[Y2KG20]

Nothing new... Thinking about adding in some timing on the dyno and maybe going to 24psi if the ignition will hold up. Still driving her everyday.

Car is @ 184,500 miles

Rebuilt RE4F03B (5 disc high clutch) with shift kit @ 20psi now at 13,900 miles
Rebuilt factory B15 00' roller rocker engine @ 14-20psi 23,550 miles

 

[Y2KG20]

The car finally had it's first transmission mechanical failure, it's been sitting a couple of months since I haven't had the time to screw with it. I'm lucky that I was able to drive it home. The pinion gear that contacts the ring gear or final drive sheared 3 teeth off and threw them into the pan, it was making a clicking noise relative to speed. We are going to move the clutches and valve body over to the spare tranny sitting in the garage. I won't call this a common failure until a second transmission does this.

Car is at 184,700 miles

http://photos.computekinc.us/i.ashx?&mid=103657893&mt=Photo&standardsize=4640x2610

 

[Y2KG20]

The clutch/valve body swap went quick and she is back on the road again. Good thing too because I was changing the valve cover gaskets on the G35x and it went horribly wrong twice in a row and I needed a backup car for the week. I honestly don't know how many more miles I'll put on the ol' autotragic since I bought the 2 G35x cars. The 05' is going to be the new turbo project taking over the autotragic's place. If I get to a point where she is just sitting I'll probably have my brother drive it daily to rack up the miles.

 

[MFNchip]

You still putting miles on the autotragic? Did you guys handle that LCA issue?

 

[Y2KG20]

I left it at my brothers house and he was driving it until last month sometime. He saw the oil light flicker on his way home and put it up until we can pull the pan and verify things. It had full oil and the digital gauge showed regular oil pressure but we want to make for sure. Never did fix the LCA popping noise, it just needs to be loosened up and jacked in there just right. The Chinese LCA's for the P11 don't fit well and the rear bushing cup doen't fit in there very well.

On another note I just finished up the G35x turbo project. Still have to tune it and took it on it's maiden voyage around the neighborhood to make sure it all runs well. It's a rear mount GTX3076R (same turbo from my 99' VET car) with 12 fuel injectors. Tuning it with romraider/nisflash and a FIC6 for the extra 6x GT500 injectors. Should put down 400-450 ish on 15psi. Loved the G20 but got tired of blowing the tires off all of the time. The AWD is going to change all of that and will be fun in all weather conditions. I'll probably make a thread here with some details and vids.

 

[Y2KG20]

I worked on the autotragic last weekend. We dropped the oil pan and it had some silt at the bottom but looked pretty good considering how hard we push it. We also checked 1 rod bearing clearance to make sure it was in spec and then sealed it back up. The engine was making a weird howling noise so I took off the belts to eliminate the accessories and the noise quit.... Well I found that the new Gates water pump bushing was completely worn out. I could wiggle the pulley there was so much slack. I took a low mile VET water pump off the old 6 speed car engine and got her back on the road. I still can't believe the new water pump only lasted about 25k miles... I might put insurance back on it for awhile and rack up a few more miles on her.

 

[Y2KG20]

Had to renew the plates on the G20 so I decided to clean her up and get it back on the road. Changed the front seats out with 68k mile ones and also the rear driver side door was swapped with a near perfect one form the same 68k car. Cleaned the carpet and installed a 7" android touchscreen bluetooth MP4 unit to update the radio.

So the car was put away as soon as my brother saw the oil light flicker one time when he let off the throttle. It was in the hottest part of summer with the air conditioning on. I haven't been able to reproduce the problem but the oil pressure is lower than the FSM's stated 11psi at idle. I'm going to guess the idle dropped a little below 750 rpm on him to trip that low oil light. I have noticed that both G20's that I have had were lower pressure than they should be so I started thinking about the oil that I use. The full synthetic 10-30 Mobil 1 is a very thin oil.... So I decided to drop my brand new synthetic and try good old walmart supertech 20-50 conventional to see what happens.

Mobil 1 full synthetic 10-30
66-69 PSI @ ambient temp 75 degrees - full cold engine (start up)
7-9 PSI - full hot (after 20 min drive)

Supertech 20-50 Conventional
67-70 PSI @ ambient temp 81 degrees - full cold engine (start up)
11-13 PSI full hot (after 20 min drive)

Been driving it for over 500 miles now and she has been fine. Got to put the hurt on a Corvette on my way home haha! Just checked my mileage for mostly city driving and burning the tires off a couple times a day @ 19.3 MPG on straight E85 (about 64%)

I'll probably try a thinner conventional oil to see how much change there is. The full synthetic has worked great for over 4 years for me but I really don't like the pressure hanging lower at idle. A VET/DET oil pump may solve that issue. Makes me wish I had both oil pressure gauges in my VET car back in the day.... Still have the VET motor so maybe one day haha!

 

[Y2KG20]

Just rolled her over to 188k. Still running 20psi boost.... Conventional oil has fixed the oil PSI drop. Haven't done anything new to the car, been thinking about parting it out. Been getting into ecoboost engines and tuning since they are fully tuneable with a flash.