![]() |
|
|
|
#1 |
|
G20 Senior Member
|
Changed out radiator now cant get coolant to drip out of bleeder!
So i replaced my radiator. I filled the radiator with 1 gallon of 50/50 and as I was watching the bleeder plug to start seeping with coolant the radiator stopped accepting coolant b4 the bleeder started seeping. Im so confused. I started the car with the temp all the way to hot with fan setting on # 4. Idled for a good 8 mins and the car wasnt blowing a hot as usual. I suspect there is air in my system or some how I f'ed up the t stat.....Im all bummed out!
bleeder that i disconnected
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Prince of Joy
|
Tstat should be fine. You need to make sure you keep filling the radiator until coolant comes out the bleeder hole.
Then start the car with the radiator cap off. Let it idle for several minutes and burp the system by squeezing the inlet hose. If the level drops, top it off with more distilled water. Keep doing that for a good 5-10 min, then put the cap on. If the motor doesnt get warm the tstat could be stuck open, but I dont see how that would suddenly happen just by changing the radiator. If you have air in your system that normally leads to overheating, not underheating. I suspect you either didnt let it warm up long enough or your tstat is stuck open. Did the fans ever come on? - Greg - |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
G20 Senior Member
|
I did idle the car for a good 10 mins again. heres what happened:
1. No fans turned on (just to be sure that it worked i turned on the Defrosters and it worked) 2. I noticed that the top radiator hose was hot and the lower hose wasnt all that hot, but after the car was off thats when the lower hose became warm-hot. 3.fluids were topped off. I squeezed both hoses to release some air, but still coolant topped off and no fluid coming out of bleeder. Should i change out the t stat... Thanks |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
G20 Guru
|
As I recall, the thermostat has a bleed hole that must be installed facing up. Also, make sure that you did not install the thermostat backwards. If this is the original thermostat, then you might as well replace it if you are going to open up the thermostat housing. Thermostats are cheap. Make sure to install it the correct way around, and that the bleed hole is facing up.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Prince of Joy
|
I suppose your radiator outlet hose may be plugged too? Try draining your coolant, removing it and checking it out. Good time to pop the tstat cover and make sure the tstat is installed correctly and not plugged.
- Greg - |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Nobody f's with the Jesus
|
you gotta remove that bleeder screw completely, not just loosen it.
__________________
P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (275K+) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Prince of Joy
|
P@'s a
... you dont have to remove it completely -- it will leak air and coolant if it is just loosened a couple turns. It just leaks faster with the screw out, obviously. I guess P@ just likes to see a good pee stream rather than a trickle.- Greg - |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
"says here on your chart"
|
There is also an air bleeder nipple close to the Firewall that you have to remove and bleed air out of the system too.....if you have a fsm it will show you how to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
Prince of Joy
|
Quote:
But yeah I didnt notice he has a highport so he has the bonus nipple. Lowport owners only get the one nipple. - Greg - |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
G20 Senior Member
|
nipples are always a plus...
But I took that pic from a Classic se-r the bleeder on my p10 is on the left side of the thermostat housing...there is even freaken arrow pointing to it..oh well car is back to a champ...thanks guys! |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 | |
|
Nobody f's with the Jesus
|
Quote:
__________________
P@ = Pat - 99' Red P11 Daily Driver (275K+) - 95' White P10 Daily Driver (RIP) - 97' Black Pathy 4x4 (170K+) - 90' Maroon Z32 NA (160K+) rebuilt...f***ing oil leak somewhere |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Koojo...Doctor Koojo..
|
This is an old post but I'm getting code P1126, so it's time for a new thermostat. The second bleeder valve, is that only for P10's? I'm looking at the 00 FSM, and on page 14 of the Maintenance section where it tells you how to refill the coolant, it only talks about the one bleeder valve (air relief plug) that's right near the thermostat, on the coolant inlet. There's one more??
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 | |
|
Prince of Joy
|
Quote:
- Greg - |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Koojo...Doctor Koojo..
|
Cool cool. I popped the hood and gave the radiator hose that attaches to the tstat about 10 squeezes and I could hear the tstat open and close. I cleared the code, drove on the interstate for more than 10min above 55mph as the FSM states, and the code has not yet come back. I'm guessing it was just stuck, because the car has been sitting in the garage for almost 7months w/o being driven.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 | |
|
G20 Guru
Feedback: (5) (100%)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brookville PA
Posts: 1,350
Vehicle: 2000 g20t 5spd
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 |
|
G20 Guru
Feedback: (5) (100%)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brookville PA
Posts: 1,350
Vehicle: 2000 g20t 5spd
|
pretty sure that was what it was. the guy wasn't too bright that was reading the code(it took him 3 tries to get the meter to interface with the ECU), and im pretty sure thats what i read over his shoulder. p1126
if p1126 is t-stat what is the code for the maf? (is it something i could have mistaken to be p1126) |
|
|
|
|
|
#20 |
|
G20 Guru
Feedback: (5) (100%)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brookville PA
Posts: 1,350
Vehicle: 2000 g20t 5spd
|
its late now, and i work tomorrow. the car runs fine just rpms are high when it starts and when im at the first couple stops on my way to work then it settles down(opposite of what it did when i got it before i cleaned the maf about 3 weeks before the ses came on). Also my mpg dropped about 3 mpg since the ses came on
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|