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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys got some new questions

Lately I’ve been focusing on getting my car to peak performance with simple bolt on mods and first off were the headers, Intake sys, stabalizer bars F/B, and I’m saving up for JWT S3 cams.

But yesterday while shopping at a parts store I came across some Garret Turbos for sale at an incredible price! (NEW $300). Now they guys there told me that they themselves did not do the install but I could talk to a guy who did. To make the long story short here is what happened:

I went to the guys shop and was currently installing one of those turbos on (get this) a Hyundai!:confused: He told me the turbo model was a GARRET GT1495 or a T4 (?) I know nothing about turbos so maybe this one is for a diesel engine. . . or maybe they are the same and It does not matter. (I don’t know that’s why I’m setting this post) he told me I needed a Blow Off valve, Turbo Gage, and an oil intercooler as the turbo is cooled of by oil and not water. Needed custom piping and finally to reduce my compression.

I’m cool with all the parts, I always like to be able to take things off if something goes wrong (hence bolt on mods) but two things that worry me are reducing my compression and taping into the oil sys of my engine to cool of the turbo (drilling :depressed ).

Do I really need to lower my compression and how can I do this? What happened to the intercooler? Don’t I need one? What is the safe limit in lbs. I can run before destroying my engine he said the turbo can put out up to 22 lbs. but he recommends 8 at the most.

PART 2: after talking turbo for a while we went for a spin on the just finished Hyundai. . . the car ran quite well with its 1,500 cc engine and made a beautiful sound Pfft! After speeding up and down an abandoned road testing the acceleration we came to a stop and popped the hood to see why so much smoke was coming from the engine bay. Turns out the engine spit out the oil rod and splattered oil all over the engine also the oil cap seemed to be leaking oil. Could this have been do to excess oil temperature and internal pressure that the Hyundai engine could not handle or is there something really wrong?

He also told me I had to let my car run for 10 min before turning it off (to let the turbo cool)

Does this setup sound safe to you guys?


Thanks
 

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I don't know much about turbos that are NOT being used on some of the setups guys are putting on their SR20. But judging from the number scheme of GT series turbos I'm guess the GT1495 (if this is indeed the number or close to it) would be WAY to small for our motors.

You're better off getting a used BB setup from someone. The t25 is about the smallest turbo you'd want to go with.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
To small to blow?

You know I do have my doubts on its size specially the intakes and exhausts as they measure about 1 in. in diameter but then again since I’ve never really held a Turbo I don’t know What I should be looking for.
What I will do is take some pictures or maybe a short AVI (movie) of it and post it so that you can see it.

Any comments on the lack of an intercooler or the lowered compression?

Thanks

Oh. . .

I’ve been searching the web for a pic of the turbo but have not had any luck yet, also it seemed to work well on their Hyundai wouldn’t it work on our SR20DE? I’m not looking to be running a lot of boost maybe 6 to 7 lbs. Max.
 

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If I understand things correctly, lower compression allows you to run higher boost by reducing the chance of detonation (pinking, whatever).

I would think that if you are only running light boost then you could get away without lowering the compression, but I could be very wrong.

If you were going to lower the compression you could do it in a couple of ways, firstly by getting some DET pistons (BB/Gtir or something) or secondly by getting a one of the thicker metal gaskets. I'd suggest going with the pistons, as turbo pistons were designed for the job, yours weren't.



The intercooler does an entirely seperate job. Turbos get hot. VERY hot. the air they are taking in is heated both by the compression and but the heat of the turbo.

Engines like cold air, so the intercooler goes between the turbo and the rest of the engine (hence 'inter') and allows the heat to be transferred to the air outside the induction system, so cooling the intake air. Think of an intercooler like you car's radiator, but for air rather than water.


An oil cooler, which is what I think you were on about is kind of like an intercooler or radiator, but as you've probably guessed, is for the oil. They are worth having because, like i said, turbo's get very hot. The oil takes the heat away from the turbo to stop it getting too hot, and the oil cooler allows the oil to dispose of it's heat elsewhere.


The reason you should allow a car to run (with a turbo timer or just by sitting there) after you have driven it is to keep the oil flowing through the turbo so that it can cool while off boost. If you just turn the engine off, the oil doesn't flow through the turbo and just sits there getting hot, so the turbo doesn't cool properly.

Bit of a long post but I hope it helps.
 

