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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to pick up my axle tomorrow and i want to know, i looked under the car and it seems there is a bearing sort of thing to the passanger axle, then it has the grease fitting, then the axle then the fitting at the hub. My question is, how do i remove this? Can i pry the bearing (if it is splined) out of that little bearing thing. Also is it usually stuck on pretty badly when removing the wheel bearing nut? It looks like i can get away with not pulling the wheel bearing but just removing the shaft with the heel bearing and worry about that later. Any suggestions to anyone whos done it before?
Will the wheel bearing have to be pressed in/out?
 

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Big TIGHT 36mm nut and then it's loose at the hub end...may need a tap to free it.

The bearing is held into the carrier bracket with 3 bolts (12mm).

I usually remove the tie rod end and king pin/third link to get enough clearance to get it out of the hub.
 

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First, remove the axle nut. I hope you have an impact wrench because it is a bitch to get off. If you need one they have corded electric ones for $80 at Harbor Freight. You will also need a 36 mm axle nut socket. I had to run the impact wrench for at least two minutes to get the nut loosened, probably more.

Then, remove the top of the knuckle from the control arm and unscrew three bolts holding the axle into the ring attached to the engine. The knuckle will bend down and you can finagle the outer part of the axle out of the wheel hub. Then it should just slide right out after you undo the three bolts.

On my Subaru there was also a rollpin holding the axle into the transmission. Pain in the butt. Count your blessings that you don't have to deal with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
can i re-use the cotter pins? ive only ever worked on RWD cars. obviously tranny fluid will leak yes? if so where is the fill for the tranny? and lasly, i can just pull it from that little joint piece right? and just disconnect the linkage from the hub, remove hub, slide shaft out correct?
 

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I reuse mine, unless they break.
I forgot about that actually, I removed the wheel, removed pin and nut cover, then replaced the wheel so I could drop it back down to undo that nut.

The bearing sometimes gets stuck a little bit. It will usually rotate though, so you can rotate it slightly then lever between the bolt 'tabs' on the bracket and bearing...you'll see what I mean if you find it necessary.

Fluid.... http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23333
 

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I don't think any fluid leaked from my tranny, even with the axles disconnected for an extended period of time and the transmission being moved around on the ground and switched between engines. Is that bad? Do I not have anything in there?
 

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Interesting!

I took the thing for a drive a few days ago and it drives and shifts okay. Only problem is it's hard to shift into reverse, but that's been a problem it's had since it was pretty much new. Would that be possible with no fluid in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
should the wheel bearing be torqued back on with the car on the ground or off the ground? should i put i back on like a lug but where you snug them with the heel off the ground then tighten with the car's weight on it?
 

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Luminar said:
should the wheel bearing be torqued back on with the car on the ground or off the ground? should i put i back on like a lug but where you snug them with the heel off the ground then tighten with the car's weight on it?
Once it's snug, it shouldn't make a difference if the car is in air, or on the ground when you tighten the nut. But.. if you're having to tighten it with a breaker bar.. and with out an impact.. you'll probably need to snug it up with it in the air and then put the wheel back on, then lower the car to the ground to tighten it up (basically the reverse of what Mark (Mr. Google) mentioned earlier. :)

Also, when you goto take the axle out of the wheel bearing, there were two instructions in different posts above I would suggest. Go ahead and follow Mark's directions, but also disconnect the tie rod from the hub/spindle. By doing this (and disconnecting the upper link), you'll easily be able to get the axle out of the wheel hub.

As for the axle sticking in the wheel hub splines.. I will sometimes apply a little bit of grease to the splines when I put an axle in, to keep it from getting stuck (I've worked on some that I had to more than "tap" to get out). Also, if you do end up having to tap on the axle end, put the nut back on so that it's flush with the end of the axle, so it doesn't mess up the threads or the end of the axle.

As for draining the tranny, there is a drain plug on the bottom drivers side (I believe). you can fit a ratchet in there (1/2" think it is?). But I usually end up putting in a breaker bar and kicking it, to knock it loose. Then there is a fill plug on the front of the tranny (well when looking at the tranny from the front of the car). It's the same typee of square insert, but smaller, use a 3/8" ratchet (I think).

Hope this helps..


thefultonhow said:
I don't think any fluid leaked from my tranny, even with the axles disconnected for an extended period of time and the transmission being moved around on the ground and switched between engines. Is that bad? Do I not have anything in there?
As soon as I remove an axle from my tranny *gaaallluuummmpp*, a bunch of tranny fluid comes out. If none does, you have an issue (not enough tranny fluid in there).
 

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if you can you can have a buddy press the brake pedal for you while your torque the nut to specs, I suggest you do the recommended torque in order not to mess up the wheel bearings.
 

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gomd3 said:
if you can you can have a buddy press the brake pedal for you while your torque the nut to specs, I suggest you do the recommended torque in order not to mess up the wheel bearings.
I would agreew ith gomd3 on this one.. but we usually just adjust the torque setting on my impact down a notch and impact it on. :)

Not too tight though..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
and the torque specs are? =P
 

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gomd3 said:
....dang I think they were around 200 ish... not to sure... wait found it 174 to 231ft/lbs
Ah Jorge.. you beat me too it!! :) yeah.. 174 to 231.. so make em tight..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
christ.... guess i'm ganna have to go borrow a torque wrench from a buddy that goes that high.
 

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markbuts3 said:
As I said....TIGHT!!


And Kyle, sort your parentheses out :p
Ok.. so I missed one around the "Mr. Google" comment.. :lick:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hahaha thanks guys much appreciated. ganna tackle this next week or something when i've got a few days where i an go without a car.
 

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The axle should only take about 4 hours max if you have all the parts and tools. No need to have the car out of commission for a while. Even having to fight with the rollpin on my Subaru it took me an afternoon for that car (and that was my first ever major mechanical repair), and if you rent a tie rod end puller from Autozone it's even easier on the G20 IMO.
 
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