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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So my gf is dogsitting up in the mountains.
I decided to be nice and come up to hang w/her.
So I'm getting on the on-ramp and the car is hesitating to go....
I give it some gas and it downshifts (this is the auto) but it seems to struggle even more....? wha???
I let off the gass a lil and it seems to have hit the sweet spot, there is that acceleration!!!
Um wait, its hesitating again..... I let off the gas more and it upshifts (going up a mountain being in 4th going 40mph no good)....

I gas, I d/shift, I go slow... car struggles... I quit!
Turned on the emergency flashers and go 40 up the mountain....

When I get off the highway I emmediatly park and notice that my oil light turns on (only when at complete stop, didnt do this @ all when driving)...

OH NO NOT the oil light! thats bad...
I just did an oil change today, how can the oil light be on?...

Now that I turned off my car (scary oil light) I go to check the oil...
Pop the hood,
put hood on hood prop,
look in direction of dipstick

WHA??? HUh???

I notice that my O2 sensor (really the nut the o2 goes in) is RED HOT.
I tried to take a picture but it didnt come out well @ all.
As Im standing there wondering what misfortune struck me I hear my radiator gurgling like my drunkin stomach after taco bell. gugrl gurgle glug..
No lost coolant (from the looks of the resivoir) no leaks spewing on the ground..

So to recap:
Car extremly sluggy over 3k rpms
O2 got RED HOT!
Oil light turns on when stopped.
Radiator gurgles feircly


Is this it for the auto I just got?
Am I going to have to beat up my manual daily driving again?
Tstat? Radiator? Clogged cat?
Any Ideas?
Thanks
Dan

PS: car passed emissions 2 days ago w/flying colors...

PPS: why does this thread have to be my 1000th? Should been a happy thread @1000
 

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You didn't say if the oil level was correct.

Make sure coolant level is correct and restart the car and drive it around keeping an eye on the temp gauge. If it starts going high, then you may have a bad thermostat.

The other thing that could cause this is a blown head gasket. I would suggest you do a compression check first. Check for coolant in the oil (will look like mayonaise on the oil fill cap). Also check for oil in the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the oil level is right on.
Last night when this all happened the temp gauge was fine... Ill drive it around soon to make sure when the heat is not running it stays fine.
I sure hope your wrong bout the head gasket...Tho that might explain the weird gurgling I heard last night
No milky oil (like I said tho, just changed the oil yesterday)
The coolant level is fine, although it is discolored (orange, like the GM coolant)
It has been that way since I bought it.
I think it was just filled w/GM coolant is all cause its still very thin, and its not brownish pure orange..
No smoke of any color out the exhaust....
Lets hope its not the head gasket..

Any other ideas, thing I should check (beside compression, which I dont have the tools for)
 

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My car did the same gurgle sound when it was about to overheat, and i know i have a leaky headgasket. But check the radiator fluid for milkyness. Also with the car running look and see if you have bubbles in the radiator fluid. If so then you have a blown headgasket. I know mine isnt blown it just leaks because it doesnt have a good seal. But i have had a car with one blown.

Honestly if its a headgasket its no biggie. Just go buy a headgasket,intake mani gasket,exhaust mani gasket and a valve cover gasket and change em. Its not hard at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SleakG20 said:
My car did the same gurgle sound when it was about to overheat, and i know i have a leaky headgasket. But check the radiator fluid for milkyness. Also with the car running look and see if you have bubbles in the radiator fluid. If so then you have a blown headgasket. I know mine isnt blown it just leaks because it doesnt have a good seal. But i have had a car with one blown.

Honestly if its a headgasket its no biggie. Just go buy a headgasket,intake mani gasket,exhaust mani gasket and a valve cover gasket and change em. Its not hard at all.
I think my car prolly wanted to overheat, but 25 degree's outside might have helped (plus I was running the heater..)
The radiator fluid seemed pretty clear, not milky....
Look where to see if it bubles? The radiator cap?
I always heard that a blown headgasket is warranting a new engine, I also thought it was a real tough job... Easy? huh I'll have to search, I can do work on the car.


citystreetsbimmer said:
clogged cat
I would rather that than a blown headgasket, it would make sence (in my mind at least) that this could cause the red hot O2....
What makes you say cat? Has this happened to you?


THx all
 

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SleakG20 said:
My car did the same gurgle sound when it was about to overheat, and i know i have a leaky headgasket. But check the radiator fluid for milkyness. Also with the car running look and see if you have bubbles in the radiator fluid. If so then you have a blown headgasket. I know mine isnt blown it just leaks because it doesnt have a good seal. But i have had a car with one blown.

Honestly if its a headgasket its no biggie. Just go buy a headgasket,intake mani gasket,exhaust mani gasket and a valve cover gasket and change em. Its not hard at all.
i wouldn't say a headgasket is "no biggie". its a fairly serious job
 