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If you are thinking about lowering your compression and pulling apart your motor then you should just spend the extra money and get a turbo that is sized properly for the SR20. T25/28/etc.

xenobait: The heating effects of the ambiant temp of the turbo housing and blades is not as dramatic as the heating effects of the compression of the air. I'm guessing, if it were not for the physics of compressing gasses, I'm going to say the heat exchanged from the turbo, to the air it compresses, would be so small as to not even warrent an intercooler.

Also the oil is mainly used for lubrication of the bearing. Some turbos are also water cooled which would be better at cooling the center section than just oil. Water cooling will also keep too much heat from radiating to the compressor side.
 

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Gman CR said:
Lately I’ve been focusing on getting my car to peak performance with simple bolt on mods and first off were the headers, Intake sys, stabalizer bars F/B, and I’m saving up for JWT S3 cams.

But yesterday while shopping at a parts store I came across some Garret Turbos for sale at an incredible price! (NEW $300).
Well keep saving and once you get about $2000 you can swap a motor....save more and you put on a kit....save even more and you can rebuild the engine, bore out the head, get shit coated, custom exhaust, intercooler and piping, plus all necessary gages and misc stuff.....definately not for the faint of heart and those with shallow pockets....
 

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If you are going to buy the whole setup off of a good deal on a turbo ($300), wait. You can find used T25's online for around that price. They are usually a tad higher, but if you wait long enough I'm sure you could find a rebuilt one for just a little more money and it's sized much better than that turbo is. If it's running low boost on a 1500cc motor, then it'd be way too small for our motors(1998cc), even at lower boost settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Guys I do think you all have good points,

I will still take a picture of the turbo so you can see it (hopefully this afternoon) and send it in for your review. (Maybe it is the one I need)

Moral, if you are going to do something do it right the first time I would hate to be half way through the project and find out it doesn’t work.

I guess more research is entitled.

Thanks
:lol:
 

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Gman CR said:
I went to the guys shop and was currently installing one of those turbos on (get this) a Hyundai!:confused: Thanks
A turbo on a Hyundai?:lol: Maybe they should have put on one of those supercharger(hairdryer) kits form ebay. :p
I seriously doubt that any Hyundai engine is a strong or as durable as the SR20DE.
 

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They did make a turbo hyundai scoupe in '93 but I never had the chance to drive one. Im sure it was a 1.5 or 1.6. I did drive an old 1988 1.6 mazda 323 turbo and that would put a whopping on alot of v6s. And the mazda was stock.

Personally cheap is not the way to go. You get what you pay for, save and do it right
 

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G-Forces said:

xenobait: The heating effects of the ambiant temp of the turbo housing and blades is not as dramatic as the heating effects of the compression of the air. I'm guessing, if it were not for the physics of compressing gasses, I'm going to say the heat exchanged from the turbo, to the air it compresses, would be so small as to not even warrent an intercooler.

Erm, Yeah I said that. I was placing the emphasis on the heat of the turbo because the guy had be told he needed an oil intercooler. ok could have phrased it better I suppose.
 

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What about that twin motor Tiburon that was in that scc shootout a while back? Each motor was turbocharged and making over 300hp, total was something around 625hp. That's insane! It ran a 10.xx on street tires and was insanely fast on the street too. Also, because of the two motors it was able to do the most wicked burnouts I've ever seen. Imagine doing a donut and having the center of the car be the axis of rotation. It looked like it was spinning like a top, it was the weirdest thing I've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pics of the Turbo

Ok Guys went to the shop and took some pics of the turbo, I even got a little video but I'm not sure If I can up load it.

Take a look and tell me if its to small or not.

Thanks

OK How the hell do I post Pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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In theory any turbo would work if you put enough effort in to getting it to work.

Is that the one the used on the 1.5 hyundai? It looks pretty small, though you cant always get a good sense of scale from photos.

Like justin and G-forces said, for an sr20 you'll most likely be wanting a t25 at the smallest.
 

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You would probably need a custom turbo manifold too which might cost you more than just getting a GTI-R or BB manifold for the T25 / T28.
 

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Turbo Hyundai

I saw that issue of SCC with the dual motor hyundai. From what I read it was a pretty ghetto setup, crappy turbos and all. It also had automatic transmissions, but all i have to say is FORWARD GEAR + REVERSE GEAR = CRAZY BURNOUTS
 
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