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Discussion Starter #1
Hello every one
little story about the P10....was running great then automatic transmission started slipping I thought it was the shifting solenoids so I dropped the pan and found chunks of metal on the magnets, after finding metal on the pan I didn't want to risk the car leaving me stranded. So down came the transmission and found that the input shaft had broken pieces by this point I had found a transmission from a 2002 with a LSD for 400$ with some of the wiring still attached I figured it should be a "bolt on" right....AH NO but very very close, enough of that If you are going to do this you should know a little/or a lot about the transmission but if you have the FSM it will help.

I JUST WANTED TO PASS THIS INFO ALONG TO P10 OWNERS.
1. You will need to drop the pan on the P11 trans and and remove the control valve body but be VERY careful not to break anything you will be reinstalling it back on the trans.
2. Remove the manual shaft from the P10 transmission and from the P11 and swap the p10 on to the P11,,do to the p11 shifting from the top and the p10 from the bottom.
3. Reinstall the P11 P11 P11(not the p10) valve body back on make sure it all went on like it should.
4. Now the wiring....this almost took me two weeks to figure out because I want it to be perfect, hopping you have a pig tail of at least 3 inches from the P11 plug coming out of the trans you should solder with the p10 cut from the terminal plug so you can connect it again to the plug on top of the trans. I wont say the colors of the wires because they are all different but if you have the black plug from the pP11 facing you and have the brown plug from the p10 facing you(wires should be away from you) they match up to one another. it was easier to do then type I guess
5. Install the P11 trans on to the p10 you will need to bend one of the oil cooling lines a little not much to put the trans mount on,and I kept the p10 oil deep shaft cause the p11 one hits the radiator hose.

all though the shifting solenoids are not on the same location on the the p10 then on the P11 they do the same thing as far as the computer goes nothing changes. I have been driving the car for almost a month and the shifting is smooth and on point, actually can't even feel it shift from second to third. If this info helps and you have questions PM with questions
Im sure the info above wont make much sense but I thought that it would be great to know that there's options for the automatic p10 owner out there. I will see if i can do it with some pictures for a visually aide and will edit if somethings can be simplified as well.
 

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Ha. I'm doing this tomorrow. Was thinking rewiring to get rid of that mess of shit wire on top too. How is the 3 - 2 kickdowns on slow rolls? And which speed sensor and revolution sensor did you use? I know the revo sensor is different it can't be used from p11 into the p10. Great write up. Oh and the p10 has a 1900 stall converter. P11 b15 has 2300. The p10 TC run cooler and just better for a daily driver. Thank you for confirm it works.
 

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So far all shifting is really good no hard drops on rpm's as far as the sensors go I swapped all the p10 to the p11 just to make it easy and I knew the all worked fine, for the TC I used the one that came with the P11 because I think initially that was the cause of the bad P10 transmission. I wish you luck and if you have more question let me know ill be more then happy to help you out
 

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Light throttle whistle is gone. No codes. Good shift. And the 03a was humming at about 2500 to 2800 Accel or decel everytime. I used cooler lines from the A to keep them away from the Turbo. Another thing, don't know if it was bad. But the low one way sprag was super tight and kinda hummed even when I soaked it in fluid. So I used the good 1 from the A into the B. Added 2 extra clutch in the high clutch. Pulls much better up there now. Added a Shift kit. Now I need to figure out a board to solder into the controller like a nistune to change some things up. Like speed points where it kicks down to 2 and 1. About 20,000 miles abuse on the A with a shift kit , the clutches had 0 wear. I could still read the words on them. And the steels had no wear or dishing. The drum looks better. In the A it was kind of blue and scratched. The B on a 216,000 mile Sentra SE was perfect still and the tolerance was still .40. I have poly mounts all around and forgot to tighten the crossmember mount all the way up and was getting wheel hop like nuts. Moved it and tightened it all good now.. As an upgrade is it worth it, I don't think so. But if your trans is failing definitely yes. All this and I go inside and use a 5 speed 70v for a red bull holder. Oh and then the f'ing passenger axle seal decides it wants to not hold shit in like it supposed to.
 

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1 more thing. My bad for thread jacking, but try to keep the info 1 place. I had a surge in my idle randomly drop about 300 rpms. It was constant but not on rhythm. Changed plugs wires caps dizzys. Compression . Leak downs. That went away with the swap too. So with the reverse drum out of tolerance, maybe it was kind of engaging. Probably was fighting reverse when in forward gears too.
 

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P10 dipstick tube is 1-1/8 inch longer. The tolerance level on the b15 dipstick is alot tighter. Full hot is now only half way up the hot hash mark if using the p10 stick. I noticed it shift great, then when the trans got to temp it started slipping into 2nd and would act a little weird. Was thinking it was fluid thinning out at temp, but I checked the stick level. Bubbles. So I took some fluid out. Measured and compared sticks again. And then again. Even tried a resistor in the fluid temp , but with different resistors it just made me have no lock-up when using about 2.5k. (Trying if it would have a little higher line pressure when at temp with the resistor).
 

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Rev sensor reads different. Redline went down to 6900 from 7700. The final drive where it reads splines on the pinion is a little different . Workable, but the 03a is better unless you have stand alone to control it or swap the pinion with it.
 
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