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Hi folks,

I recently bought a 92 G20 with 94k mi. The car sometimes stalls right after I crank the engine. I also noticed that the idle is really rough and the meter hangs around .5 RPM. Shame on me for buying a car with problems but the car is really a beauty. Anyone have suggestions to get rid of this problem? I'm gonna change the o2 sensor tommorrow, could it be anything else though? Thanks.

-twizy
 

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Have a look at all the intake pipe work, make sure it's not damaged. If the idle bypass hose is restricted that would do it. try reseting the base idle (instructions on se-r.net somewhere) but don't over do it, as this might not be the problem. Check the condition of the filter as well
 

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I've experienced this several times in 4 years with my '94 P10. If yours turns out to be occasional like mine then all I can say is that setting the timing and TPS may help a lot as I've not had this happen since adjusting them.

I'm also convinced it's something to do with the battery being a bit low at the same time as trying to start the car when it's not been started for a couple of days, this being the common factor in almost all of these occurences. The engine fires up OK but runs at 500rpm and won't get going - if it dies then it just won't restart even though it cranks over. Charging the battery for half-hour always got it started properly every time it happened. It's almost as if the car starts up in some 'error mode' when this happens, perhaps the ECU gets corrupted when the battery voltage drops a lot during turning the engine over.

Or perhaps the fuel pump hasn't got enough power when the fuel has drained back down the line over a couple of days and the battery is a bit down.
 

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Yup, common problem on the P10's. I'd say 9 times out of 10 when a P10 comes in with a low idle/stalling when cold problem it needs a carbon cleaning. At the dealer that includes cleaning the throttle body/plate/intake mani with throttle plate cleaner and running a fuel injection cleaner directly into the fuel rail. Then we adjust the base idle. If you don't wanna go to the dealer I would recommend putting a bottle of GOOD fuel injector cleaner in when your tank is low, fill up with premium and buy a can of throttle cleaner. Just remove the intake tubing and spray that stuff in there and on a rag and clean inside the throttle body good...alot of build-up likes to collect in there. Then adjust your idle. Good luck.
 

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G20-tech said:
My other ride is your Mom.

HAHAAHAH.. thats a good one techy
 

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so i just take off the pipe coming from the airbox and spray the cleaner right into it? with the engine off? sorry i'm new to this stuff
 

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i dont know if this helps but my 96 had a similar problem, whenever i came to stops the idle dropped and would bounce around sometimes die. but i read through the ser forum and found an article about cleaning out the AACV, its located on the opposite side of the air intake of the throttlebody. but i just went ahead and took apart the whole TB and cleaned it out aswell but that seemed to do the trick, only costed me a buck for the carbcleaner and about a hour of my free time. good luck

matt
 

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Yeah blkG20, with the engine off, just remove the intake tubing and open the throttle plate using the linkage on the side of the throttle body and spray the cleaner in, spray all over the throttle plate and body. Use a clean rag and wipe off the plate and inside of the throttle body. When you go to start the engine after you've put everything back together, it will take long to start and you'll have to pump the gas pedal and the exhaust will smoke like crazy...just rev it good and let it sit and idle for a while to burn off all the cleaner and carbon.
 

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any thoughts on the thing from se-r.net about that carbon stuff sticking to your valves? ill try to find the link but its posted in another thread somewhere.
 

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is it a bitch to actually take the throttle body off? should i even bother or just clean it while its still attached?

also xenobait which hose is the idle bypass hose?

the reason i ask is my idle problems are returning but it's a little different this time around. the idle stays at about 500 rpm and nearly stalled a few times when stopping (im convinced it would have if i hadnt given it gas.) one thing im not sure of is whether the stalling also had something to do with the fact that i have to bump start the car now, because the stalling thing stopped once i had driven a few blocks. the idle stayed at around 500 consistently though.
 

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I'd say just take it to the dealer. Mine idled kind of rough when I bought it, but a tuneup helped, and I think I am going to have the dealer do the carbon cleaning now because my idle still sometimes bounces around.
 

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Yea dude i have the same prob..mine stalls when i put it in reverse..and when i run my AC my RPM's are runnin' low i thought it was due to my install on my gauges but i seen some peeps talkin about it so im goin to go with the o2 sensors fo rthe prob..my mom's boyfriend is a mechanic and hopefully that is the prob..i dunno..:-\
 

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yeah its a few ks below 90000 so its probably time for a good tune up. thats just a little out of my budget right now. i need to find something i can do myself to keep it running until i get a little more cash.

i had idle problems before but the weird thing about this one is the idle stays low all the time, not just when im braking. thats why im thinking it might just be the idle is set too low. anyone who knows please speak up.
 

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man my car idals real rough, at 500rpms's also. but the differece is when i drive my car it will stall WHILE IN GEAR. who knows, i am thinkin i have a bad brushing in my fuel pump, but havent gotten round to hooken up a low voltage meter to it.
 

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I used to own an 88 Isuzu Impulse Turbo that started to drop its idle speed, and would quit and die at lights. I tried to adjust the idle speed, have the car tuned up, andI changed the plugs and had the injectors cleaned and nothing worked. This went on for months. Then one day, the battery just died. I recharged it, but it was stone cold dead. Bought a new battery, and never had a problem with the idle speed again. My guess is that the battery was starting to go for months, and with the excess draw on the alternator, the timing and spark were affected. Just an anecdote.
 

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yea ive had my prob. for about a month now ive tried everything to ..gettin a new distrubutor,new fuel pump,spark plugs,..only thng i really didnt get was plug wires..i got them today put em on and my g is running fine..i got some 7mm bosch high performance plug wires..well that was my prb..u should look in ot that...now i can finally drive with my AC on..see yall
:rambo:
 

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blk_g20 said:
i thought oem nissan ones were better or the engine? how much did u pay for the bosch ones? thanks
The OEM's ARE the best ones. Period.
 
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