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Discussion Starter #1
For the last couple months my P10 has been developing a thump/vibration at speed that seems to be coming from the front driver's side wheel. It is quite audible, and can be felt by my feet slightly at times, although most of the time is is simply heard, not really felt too much. The brakes dont affect the sound... The sound also goes away when taking somewhat hard left hand turns, although even though the sound is gone when turning I can still slightly feel the thump/vibration still. WHen the car is turned to the right at any speed the sound is most audioble and the vibrations and roughness are at their worst.

I wasnt 100% sure it was my WB, but today on a whim I pushed my car with my foot by the front tire and there is a little clunk in the hub indicating play at 12 and 6 o'clock. This would be a bad bearing correct?



ALso, would the best route on a WB be purchase a used one and have the new bearing pressied into it so it can be a bolt and unbolt affair? Or is it simple enough that I can just put the knuckle in a vice to remove the races and then take it to a shop to get pressed in easily over the course of the daY??

Finally, will a non-oem wheel bearing met oem quality when it comes to these? ANy to avoid?

I appreciate anyones input on the subject of wheelbearings and their nuances :) :smoke:
 

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Pushing on the top and bottom of the tire and getting play is indicative of either a worn wheel bearing or worn ball joint. However, I would expect it to make noise most of the time. Noise only on turns is typical of a worn outer CV joint on the axle. You should check all three.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
jjacob said:
Pushing on the top and bottom of the tire and getting play is indicative of either a worn wheel bearing or worn ball joint. However, I would expect it to make noise most of the time. Noise only on turns is typical of a worn outer CV joint on the axle. You should check all three.

The bearing DOES make noise ALL the time when I drive. It just lessens/worsens with turning.

The axles and balljoints are all new and in fine condition. No clicking or knocking from the axles.
 

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BObby12many said:
I wasnt 100% sure it was my WB, but today on a whim I pushed my car with my foot by the front tire and there is a little clunk in the hub indicating play at 12 and 6 o'clock. This would be a bad bearing correct?
Jack the car up and wiggle the tire the same way with your hands. If there is any play your wheel bearings are shot. Replace them as soon as you possibly can, those will worsen quickly.

Best bet, to buy a set of bearings from www.everythingg20.com or your local dealer/napa/autozone and have a shop press them in. Youll have to remove the entire spindle assembly to do that. If you have the proper tools you can do it yourself.
 

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Like Pat said. It's your wheel bearing. You should be able to get everything off if you have the tools and inclination. But you will need a shop to press in the bearing. Any local auto parts store with a machine shop can do it for you.
Pat is also right in that these bearings will get worse faster than you think. Replace it now before it damages the hub.
 

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ahh, wheel bearings, a common problem with p10's, odds are it is where all the torque goes. normally OEM ones last around 60,000 miles from what nissan and dealerships observed. as far as replacing it you have to take the whole bottom of the suspension out, I would suggest taking it to a shop to do but it is possible to do at home except the pressing in. Don't buy a remanufactored one or you will be replacing it soon, also try taking out the white grease that come in them and put in red wheel bearing grease and they should last longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the great advice guys!

I hope to have an entire knuckle in my posession soon so I will be able to get the bearing pressed in before I start this prject....


No special tools are needed besides maybe a breakerbar and chisel for the ball joints correct?
 

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Go easy on the ball joint unless you are going to replace the lower control arm and ball joint assembly. That's not a bad idea if you have a high mileage car. Lower control arm is not too expensive.
You will need to replace the wheel bearing seal also.
 

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DO NOT USE A CHISEL/PICKLE FORK ON YOUR BALL JOINTS!!!

You will destroy the rubber boot on them. Use one of these...



You can purchase one for $20 or less from Harbor Freight or JCW

Some people say this thing doesnt fit, but you have to slide the axle out of the hub a bit for it to work.. Ive never had a problem with it, just be sure to put the nut ontop of the threads before you crank down on it so you dont damage the threads.
 

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I bought one exactly like this one

Ball Joint Remover - Sealey AK381

Doesnt look much different than this one, guess the shiny one will be easier to clean.

Ball Joint Separator Cap 19mm 13914 Draper N140
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yahnozha said:
I bought one exactly like this one

Ball Joint Remover - Sealey AK381

Doesnt look much different than this one, guess the shiny one will be easier to clean.

Ball Joint Separator Cap 19mm 13914 Draper N140

Thanks dude....

I was planning on the ol' BFH and pry-bar... but when I think about it I have done that so many times with shitty results that it would be nice to have a seperator/remover of sorts.

Hopefully Northern Tool will have something very similar, as I would rather make a trip locally then wait for shipping.

After a bath in Zep45 Im thinking the whole knuckle swap will only take me a few hours, tops. We will see.


Still on the search for a spindle/knuckle.....
 
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