Howto: p11 amp bypass, 56k=death

[iamthejae]

you are correct, if you get a new stereo, or head unit you bypass the amp. you dont connect the amp plug back into the factory bose amp, esentially you could cut off the factory amp connector, this how-to just 'jumps' past the amp taking it out of the loop.
once you bypass the amp, you could take the factory amp out of the car, its a waste of space imo.

sound originates at your stereo, which sends it to the factory amp, amp receives audio signal, increases the power and sends it out to the speakers.

when you get an aftermarket amplifier, you do the same thing, only you use the rca outputs on your head unit to send the audio signal to the aftermarket amp, and then the aftermarket amp increases the audio signal and sends it to your speakers, only in wire form, not rca's (cuz your speakers dont have rcas on them silly)

hope that helps

[keyozoxmfc]

yes could not have been more clear. so if you change your amp or headunit you still have to bypass your amp anyways correct?

[keyozoxmfc]

but wait! what if you just want a new amp?

[iamthejae]

Originally Posted by keyozoxmfc

yes could not have been more clear. so if you change your amp or headunit you still have to bypass your amp anyways correct?

you dont have to bypass the factory amp, there are wire harnesses that are made to integrate the amp. that means use the factory amp with your aftermarket head unit. there are lots of those wire harnesses made but any standard nissan harness will suffice, just hook up the blue/white amp turn-on and your good to go.

Originally Posted by keyozoxmfc

but wait! what if you just want a new amp?

aftermarket or factory amp?

aftermarket: head unit sources the sound, rcas from head unit go to aftermarket amp inputs, amplifier does its job, sends sound via copper wire to speakers (the easiest way to find all 4 speaker wires together is at the factory amp, then connect them to the speaker side of the wires.

factory amp: just plug in the factory connector

[tdktank59]

Guys just want to point out that the factory headunit in a p11 has pre amplification coming out of it... So it gets amped twice...

Running my Pioneer HU off the stock system and everything is working fine!

So there is no point in bypassing the stock amp unless you are adding a second amp to use in place of the stock one... (and wanting to use stock wiring)

[thunder storm]

i bypassed mine about a week ago. shoulda done it a long time ago.

the buzz that was comming from my rear speakers is gone. and it made it easier to get my sub amp set at a level that complements the speakers. (before it was either too loud, or too soft)

[iamthejae]

^
nice work thunder storm, and good info tdktank.

[miamig20]

Originally Posted by iamthejae

^
nice work thunder storm, and good info tdktank.

Damn nice thread iamthejae thanks a mil for all the info. Ive been wanting to do this for a while now.

[iamthejae]

if you need any more info, lmk

[NotAnotherHonda]

ahhhh i hate this amp!!!


i replaced by head unit a while back and have been using the schoche thing for about a year. finally wanted to upgrade my speakers to some 4 ohms. i did it last week, and ran all new wires to the head unit, thinking thats all ide have to do. now im seeing my head unit is not getting power (the ground is not registering). so i need to bypass the factory amp if i have a new head unit AND new speakers and wiring going to the speakers?

[iamthejae]

no. if you ran new wire from your speakers directly to your deck, then you completely bypassed the factory amp. the factory amp is just dead wire in the car now congrats

if your not getting power, how are you grounding your stereo? i know that nissan doesnt supply a ground in the factory deck wire harness, and you have to make your own, if you dont it may ground through the antenna. this is usually ok if everything else on the car is stock (stereo wise).

your upgraded speakers, with upgraded wires, and new stereo may be a combination that makes grounding through the antenna not possible because the power draw is a little to much to handle.

so maybe your stereo was on and you blew a fuse? maybe one of your new wires you ran is shorting out? maybe the connector on the speaker slipped off and is touching metal causing the stereo to go into protection and wont turn on (kenwood actually says protect) sony will not turn on, pioneer will turn on but then freak out and turn off just for a reference.