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a few things i would check
a) MAF - which would explain the sluggishness and hesitation (also would explain the glowing red o2 sensor to lean = high combustion and exhaust temps)
b) tranny fluid level -- to high / low causes shift issues
c) check the fuel injectors (take a screwdriver and place it on the top of the injector you should hear a clicking noise just to verify that they are working properly) if no clicking might be another reason for the huge hesitation(can also verify if the coil is good by hooking up an ohm meter good injector =10-14ohms)
d) if the car passed emissions the other day i would say your cat is just fine and not clogged well not yet
e) If you have access to a compression o/r leakdown tester try and test your car -- my guess is your motor is fine its something else that's causing some issues
f) also check and make sure your alternator and battery are strong enough (e.g. are charging right since its like 25 degrees outside)

good luck and let us know what you find

joe


if you lived in utah i would let you come over and use my leakdown gauge and compression tester
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wiggy said:
a few things i would check
a) MAF - which would explain the sluggishness and hesitation (also would explain the glowing red o2 sensor to lean = high combustion and exhaust temps)
b) tranny fluid level -- to high / low causes shift issues
c) check the fuel injectors (take a screwdriver and place it on the top of the injector you should hear a clicking noise just to verify that they are working properly) if no clicking might be another reason for the huge hesitation(can also verify if the coil is good by hooking up an ohm meter good injector =10-14ohms)
d) if the car passed emissions the other day i would say your cat is just fine and not clogged well not yet
e) If you have access to a compression o/r leakdown tester try and test your car -- my guess is your motor is fine its something else that's causing some issues
f) also check and make sure your alternator and battery are strong enough (e.g. are charging right since its like 25 degrees outside)

good luck and let us know what you find

joe


if you lived in utah i would let you come over and use my leakdown gauge and compression tester
Huh I never even thought MAF, that probably should have been the 1st thing to pop in my head.
Injectors,fluid, and charge are all good and well...
Thanks joe--- MAF sure sounds possible (probable?) I am definatly thinking its not the head gasket, but MAF..
Well have to see huh
 

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The only problem I see is that a malfunctioning MAF could cause a lot of drivability problems, but I don't see how it could over heat the engine, or boil or put air into the coolant system.
Even running very hot (lean) I would believe that the cars cooling system should have been able to keep up, especially since it sounds like the car was moving along and not stuck in traffic.
But then again I could be wrong. Best to check everything suggested above.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just curious if I were to take it to the mechanic for a compression test, how much should I expect to shill over?
 

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i would be willing to bet its maf it will give almost like a 3k rev limiter
 

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AWOL_g said:
Just curious if I were to take it to the mechanic for a compression test, how much should I expect to shill over?
Maybe P10det can give you an idea. It would not be more than 1 hour of labor. In fact, about 1/2 hour of labor would be correct.
 

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eeepp just saw this thread dan.... vaccum hose? you have brake pressure? i know when one of the lines split a long time ago it acted sluggish with no brakes at all...
 

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jjacob said:
The only problem I see is that a malfunctioning MAF could cause a lot of drivability problems, but I don't see how it could over heat the engine, or boil or put air into the coolant system.
Even running very hot (lean) I would believe that the cars cooling system should have been able to keep up, especially since it sounds like the car was moving along and not stuck in traffic.
But then again I could be wrong. Best to check everything suggested above.
i had a fuel pressure issue on my mustang once, that would cause the fuel pressure to be erratic and drop randomly, and it always made the car overheat. plus if the cooling system is not 100% up to par (old partially clogged radiator, old coolant, old water pump) it could still be the MAF causing the problem. i know in the summer time above 90 degrees with the AC on my car overheats and its fine any other time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I was getting cabin fever up there in the mountains, decided to coast down the mountain to get home.
Everything seemed decent, I wasn't even trying to get it above 2k rpms and it ran fine.
I got to the city and had to use the gas to get up to speed for the onramp..
Then it happened.....
Man my car started knocking sooo loud, really thought a rod might shoot out and impale me as I drive.
It had to start acting up w/like 10% of the drive left!
Anyways I really think the motor is toast (burnt w/extra crumbs).



ewwwww
link for video of loud engine dying
This sucks, I just got the car's plates and tags! what a waste of $$$$
Lucky the car was only $900....
I guess I'll probably part it out and drive the manual as my 1 and only (again)
well for now I'm spent
ttyl
 

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PHUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm sooo pissed to hear that dan.... thats sounds pretty damn serious... well u could opt to either det with a 5 speed or part it out and make some cash... suspension stuff alone will justify coming to chicago and all... i wonder what happened cuz it was babied the whole time it was in the family...
rush
 

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Discussion Starter #19
rushmatic said:
PHUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm sooo pissed to hear that dan.... thats sounds pretty damn serious... well u could opt to either det with a 5 speed or part it out and make some cash... suspension stuff alone will justify coming to chicago and all... i wonder what happened cuz it was babied the whole time it was in the family...
rush
I was hoping you didnt see this! lol...
I am still not sure whats wrong, just whatever it is, it is bad...
I swear I didn't ignore it @ all, seems like overnight it just crapped, cause it was running great then...

I still dont know what I'm going to do w/it.
Might just take all the parts for my other p10, sell whats left.
This engine might have life in it, maybe I could fix it (<---doubtful)
Or I do have a M/T lying around waiting for a 5th gear, might be time to learn to swap engines on these.... I doubt my garage manager (lol grandpa) would like that though..

----------------------------------------------
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On a side note is it even worth taking to my mech for a diagnosis?
I usaully do all my own work, but he's much better at figuring out whats wrong..





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Discussion Starter #20
AWOL_g said:
AWOL_g said:
On a side note is it even worth taking to my mech for a diagnosis?
I usaully do all my own work, but he's much better at figuring out whats wrong..





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Bumpity....
I'm stuck in the cabin w/a foot of snow, cant do any work...
Just curious to see if anyone thinks there might still be hope for this engine...
Do I just have to get in the engine to see if I can spot something wrong?

BTW I checked the maf v yesterday and it was low .003 so that shouldn't be the problem...
I'm thinking maybe oil pump, or oil sensor thing....
W/ all the snow we got recently when I was driving I had to smash over some snow/ice pack stuff.....Maybe I dented the oil pan and it just cant get oil...?
Too bad my car is in the city and I cant look @ it
 
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