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Discussion Starter #1
It has gotten colder in Texas and now my ‘99 P11 auto tranny has a hard time shifting when I first drive it for the day. Today is much colder (than yesterday) and this morning my car got super stuck when shifting from “1st” to “2nd”, even after letting it warm up in P and D for over a minute. When it got stuck, it shuddered for 10 seconds and made a lot of noises; it only settled down when it eventually shifted back to “1st” after I came to a full stop. After this fiasco it shifted fine. I’m going to check my TPS voltage to see if it somehow got screwed up (it is a new Hitachi unit that I installed this year and greatly improved transmission response of the car at the time).

Do I need to just wait for it to warm up a bit and then rev it out a bunch first thing in the morning, or go manual?

Other relevant info: Battery is approaching 3 years of age (gets 14.2-14.4 volts while driving), grounds are all clean (new negative battery terminal and cable), tranny fluid is slightly below hash mark on warm side after 20 minutes of driving and it is a good dark red color, etc. Oil level is middle of the hash mark. Distributor is oily despite changing the O-ring so I might install one of my spares.
 

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Oil at half hash? If you had poly motor mounts you would feel that you are killing your motor, keep it at the top. Crazy sensitive they are to oil level. Neutral exchanges the fluid in your torque converter in Nissans. Will flow more through the radiator and warm it up. Try keeping it in neutral when warming it up.
 

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Oil at half hash? If you had poly motor mounts you would feel that you are killing your motor, keep it at the top. Crazy sensitive they are to oil level.
I try to keep it close to the full line; did my last oil change in early September. All mounts are OEM but I have Charlie Salazar's crossmember bushings which can add some vibrations.

Neutral exchanges the fluid in your torque converter in Nissans. Will flow more through the radiator and warm it up. Try keeping it in neutral when warming it up.
Thanks, I'll try this in the morning and report back.
 

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Well, I let it idle for 20-30 seconds in Park, Neutral, Drive, then went back to park, revved it twice (response was perfect, I have full stainless exhaust with magnaflow high-flow cat, 18" res, and muffler and ebay header), then left my parking lot. After the speed bumps, I pretty much floored it out the gate so it wouldn't get stuck between 1st and 2nd, and it shifted smoothly in the process.

This morning was right around freezing temp, which is colder than yesterday morning when it got really stuck and I had to pull over.

I will be doing some electrical work this Friday (hopefully) which may help the car. My positive terminal is about ready to snap off, unfortunately, so I'm going to replace it.
 

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The 1-2 valve gets hung up in the bore in the valve body, that's usually the 1-2 hard or soft shift. In my p10 the ground are a little different, but doesn't hurt to check resistance and add a few more ground. Especially from the trans case. I wouldn't get on her too hard in the freezing temps, that is the only time i ever lost 3rd gear when it was 19 degrees out. Don't want to blow that seal out, you'll have to pull the trans out to fix.
 

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Quick update, much warmer again here (back to 70 degrees...thanks Texas) and it shifts like a Camry again. I replaced the positive terminal, installed a new Optima red top battery, and installed a Stillen pop charger with a K&N filter; all of this has helped throttle response and idle a bit. Planning to check my inhibitor switch alignment and see if I can scrub the tranny case with a scotchbright pad to get better electrical connection. Also added a bit of oil so it is just under the full line on the dip stick.

PS - if you have Instagram, follow me @HTXG20 for all my shenanigans... [Link]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Final update:

It is back to being cold here in Texas and so far I haven't had issues if I do the following:

1. Let the car warm up in Park and Neutral for about 2 minutes
2. Creep out of the apartment complex in "1" - then shift to "D" before hitting the main road
3. Check the tranny fluid (hot) level with the car still running after longer drives

I also checked my inhibitor switch and it was aligned perfectly but the bolts were a tiny bit loose, so I tightened them, and the shifter moves much easier now.
 
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