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Discussion Starter #1
Okay. I used the search engine thing and nobody really had quite the same problem. My car starts up perfectly fine, and idles perfectly fine until I start driving and go to the first stop.as I slow down my rpm's go down. the harder I push my brakes the faster the rpm's go down, so I slam on the gas and the brakes at the same time to make the stop light and keep my poor baby alive. But then after I've been driving for about 5 minutes I don't have to worry about it anymore. she stops fine and there is no rpm trouble.:)
WHAT THE HECK IS GOING ON?!!:monkey:
Help me!Please!
 

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How many miles on your car? Have you been doing regular maintainance and check-ups?

The problem goes away after 5 minutes? Have you changed your fuel filter lately?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I almost have 110k on her..the thing is, that I totalled her in May and supposedly got all the problems fixed but ever since then little things have started going wrong with her. I'll definatly check the filters though.. I'm taking her in for a full check up and everything in a couple of weeks.
 

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I'd be quite surprised if it was the clutch. :confused:

Sounds like surge and hesitation type symptoms. You might wanna check to see that your EGR and BPT valves are working properly. Also check to see if the MAF ground needs regrounded.

Those two seem to cure the engine stalling when stopping on the SR20's.

The only other thing you might wanna check is to see if your base idle is set properly. Sometimes when you are hitting the brakes, the engine will begin to descend to idle. If the idle is set to low, it could cause the engine to stall if the ECU does not compensate for the decrease in RPM's quick enough.

Go here for procedures:

www.se-r.net

BPT/EGR:
http://www.se-r.net/car_info/problems/index.html#Surge and hesitation

MAF Reground:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/maf_ground.html

Idle Speed Adjustment:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/adjust_idle.html

Good luck!
 

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dunno...

It is my strong opinion that accidents cause all sorts of strange problems that spring up later in the car's life and cannot be 100% proven as part of the original accident...

After personal experience with 3 of my previous cars, I tend to avoid buying a car that was in a heavy accident AND I tend to quickly trade in a car that was in a major accident.

Case in point:

I had an 87 VW Fox that was in an accident (it got hit parked). From that point forward, (after the repairs) one headlight would sometimes go out and on, along with the alarm giving false 'beeps'. Neither problem could ever be proven related to the accident much less corrected because it was intermittant and testing the electronics didn't show any problems..

I also had a Merkur XR4ti that was in a front side fender collision and it just never felt the same afterwards (difficult to explain)... but after I sold it and bought another used one with NO accidents (same year and model options) it drove completely differently and felt so much better..

...and yet another car that was hit along the side had to have wheel bearings replaced 5 months after the accident... I was told it was likely due to the accident prematurely causing problems..

So I sort of assume the worst in a car that was in a bad accident based on my own personal experiences.
 

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btw: other car

the wheel bearings had to be replaced at all 4 wheels individually over a 2month period (in a VW Jetta).....

it seems just too much of a coincidence that there was an accident to the car!


So my answer to can it be related to your accident? YES because things in the car were not designed to take a sudden impact and keep working normally.. HOw likely is it for this to be related? Who knows? ..and my feeling is that you'll never know for sure..


Sorry that probably isn't the answer you wanted to hear!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok well I'm getting a clutch ordered today and my tires balanced and alligned, and I talked with my auto mechanic and he said to get some STP gas treatment stuff..I'll tell you guys how the cars doin tomorrow.
 

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I had the exact same problem, except it also sometimes happened after the engine was hot. Anyway I had the dealer clean the air flow regulator valve ($110) and thats pretty much cleared up the problem. The idle no longer drops below 750 and the car has not stalled when coming to a stop since. I wouldnt be surprised if you're having the same problem. If you dont have 110 bucks to spare, there's a procedure to clean this valve yourself on se-r.net.
Information about this valve:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_iacv.html
Cold Idle Fix:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/cold_idle_fix.html

Whatever you do dont let the dealer talk you into blowing 200 some bucks on an entirely new valve. They tried this on me but gave up when they realized I didnt have $200 to give them, so it was cleaning the old valve or nothing at all. The cleaned valve works perfectly. Good luck dude
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OOPSS!!yeah sorry..Got it fixed. I just needed to let my car run for about 3 minutes to let it warm up. it hasn't done it since..But I crashed my car a few hours ago so...yeah I don't know if I'll be able to keep her:hurt: :cheeky: :( :sleep:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
long stiry short I completely ripped apart a 15-20 foot tree and ended in the front of a business. I need a new fender and some paint for that and my bumper. My car has lowered herself about an inch since and I need another alignment bad!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thank you. I am perfectly fine but my poor little baby is hurtin. she needs new rims and tires and a front bumper and right front fender and some other suspension fixes, but I'm takin care of the unsafe stuff tomorrow. so she'll be ok and dandy pretty soon. And when she's done she'll have a front bumper ground effects kit.:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well I don't get a rental car. My car still drives. it's just not safe cuz my back tire could blow easily. but yeah. it'll only take the people a day to fix my car and maybe I will have a rental car when they're doin all the cosmetic work.:lol: maybe
 
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