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Hello all,

Alex (Mav1178), asked if I'd be willing to test fit and run the new ATI Racing crank pulley.

Their website is:
http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm

Ok, a few things about this pulley.
  • ATI designed this pulley to work with both the DE AND VE motors.
  • The larger belt pulley is larger in diameter than the factory VE pulley.
  • The smaller belt pulley is the same diameter as the factory VE pulley.
As I understand, the pulley is designed to help prevent harmonic vibration to the crank at high rpm's. So those of us that want/like to rev the heck out of our motors.. it looks like a good idea. (But Alex can go further into all the reasons to run one).

Here is a pic of the ATI pulley, with the factory VE crank pulley sitting on top of it. (the face of the ATI pulley is around 11-12mm larger in diameter than the factory VE crank pulley).




Here is the pulley installed on my car. You can see the timing pointer from the block lines up perfectly!


And here is a picture of the pulley from the outside angle (wheel removed):


My impressions.. The car seemed to idle a bit smoother. The power delivery seemed about the same as with the stock pulley. Keep in mind, that since the larger belt pulley is bigger in diameter, this is actually an "over drive" pulley.

Also, I think my A/C might have worked a little better.. (which is a good thing here in AZ).

I only had it on my car for a day..and then pulled it out the next day (today) to send it back. I did not log very many miles with it on the car, but it fit perfect and worked well, no issues at all.

Maybe in the future I'll get one (Depending on my budget of course) :)
 

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Nice. im sure you get a discount if you want one right? since you were the ginny and all?
 

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http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/101/index.htm

I would suggest you to read that article first.







Now, here's a few points Kyle didn't cover:

- This damper is basically the DE version, that was screwed up by someone @ SR20Forums that was doing a group buy. Some guy in Vegas area contacted JC Beattie @ ATI, wanted to have a FWD damper made, got the initial prototype.... and disappeared. This was back in December.

- I contacted JC @ ATI back in March about having one made for the VE. He noted that he already had someone test-fit a DE damper, and that the two are close enough to where he might not make one specifically for the VE... then the fiasco, then I offered my help.

- I first solicited Luis up in Norcal to test fit, only to have him let me know that the ATI damper's outer shell is too large and hits to the timing pointer. JC noted that this is their standard damper size, and that it cannot be made smaller. Two options were offered:

1) cut off/shorten stock pointer
2) cut off inner lip of damper

Option 2 was chosen. Damper was modified, sent back to me for retesting.

- I do not have the VE running in my P10 yet, so I asked Kyle for help. He was willing to test fit...


Now, yes the outer shell that drives the alternator and A/C is larger than stock, however it has to do with engineering packaging and the way the damper is incorporated into the design. The inner shell is same size as stock, so it will not contribute to any water pump cavitation issues (at least no more so than before).

This isn't for everyone. I already can hear people ask/talk/complain about the weight (it's about the same weight as stock), but again, if you don't understand why the stock pulley is 2 pieces and has a rubber section sandwitched between the inner and outer halves, then there's no point in me explaining why and how this works.



As far as I know, this damper won't be cheap. Pricing for it should fall somewhere around $450-600 retail.

I'm sending this pulley back to ATI once I get it back from Kyle this week, and hopefully a couple of plated production units can be purchased and installed.

One other thing to note: yes, one of the two belts is overdriven, but it could potentially be offset by a larger alternator pulley. The A/C is not really relevant to the discussion other than when it is turned on and used, and I doubt people will rev the engine to redline with the A/C on...

-alex
 

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mav1178, awesome explanation. I agree with you about the points you make. If you don't understand why a harmonic damper is a good idea then you're not going to understand why you want one. And since it doesn't underdrive that's going to turn people off right away. Since I drive a KA24 I am certainly aware of horrible harmonics. I want an ATI damper!!

If there is any sort of group buy, would I be able to get one for a KA application?
 

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the only thing that i wonder about is the fact that there is no way to make 1 pulley to fit the DE and VE motors. because the 2 use the different oil pump and different size pump spacer, the pulley would sit in 2 different spots on the motors. the pulley would have to be designed so that it fits a VE motor and on a DE you would have to run the VE oil pump spacer. I'm sure this would confuse a lot of people though and could screw some things up.

The price could scare a few people away but I do see high dollar drag racers buying this most likely Especially ones that want to run the 4 CW crank.

I would like to know what the weight is compared to the stock DE and VE pulleys. not just a guess. Some of those crank pulley's are a lot heavier than stock but i'm just curious.
 

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If there is any sort of group buy, would I be able to get one for a KA application?
http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/atiendadoka.html

We had the prototype made and fabbed for our time attack car, and I was the one who test-fitted it and ran it for a week.

I should note that ATI hasn't put much (if any) of it in production. Last I checked, we still need to buy 10 pieces...




the only thing that i wonder about is the fact that there is no way to make 1 pulley to fit the DE and VE motors. because the 2 use the different oil pump and different size pump spacer, the pulley would sit in 2 different spots on the motors. the pulley would have to be designed so that it fits a VE motor and on a DE you would have to run the VE oil pump spacer. I'm sure this would confuse a lot of people though and could screw some things up.