[Jerimiah]

My shit is all jacked up man. I still haven't fixed it. Front right speaker doesnt work, the tweets crackle, there is ground noise, buzzing in the back speakers, and it sounds just plain terrible.

[iamthejae]

weird.
how about i pick up a nissan harness and we fix it once and for all?

[zookerjr]

So i did the amp bypass a little bit different guys. Instead of cutting, splicing, or tearing the amp apart i just used striped wire. The type of wire used is solid wire so when you strip the wire you do not have to twist it because the whole thing is solid. So hopefully this helps. This install should only take you about 10 minutes doing it this way and i figured all the slots out for you guys.

first take the wire connector off the amp and look at it with the tab to take the connector off on top. like so
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/...0415001509.jpg


After i did this i cut and stripped 8 wires about 4 inches long of wire and stripped off both ends of the wire about 1/4 of an inch. Like so.
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/...0415001508.jpg


After having all the wires. I used different colors too for the different speakers in the car. you just plug them into the wire connector.
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/...0415001501.jpg


Here is the diagram to go by.
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/500/...4150015092.jpg


The wires go like so.
Top 6 to top 13 (black) black front right speaker
Bottom 6 to top 12 (black) black front right speaker
Top 7 to bottom 13 (green) green back right speaker
Bottom 7 to bottom 12 (green) green back right speaker
Top 1 to top 5 (red) red back left speaker
Top 2 to bottom 5 (red) red back left speaker
Top 4 to bottom 1 (white) white front left speaker
Bottom 2 to bottom 4 (white) white front left speaker


This is what it looks like when they are all connected.
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/...0415001514.jpg
[IMG]ttp://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/medium/0415001514.jpg[/IMG]

After all of that is done i just put some tape on it so they don't fall out. I highly doubt they will though i just did it as a precaution. Then zip tied it to the trunk frame where they make two nice little holes for you!!!
http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/505/...0415001456.jpg



And there you go it is done then. Hope this helps people. Just another very simple way to bypass your amp!!! Also all credits go to iamthejae. because without him i would have been lost.

[iamthejae]

^
nice work, i like variety. i think all types of amp bypass' should be posted so everybody has options!


edit: here is the link to the above thread.

(Click here, internal G20.net link)

(Click here, internal G20.net link)

[burubuduy]

Jae, I'm getting confused now. I have an aftermarket stereo connected to scosche nissan connector, aftermarket amplifier and subs.

Now my question is, where should I connect this amp REM wire? should I splice this to blue/white wire (which is the Amp Turn On)? or dark blue wire (Power Antenna)? or red wire (12volt Ignition/Switched)?

[iamthejae]

you should connect it to the blue/white wire, the amp turn on (at the deck, not anywhere else, just tape it with your rca's and run them all together).

the power antenna wire will make it so your amps and subs only turn on when the antenna is up ( so you only get sub sound on radio)
the red wire, switched 12v, will work but its not recommended. if you do hook it up this way its a little bit of 'dirty power' which the amp is not used to (for the amp turn on wire anyway) and sometimes when people use this wire they hear their subs "pop" when they turn the car on. that is because the power goes directly to the amp, and not through the deck first to absorb the incoming shock and remove the sound and protect against the jolt.

[RIGHTAWAY]

i'm so confused. i want to keep the head unit but run 635 compants and a more watt amp. do i still ave to by pass all this. will this cause drity noise signal?

[iamthejae]

^
i think you want to run component speakers? idk what "635" means. anyway if you run component speakers and dont bypass the amp your new speakers will be greatly underpowered. getting an aftermarket amp to power them is really the only option if you want them to sound good.

that being said you can run all new wire to your new speakers which is what i have done even after this mod as the sound quality increases. as far as dirty sound, it wont produce anything bad that is audible but it wont be as nice or as efficient as a clean wire with no breaks or extra connetions.

[Ak1m0to]

Does anyone know how many Ohms the stock Bose speakers run?