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who would win in a race between the integra and the g20 here are the specs

Integra
1.8 4banger 142 hp at 7000
125ft/lb
AT trans
2745 lbs curb weight
bore and stroke: 3.27 X 3.35
Compression ratio: 10:1

The G20
2.0 4banger 140 hp at 6000
132ft/lb
AT trans
2789 lbs curb weight
bore and stroke: 3.23 X 3.68
compression ratio:10.3:1
 

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well, i dont know about the difference in years of the G (shouldnt be any difference) but i raced my 95 G with a 92 integra (one of my friends). it was dead even for a while but then i slowly gained some length on him (about a car length) at around 65-70mph. we both had automatics. i used my own takeoff technique if that changed anything (put in 2nd at stop, take off overdrive, wait til near redline at 2nd, pop into neutal to drive). i dont know if my technique helps at all but for some reason it feels like it does and it probably isnt good on the car. i also dont race my car a lot though.
 

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TheWoo said:

The G20
2.0 4banger 140 hp at 6000
132ft/lb
AT trans
2789 lbs curb weight
bore and stroke: 3.23 X 3.68
compression ratio:10.3:1
Those are not correct specs for the G20. (not sure about the integra)
The motor's bore and stroke is 3.39 x 3.39
The compression ratio is 9.5:1 (unless you've installed a 10.0:1 JDM motor)

As for who's going to win. Take it to the track and find out.
 

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Shit, I lost to an DC Integra the other weekend. From 70-120mph. We were pretty even until around 115. I started to lose ground on him until I was just wayy behind a couple car lengths. Then he hit the hazards to show off the winner...:evil:

I don't know if it was a GSR or non. But we were even for a while so I'm guessing it was probably an LS and they just have better top end then we do. The LS speedometer goes to 140 mph so that may be and indicator of better top end.

I have a Stillen Intake and Headers, and advanced timing. I don't know what the other guy had.

However, I gave the beat down to a '95 Civic EX and a riced out mid-ninties Toyota Corolla that same night. But that's nothing to write home about...
 

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Yeah, something similar happened to me on the way home. 805 south, DC Integra. I think it's safe to say that a G20 owner shouldnt' be afraid of any Honda below a Civic Si. Does that sound about right?
 

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FF Drifter said:
Yeah, something similar happened to me on the way home. 805 south, DC Integra. I think it's safe to say that a G20 owner shouldnt' be afraid of any Honda below a Civic Si. Does that sound about right?

Depends which G20 you're talking about.
 

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Well, which G20s should I be talking about then? My first guess would be a P10 cuz they're lighter after all, but on second thought, a P11 has an extra 5HP to play with. Maybe a 93.5 P10?
 

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FF Drifter said:
Well, which G20s should I be talking about then? My first guess would be a P10 cuz they're lighter after all, but on second thought, a P11 has an extra 5HP to play with. Maybe a 93.5 P10?

Mods also have a lot to do with it... say a modded 5-spd P11 vs a stock auto P10 would still be a lot different... I think a lightly modded G20 and a Civic SI would probalby be a good race. A stock auto P10 would probably beat a 5-spd EX, most definitely an auto EX. Decently modded P10 or P11 5-spd, would hang/beat modded SI, GS-R, or prelude depending on mods (for both cars) They all, with mods, would run a low 15, maybe (hopefully) 14's, just depends on how modded they are. Driver plays a big factor on the track too, I'm just assuming equal drivers. Oh yeah, the Honda's should run a higher trap speed for equal ET's too. but once again, it all just depends...
 

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Stock auto P10 is on about equal levels with a 5-speed Civic EX I'd say, cuz my friend and I have proven it more than a few times. :rolleyes: Don't ask how....
 

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My friend has a 96' civic EX with intake, cat back exhaust and headers with 17"inch rims 5 speed and im stock with 17"innch rims and im auto, he beats me by like 2 inches every time because he double clutches which i dont think works but thats how he gains those inches.
 

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trbobrk said:

So he would really pull away if he drove normally.

I dont care what anyone says i read the post on double clutching and when he shifts into second or 3rd and double clutches you can see his car gain a little. Some people just talk facts facts facts, i see it myself everytime so no he wouldnt gain more he just drove normally. :tired:
 

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At risk of sounding like a complete idiot, double clutching means you are pushing the clutch pedal once when you come out of the gear you're in, releasing it, and pushing it again to put it back into gear.

I've got that right, yeah?

How on earth can this affect the acceleration on these cars? apart from it taking longer to shift gears?

I used to have to do it on a really old car when changing into reverse, or down into first, but never changing up, and that was only because the synchromesh was screwed on first and reverse and it was a bitch to put in gear.

Somebody please enlighten me.
 

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C&D results

Car and Driver test results show the Integra with a slight edge for the manual trannies.
The Integra LS was 8.1 0-60 mph and the G20t was 8.5 for 0-60. This difference is within the variations for different test conditions (i.e. traction, temperature, wind, etc.). I'd say like the numbers say: It's a dead heat.

Note: Per my 25 years reading car magazines, to obtain the best acceleration from an automatic you need to perform some level of power braking. Hold the brakes (hard) and lightly rev the engine IN GEAR. This has something to do with "spooling up" the Torque Converter. Some cars work best with only 1500 rpm of power braking, while others need upwards of 3000 rpm of power braking. The key is not to bog down the engine (too little rpm) or break the tires free (too much rpm) as soon as the brakes are released.

Also, there is ABSOLUTELY NO REASON to double clutch UP SHIFTS. It will NOT result in better acceleration numbers but WORSE numbers. I make this statement based on 22 years of driving, 25 years reading car magazines, a couple seasons auto crossing and 2 Porsche Club of America driving classes.
 

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G20 automatics are not any faster when power braking off the line, the stall speed (i think that's the correct term) is too low for it to be effective. I've tested this before and there is no advantage whatsoever by doing this. My old 94 automatic was the test car.
Now, if you have your transmission modified by level 10 and they change everything around that's a whole other story.
 

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Ok guys whatever you say. From my point of view he does gain the extra two inches, i even drove the damn car because of this post and did it you feel the car hop a little. I dont mean double clutch right away but shift up, wait a second and then press of the clutch again until the RPMS go almost to redline and then when you drop the clucth you FEEL the slight gain. But ill leave it to the magazine reader experts. I drove it normally and still the double clutching did help.
 

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Ok, so double clutching is what I thought it was. It is only useful for down shifts, there is no mystic art, and it shouldn't have any real effect. Cool. Nice to know I'm not completely stupid.


I dont mean double clutch right away but shift up, wait a second and then press of the clutch again until the RPMS go almost to redline and then when you drop the clucth you FEEL the slight gain. But ill leave it to the magazine reader experts. I drove it normally and still the double clutching did help.
Isn't that just using the momentum of the parts in the engine to jolt the transmission a bit? Yeah sure, you'll feel a burst forward, but like you said, two inches. Surely you'd go faster by applying the power constantly rather that coasting and jolting. Just what I would have thought.

I always had the feeling the double-clutching was a street-racerz myth to try and give the impression that they were better than the actually are.
 

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Thats why i always lose by two inches ESTIMATED obviously.
 
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