds ignorant, but how much rnd would they really need to do? From what I've seen on the dash wasn't Kelford trying to make a frankenstein cam that had the same properties of the N1 and 20v. Is there a calculation you would be able to do to find how long of lift and duration you would need?
Are you saying that there are 50 people running the n1's or that the N1 cams are hard to find?
I think Greg Vogel has gotten about 50 sets of N1 cams so there are about 50-60 sets of N1's in the country.
Honestly in a heavier car like a P11, the VE swap wont really seam as worth it cause of the added weight. your better off doing bolt ons or stock turbo stuff and keeping it simple.
The cam RnD is all about cyl head air flow, piston speed, displacement, blowdown, air velocity, valve harmonics, spring surge, valve float just to name a few. There's a lot that goes into making a camshaft profile that actually works and last a long time. Its easy to make something that will work but can mechanically damage some of the valvetrain parts and or be too aggressive or not be compatible with the valve springs and cause them to resonate and float and bend valves.
So you are saying I should be trying to go turbo?
If i had a P11, i would either just get a header, cams, intake and call it a day at about 145-150whp and or get a stock T28 setups, and small FMIC, ecu, 370cc injectors and so on, small stock simple parts, and make about 200whp. in a P11 it would be more fun and about the same cost, maybe a lil less. a VE motor with all the good boltons and cams is about $4000-5000. a simple 7psi turbo t28 setup can be had for about $2000-3000 and in a p11 will be more fun and will last forever
Already got it. It's ok, and I'll bet when I can control the shifts it will be better. I need to tune it also because I'm not getting 145 whp.
I guess that's what's next.and or get a stock T28 setups, and small FMIC, ecu, 370cc injectors and so on, small stock simple parts, and make about 200whp.
That's why I was thinking ve, because I want it to be reliable and not have to mess with it all the time.a simple 7psi turbo t28 setup can be had for about $2000-3000 and in a p11 will be more fun and will last forever
if u use the right parts and dont go to crazy, it will last forever
Charles is dropping knowledge "like Galileo dropped the orange" !!
AZ 1/2 Race G20'S_TEAM NIZMO_AZG'Z
I'm droppin it like its hawt yo!
so basically what your saying is, you need cam gears for N1 cams in a 2.0 if you want it to make decent power? I'm planning on dropping a VE into my P10 soon. I already have an intake, 2.5 SSAC, and full 2.5 mandrel exhaust. I'm going to get a Calum realtime, and I want to tune the car on an E85 map (with a 93 octane map as well).
Also, i've heard a back and forth on the short-ram vs CAI intake on VE. What's your opinion?
the cams will run ok on 0,0 but atleast set the exhaust to -5 if you can. the 2.5 SSAC will hold you back for best power but I do plan on making decent cheap exhaust for these things that have great ground clearance as well.
short ram, CAI depends on mods and where u want ur power band. on a fully built motor with a lot of work, 18-20" seems to be the best length, on these motors, a HS CAI seems to be the best. I think the 3" pipe kinda kills some of the midrange vs a 2.75" but the length is optimal for peak power.
Hmm, I have a cheap ebay CAI with 2.75" piping from the TB to MAF and a 2.5" lower section. I'll measure the piping length tomorrow. It seems to be a knockoff of the AEM design for the B15.
Is your new design going to be a 4-1, or a 4-2-1? The original stepped headers looked great, but they're outside of my price range at the moment.
Should I use the DE/VE MAF, or switch to something else? I have a Titan sensor and a 2.5 or 3" housing that I think it'll fit in. Or I could just go get an N60 from the junkyard.
the n60 is the best. if i do make another economy header it will b a 4-2-1. people want me to make a 4-1 bad ass stepped header with megaphone for $150 but its not gonna happen...
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