The price could scare a few people away but I do see high dollar drag racers buying this most likely Especially ones that want to run the 4 CW crank.

I would like to know what the weight is compared to the stock DE and VE pulleys. not just a guess. Some of those crank pulley's are a lot heavier than stock but i'm just curious.

Kyle glossed over it, but for some reason the pulley they sent me was identical in dimension to the VE pulley.

I have no idea why this is the case, since this was based off the DE pulley that was supposedly sent in to prototype to begin with, but if anything the spacer would be included and/or be made. That's not much of a concern at this point.

As for weight, it is not light if that's what you are asking about. I'll get you the exact weight on Wednesday when I get it back from Kyle.

-alex
 

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I dropped it off in the mail room this morning. I hope you still have the tracking # that was on the label you included. :)
 

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Just out of curiousity what is the point of the pulley? I know what a stock crank pulley does but they question is "why buy this one?" My crank pulley actually broke but I got a free one from a forum member. I couldn't imagine spending $550 on a single pulley. I couldn't imagine spending it for all the pullies. Is this for some sort of super race application or something. I'm just not getting it.

I have a high port JDM pulley on my car. I don't know what the redline is but I'm sure it's higher then the 7k rpms my 99 has. That's not that fast but how high are you guys revving where the OEM one is not sufficient?

edit: I'm not trying to come off as an ass or put down this product. I am showing my ignorance on the subject and would like to be educated. I do understand what a harmonic balancer or damper does. Just not how this one by ATI is far superior to OEM or even needed.
 

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Just out of curiousity what is the point of the pulley? I know what a stock crank pulley does but they question is "why buy this one?" My crank pulley actually broke but I got a free one from a forum member. I couldn't imagine spending $550 on a single pulley. I couldn't imagine spending it for all the pullies. Is this for some sort of super race application or something. I'm just not getting it.

I have a high port JDM pulley on my car. I don't know what the redline is but I'm sure it's higher then the 7k rpms my 99 has. That's not that fast but how high are you guys revving where the OEM one is not sufficient?

edit: I'm not trying to come off as an ass or put down this product. I am showing my ignorance on the subject and would like to be educated. I do understand what a harmonic balancer or damper does. Just not how this one by ATI is far superior to OEM or even needed.




What does it do?

Look at your stock crank pulley. It is two metal shells with a rubber ring sandwitched in between.

If your engine has a certain number of miles and/or years, the stock rubber ring will look like it is squished out and/or cracked.

The ATI damper is mostly meant for high-end race applications, to be honest. If you have a street driven car and you never take it to the track, you should stick with your stock crank pulley and save money. Or just buy aftermarket underdriven pulleys.

I had one before on my KA and I will never put one of those (underdriven one piece aftermarket crank pulley) ever again.

I wouldn't say this is "superior" to OEM, just that it is better manufactured (instead of the damper portion being a rubber ring "melted" into the assembly, it is actually BOLTED to the unit and properly balanced). OEM units are not manufactured this way due to production costs.

Lastly: both ATI and I agree that this will basically be bought by "those who know they will need it". We both agree that there won't be enough demand for these to ever recover the costs ATI's engineering spent making these, but you can't please everyone.

I kinda asked them to make this because I felt that FWD SR20 owners would at least appreciate the fact that this was available...

-alex
 

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Tried accessing thier site all day. It won't open and then my IE crashes.

My crank pulley fell apart after 150k miles or so. As did the pulley on my pathfinder. I never take my car to the track so like you said I should stick to OEM. I see now how the ATI is constructed better. It is great that something like this is available for us.

I too had a UR pulley on my KA. I didn't notice any negative affects, nor did I see to much gain. I had it on there for almost 100k but again I never raced the car.

still seems like this fine piece is way over engineered for a piece that the OEM part has been more then sufficient for the majority of people.
 

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mav1178, you say you had one on a KA. Can you give me more detail about the difference you felt between the ATI damper and the one piece aftermarket ones? Did it help your KA's NVH? Did you have Nismo or some other stiffer mounts?

I'm really hoping that this damper will allow the KA to approach (obviously not equal), but approach the smoothness of an SR or any other typical "smooth" engine.

Basically, is it effective on KAs?
 

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still seems like this fine piece is way over engineered for a piece that the OEM part has been more then sufficient for the majority of people.
Perhaps, but the OEM unit might go bad (the rubber ring on my VE stock pulley is showing cracks).

OEM units are designed to last past the warranty period, and everything else beyond that point is borrowed time.



mav1178, you say you had one on a KA. Can you give me more detail about the difference you felt between the ATI damper and the one piece aftermarket ones? Did it help your KA's NVH? Did you have Nismo or some other stiffer mounts?

I'm really hoping that this damper will allow the KA to approach (obviously not equal), but approach the smoothness of an SR or any other typical "smooth" engine.

Basically, is it effective on KAs?
On the KA it made a difference, but not a gigantic one. It made no difference as far as NVH was concerned since I ran Nismo mounts + 1 piece aluminum DSS driveshaft, but the engine revved a bit smoother at 4000+RPM.

I had it for approximately 2 weeks on my KA.

-alex
 

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So, what did you do with it after you took it off? Why did you take it off? Do you still have it?
 
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