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Discussion Starter #1
O.K., this is a timing question. Here goes. I replaced my transmission on Sunday, and while I was at it, I decided to change my plugs and distributor and such. I didn't have any wires because I couldn't afford them. Well, the wires turned out to be toast. I went ahead and timed my engine, and it all went well without problem. So today I buy new wires and put them on and retime my engine just in case. Now, the timing marks aren't even showing, WTF!?! The marks are now 45 degrees clockwise of where it should be!! It still runs great though!! I dont understand, I followed the FSM religiously and the se-r.net info, and I did it once before. HELP!!! I deeply apologize for the long post, but I'm going nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I forgot to mention, it idles normal with the TPS connected, but when I disconnected it to set the timing, the idle jumped to 1500 RPM. I thought that was odd, it didn't do that before I changed the plug wires.
 

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Check your idle set screw. try adjusting it down so the car idles at the correct rpm when in timing mode. this may be the reason that the timing marks are way off. timing changes as rpms change.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
O.K., I have done the following: turned down the idle before timing, didn't work; used a different timing light just in case, didn't work; gone though the steps in the FSM over and over again for three straight hours, didn't work. I think I am going to light my car on fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yup, I got the idle down to 750, I then revved the engine to 3000rpm three times to lock the timing, but the timing marks were still way off. I would think if it was really off that bad it wouldn't run. Is there two different sets of timing marks on the pulley?
 

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Did the timing marks stop?

I have seen a SR20DE's that were off the scale each way. The car will still run, although being low on power.

If the timing is still bouncing around, then you aren't in timing set mode. If it's there and just way off, then your timing is just that far off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay, I turned my engine to 0 degrees and took off my distributor cap. The rotor was not really pointng at the #1 terminal. Is it supposed to be centered on the terminal? I am going to slot the rotor and see if I can move it closer. I tried my old wires, and they didn't make any difference, it actually ran worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh, yeah. The timing marks weren't bouncing. They never moved a bit. At least I know its going into timing mode now. I wasn't sure how to tell before. Thanks. If at first or seventeenth you don't suceed, try try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I slotted my rotor to gain more adjustment, but the marks are still about 180 degrees of where it should be. I havent taken out the distributor, and it fires just fine. I have been at this for three days, I am getting extremely frustrated. It's not like I haven't done this before or anything, I got it to work on Sunday, I can't see anything I have done differently.
 

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Okay, Ill take a stab at it. but this may be way off....just my two cents...

You are in the correct timing mode right? When you take off the TPS the RPMs shoulnt jump up like that, the car will want to stall out.

Make sure you are connecting the timing light to the left most spark plug wire. (#1 cylinder, I think). Dont know if this makes a difference. I would think so.

You first mentioned that the timing marks were 45* off and then later they were 180* off. Is this correct or was that a typo. reason being, and this is far fetched, your crank pulley may be slipping on the crank shaft, if the woodruff key is not there for some odd reason. Like I said....far fetched....

Other than that, I cant think of anything. Ive read that when the timing is way off, the ECU automatically corrects this. I could be worng on that one as well.

I guess the only advice I have. If the distibutor set screw is at the 12' o-clock position that is close to the factory setting, a little more forward? will advance it a bit, backward will retard it. I cant remeber....Thats about all I can contribute to this.

You may want to ask this question on the SR20DE forum... http://209.120.142.43/ ... bunch of gearheads there...

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yahnozha said:

You first mentioned that the timing marks were 45* off and then later they were 180* off. Is this correct or was that a typo. reason being, and this is far fetched, your crank pulley may be slipping on the crank shaft, if the woodruff key is not there for some odd reason. Like I said....far fetched....
Oh my god, you hit that on the head. I figured it out a little bit ago, and when I came to check the site, you posted this. Freaky. I removed the #1 spark plug and found TDC. Turns out that the actual TDC is not even close to the indicated one, it is probably 30-45 degrees from it. I'm not sure if I screwed up the timing the first time I did it and the pulley never moved, or if the pulley moved between now and then. I have no clue why it was 180* off that one time, must not have locked in timing mode. Well, tomorrow I'll finish it up. Thanks everyone.
 
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