You're on the right track to fix the 171 code. I would replace the torn intake boot first, but it is very likely that you will also need to replace the MAF. It is a common failure on the later P11s. The knock sensor code is pretty straightforward and also very common. You'll need to replace the knock sensor to get it to clear.
2001 base O2 & knock sensor codes = Check Engine Light
Hey everyone, I know I'm new, but I just picked this little car up as a daily from a neighbor for a cool grand and It's a great little car. I've had a few minor issues with it, but nothing I haven't been able to solve thus far.
I am repeatedly throwing codes for my 02 sensor and knock sensor. P0171 & P0325. I've cleared the codes, they keep coming back. So, obviously, there is a failure in the system.
At first, I figured the 02 was linked to a minor issue I had with fuel and air. I changed the fuel filter & checked the tank when I bought the vehicle, which was a good thing, the filter was disgusting, but the tank was clean.
The second issue I had/have is that my air intake tube is severely cracked between the MAF & throttle body. I remedied this by using MASSIVE amounts of electrical tape around the intake hose in an attempt to avoid going full-retard with an aluminum intake. I will replace this hose as soon I can source one. In the mean time, I've taken care of the leaks there.
The bad part is that most of the material like wire looms under the hood are deteriorating. I'm slightly concerned about vacuum leaks. I can't recall if I was reading this forum, or another, but "dirty MAF" seemed to be linked to the O2 sensor, or at least that's what I read. I'm not sure what's generating the knock sensor code. Engine runs just fine.
I'm completely mechanically capable of fixing anything here, but I'm unfamiliar with OBD II Nissan stuff (I have several older 70's Datsuns, and an '86 z31). Any help you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated!
I am repeatedly throwing codes for my 02 sensor and knock sensor. P0171 & P0325. I've cleared the codes, they keep coming back. So, obviously, there is a failure in the system.
At first, I figured the 02 was linked to a minor issue I had with fuel and air. I changed the fuel filter & checked the tank when I bought the vehicle, which was a good thing, the filter was disgusting, but the tank was clean.
The second issue I had/have is that my air intake tube is severely cracked between the MAF & throttle body. I remedied this by using MASSIVE amounts of electrical tape around the intake hose in an attempt to avoid going full-retard with an aluminum intake. I will replace this hose as soon I can source one. In the mean time, I've taken care of the leaks there.
The bad part is that most of the material like wire looms under the hood are deteriorating. I'm slightly concerned about vacuum leaks. I can't recall if I was reading this forum, or another, but "dirty MAF" seemed to be linked to the O2 sensor, or at least that's what I read. I'm not sure what's generating the knock sensor code. Engine runs just fine.
I'm completely mechanically capable of fixing anything here, but I'm unfamiliar with OBD II Nissan stuff (I have several older 70's Datsuns, and an '86 z31). Any help you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated!
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Sounds good, thanks.
6
Found part of the problem:
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I did plugs (Bosch Platinum 1's for $2.99 ea), and oil (Valvoline synthetic High Mileage) today, also blew the 02's out with MAP gas (the pigtail wiring fucking sucks). Tomorrow I'll take care of trans fluid & filter. Next week, I'll end up doing in tank fuel sock-filter, dizzy cap & rotor, and wires.
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I did plugs (Bosch Platinum 1's for $2.99 ea), and oil (Valvoline synthetic High Mileage) today, also blew the 02's out with MAP gas (the pigtail wiring fucking sucks). Tomorrow I'll take care of trans fluid & filter. Next week, I'll end up doing in tank fuel sock-filter, dizzy cap & rotor, and wires.
I personally would stick with denso or ngk plugs. You also might want to read up on changing a trans filter as it is not suggested.
I've been trying to find the information on it. I'm aware the valvebody has to come apart to remove the filter due to a reamer bolt. Why exactly isn't it suggested?
The bosch platinum's are okay. I've never had any issues with them. I drive a LOT, so I'll be checking them around the next oil change. The difference in the car is NIGHT & DAY though...
The bosch platinum's are okay. I've never had any issues with them. I drive a LOT, so I'll be checking them around the next oil change. The difference in the car is NIGHT & DAY though...
I agree. I have never had any kind of luck with Bosch spark plugs except in a VW. I would stick with NGK or Denso.I personally would stick with denso or ngk plugs. You also might want to read up on changing a trans filter as it is not suggested.
so... let me get this straight, my last post (after I installed new plugs) was in regards to trans tech....and you're talking about $2 parts that are working just fine...I agree. I have never had any kind of luck with Bosch spark plugs except in a VW. I would stick with NGK or Denso.
Some just didn't have good luck with those plugs. But if they are working great for you then :thumbsup: Can't argue positive results. But in regards to the trans filter there is a screw you need to undo to remove the filter. Problem is the nut on the otherside gets lost in the trans forever. You would need to disassemble the trans to get to it. That is why most people don't change the filter. Horrible design.
good thing you showed us what you were up to! Don't want your trans having a floating nut inside. Rob is laying down the law! Ngk heat range 5 seem to work best for me. I have used quite a few different kinds of plugs. The cheap ngk copper bkr6e is what most people use because they are cheap and work the best. Just have to change them often. Welcome to the forum.
Some just didn't have good luck with those plugs. But if they are working great for you then :thumbsup: Can't argue positive results. But in regards to the trans filter there is a screw you need to undo to remove the filter. Problem is the nut on the otherside gets lost in the trans forever. You would need to disassemble the trans to get to it. That is why most people don't change the filter. Horrible design.
Yeah, I was surprised to see that the filter included instructions on how to change it. I come from the world of Fast Chevy's with LS1's, and BIG Ford's with AOD & E4OD transmissions. I'm accustomed to working on my domestic stuff, and I've never seen anything that required part of the valve body to be removed. Oddly, Infiniti's service manual on the subject of Overhauling the transmission advises against reusing the transmission pan bolts.. wtf?
I have that file downloaded, but it only gives me animated exploded views of the transmission and doesn't mention much about the trans filter/fluid service/overhual.
If any of you fella's have some pictures or know of a thread with pictures in it, please post & share them with me in this thread. I haven't had the opportunity to do this yet, as we've been hit with HARD rain here in Jackson and I do 99.99% of my automotive work outdoors in the driveway. So, I'm still hanging loose.
In regards to spark plugs....... if the engine runs, fires, and doesn't knock/overheat/ping/detonate, the plugs are doing a fine job. I'll check the current Bosch Platinum plugs out when I change my oil since all of you seem to think they're bad news.
In my experience with SR20 engines, most have been 240 swaps with the DET suffix, they all run NGK plugs. I run Motorcraft copper's in my Hyrdualic Roller 351W without any issue and loads of torque.
Hey...if the Bosch plugs work OK for you so be it.so... let me get this straight, my last post (after I installed new plugs) was in regards to trans tech....and you're talking about $2 parts that are working just fine...
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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