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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those who don't know already, A friend of mine and I have fabricated a test pair of negative camber control arms! So far they have been put through a few months of daily abuse, two autocross events and a track day with no issues! The effects of the negative camber has been nothing but pure positive satisfaction. Eliminating gross amounts of under-steer on corner entry and improving my over all cornering speed, I have finally found the final piece I needed for an extremely balanced setup. So far I have been running on some horrendous 340 tread war street tires and kept up with some of my competition running Extreme Performance and r-comp tires! So I will be making the switch and may possibly end up wanting even more camber.

THE PLAN- Create two models of control arms. Street version -2deg of camber. Race Version -3deg of camber.

Materials- The arms will be made out of MIG welded or TIG welded DOM steel tubing packed with polyurethane bushings. ( For an additional cost i will offer both arms in a TIG welded variation for an additional $50.00, but I will assure everyone that the MIG welded variant will be VERY strong and will take a beating! of course I will test them myself before any orders are fulfilled.)

Finish- Not only will the arms be powder coated my signature color (undisclosed atm) but they will also have a cnc'ed gusset plate with my logo. I want to sell a finished professional part.

Parts: Arms will have replaceable grease zerks and bushings available from me.

Currently I believe I will be able to sell the Street Version and Race Version for $350.00 + shipping and for and additional $50 a tig welded variant can be made to order.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE I want feedback on these arms. I really need to know what YOU GUYS want and expect.



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Thanks, your friendly neighborhood NissanNate :p
 

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I'd be in for a set of the street version.

Also you may want to offer something in between, say a -2, which will push out to around -2.5 or -2.7 under load. While I run -3 pretty regularly as well, with it comes caster woes, darting, pulling, and related items.

Also I'd like to see a serviceable bushing set, if possible. It would be nice to just swap bushings out rather then the whole UCA. While SuperPro's aren't the cheapest, its still much cheaper then buying new arms all the time.

Anywho, just my 2 cents.
 

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...just a word to anyone using these for competition with NASA, using these modified control arms means taking more points in which might throw you into another class (for example, you are allowed to put whatever bushings you want into factory stock LCAs but modifying the control arm itself is not a 'free' mod)

If we were to try to use something like this on our former G20, it would have put us into another class that we would not have been competitive in unless we invested even more money into engine mods to be faster so would have had a competitive chance. <-- although if we ever do get another g20 to build into a track car, it would most likely be built for E class instead of F so we would do Cams, different MAF and other stuff and potentially something like this exact mod so I'll be curious to see what people say about it after repeated longer-term use!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I forgot to clarify one thing. The neg 3 and 4 degrease of camber will be based of a modestly lowered car. Lower then stock but not so low your f***ing up your roll center etc. So depending on your ride height the camber will vary. This is just how our suspension works.
 

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^ um, keep in mind the front wheels do need a decent enough footprint for straight line speed too. -4 might be a good thing for tight autocross driving but I am not-so-sure it would be ideal for roadcourse. Even my former spec miata was -2.75 in front and it was RWD
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The plan is to maintain close to factory caster. This should negate any darting/instability although with any camber mod, steering feel becomes lighter because the contact patch at 0 steering angle is reduced.

I will also consider making a milder negative camber model if there are enough people wanting them. The cost and time necessary to design and fabricate a jig etc for each arm is pretty big.

The bushings in my arms will be serviceable and sold through me.

Thanks guys keep it coming!!!!
 

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Sooooo, just to clarify...someone like Josie who is lowered like 9" (lol) or me who is almost all the way down on Tein SS would be looking at what sort of angle when all is said and done? I will have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 300HP in the coming weeks and I don't want to be trying to put that to the pavement on 2" of contact patch. :cruisin:
 

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Sooooo, just to clarify...someone like Josie who is lowered like 9" (lol) or me who is almost all the way down on Tein SS would be looking at what sort of angle when all is said and done? I will have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 300HP in the coming weeks and I don't want to be trying to put that to the pavement on 2" of contact patch. :cruisin:
i need u to get ur car as many features as possible when u finish that up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
^ um, keep in mind the front wheels do need a decent enough footprint for straight line speed too. -4 might be a good thing for tight autocross driving but I am not-so-sure it would be ideal for roadcourse. Even my former spec miata was -2.75 in front and it was RWD
Well keep in mind the MOTO IQ race car only has -3 degrease of camber and they complaint ALL the time about being limited to just -3 deg etc etc etc.
ALthough if people want a -2 and -3 model instead of -3 and -4 Im super good with that! I will make what the people want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
-3 is pretty hefty, i think street would best be something moderate like say -1.5
ATM i wont be able to afford these, but hopefully i can pick them up sometime. i thought these would be more in thr ~250 range.
I would love to offer these in the 250 range but unfortunately to do so the arms would have to sacrifice A LOT. Because these are a suspension part and in some sense they keep your shit together I don't want to skimp in any way.
 

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Well keep in mind the MOTO IQ race car only has -3 degrease of camber and they complaint ALL the time about being limited to just -3 deg etc etc etc.
ALthough if people want a -2 and -3 model instead of -3 and -4 Im super good with that! I will make what the people want.
I'd say your better off -2 and -3. When I'm not tracking the G I leave it at -2, but I also correct the camber based on the ride height as you mentioned, so you'd almost have to find an "average" height and make them to that (common, most people don't have stock rides any more).

I have access to one of these: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=1677&catid=5


So every time I adjust ride height I re-adjust camber, but most people would probably prefer a set it and forget it method.
 

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I don't know about anyone else, but I would never want -4 in front for a FWD roadrace car... I shutter to think about multiple visits to china beach with -4 in front at MidOhio for example *braking from high speeds is what I am referring to here btw
 
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