Wheel Stud Rant

[DMSentra]

Are you using an extension between the socket and wrench? That will bring the leverage out quite a ways instead of to the side of the stud, and without supporting the extension end of the wrench it will try to snap the stud more than loosen it.

[malady]

damn guysss

your all scaring mee

i took my wheels on and off about three times this week
no problemms.........

[savestheday]

Originally Posted by Dane

If the area where the wheel meet the hub is powered coated, I'd sand down to bear metal. Call me crazy!

Alright Crazy. I'll give it a shot while they are off.

Originally Posted by EPSentra

Are you using an extension between the socket and wrench? That will bring the leverage out quite a ways instead of to the side of the stud, and without supporting the extension end of the wrench it will try to snap the stud more than loosen it.

Usually I don't use an extension, and hold the wratcheting end with my other hand to try and make it level. I do see what you are saying though.

[Ericdd]

Originally Posted by robkris8079

I've never broken a stud in my life. I'm sure I will now that I said that.

thats why I'm keeping quiet

[DMSentra]

Originally Posted by Ericdd

thats why I'm keeping quiet

Too late man, better start checking them this minute.

[2000 G-Twenty-T]

i just took my wheel off about 4 times today, used a + shaped wrench, not a worry while tightening

[Jaralaccs]

sand the back of the wheel

always use a wheel stud installer if youre doing it by yourself
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=16113

[kaiseiken]

I ran into the same problem, I solved it by buying a lug wrench that was shaped like a cross (you can get them at almost any auto parts store, sears, etc). Pull up with one end and push down with the other so the is no net force in one direction to put stress on the wheel stud.

Before, I was putting the nissan tire iron on the lug nut and standing on one end to take it off. You could probably figure out what eventually happened when I was using that method...

[StYx G20]

termites??? hehe.....he

sorry man i dunno either. wish i could help

[savestheday]

So here's an update:



and you can't really see it, but the hole is now a little oval. Should I be worried?


So while I'm doing it, I'm going to do it right

[DMSentra]

so if you're doing it right, don't use an oval hole.
If the wheel is damaged, get a different one.

[savestheday]

that's what I'm asking. If one hole out of the three is a little more oval than the rest, is that going to cause problems?

[Dane]

Those studs are hunormous are you going to run a drifts spec 50mm spacer?

After thinking this problem through I do believe the factory wrench has a bit to do with the snapped studs. I've been using a socket on my breaker bar this puts the torque right up next to the lug, and doesn't have the 6 or so inches that tends to put a lot of sidways load on the lug.

[DMSentra]

yeah, if the holes don't look perfectly round get rid of the wheel. The problem with using it is that they tend to not stay tightened, and/or put another side load on the studs. Replace it.

[DMSentra]

Originally Posted by Dane

Those studs are hunormous are you going to run a drifts spec 50mm spacer?

After thinking this problem through I do believe the factory wrench has a bit to do with the snapped studs. I've been using a socket on my breaker bar this puts the torque right up next to the lug, and doesn't have the 6 or so inches that tends to put a lot of sidways load on the lug.

give the guy a break, he likes big studs

[savestheday]

Originally Posted by EPSentra

yeah, if the holes don't look perfectly round get rid of the wheel. The problem with using it is that they tend to not stay tightened, and/or put another side load on the studs. Replace it.

that's what I was afraid of. I have no idea where to find these wheels, plus they are powder coated.

Is there a way to fix the wheel itself?

[savestheday]

Originally Posted by Dane

Those studs are hunormous are you going to run a drifts spec 50mm spacer?

After thinking this problem through I do believe the factory wrench has a bit to do with the snapped studs. I've been using a socket on my breaker bar this puts the torque right up next to the lug, and doesn't have the 6 or so inches that tends to put a lot of sidways load on the lug.

I'm going for the mini truck look with tires out the sides.

(No, those are actually for the rear. I was running a spacer and it made it hard to tighten.)

[DMSentra]

Well, you MIGHT be bale to find a machineshop that can countersink the holes and put steel inserts in. Has to be done an a rotary table or cnc so that they are in the correct location. The inserts would have to be made I'd imagine, then pressed in just right... I can't think of another way that I'd feel comfortable recommending. Maybe some others can post also with better ideas.
Well, if the depth of the ruined hole after cleanup isn't very far off new dimensions, you could have a new countersink cut without the insert. Still a precision job for a machine shop though. It's somewhat of a liability issue so you may not find anyone to do it.

[mav1178]

There are a few (not many, but a few) machine shops that specialize in alloy/steel wheel repair. In your case, the elongated hole could be a cause of your studs snapping, as the movement of the lug nut is causing the stud to stretch, then snap when you take them off.

ALSO if your hub is damaged from the stud moving, you have two problems instead of one. If you've replaced the studs too many times, the knurl of the stud may damage the hub.

There was one machine shop that I had used for about 5-6 years in Gardena, CA. Crow Automotive Products was the name.

Not sure where they are now... they were around for almost 40 years.

-alex

[savestheday]

I don't think that the studs were loose, I had to bang on em pretty good to get them out of the hub.

There is a wheel replacement shop here in town, so this week I'll have to haul it down and have them look at it.