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Hey everyone, this is one of my first posts to the community, there is a ton of useful information available, and I have never felt a need to ask a question outright until now.

I own a 2000 G20 that I am dropping a W11 DET into. I am about to finish up the engine bay repairs with a final visit from my welder friend (rust sucks) and at that point I am about ready to drop in the new motor. I need to figure out the wiring and though I know what I can do to get it running, thanks to many threads on here, I have not found much info on if or how to get the swapped motor to not throw any codes or CEL's for OBDII, taking into account things like no EGR on the JDM DET, etc.

I know all about the 32-bit/16-bit issues, I have a 99' harness to work with and the factory W11 and P11 ECU's, I am sure the answer to this problem would be inclusive of a new standalone or similar ECU solution that I have not yet considered; but I am not sure how to approach the differences in design concerning emissions on the USDM (OBDII) vs no emissions on the JDM (OBDI). Looking to daily drive this without lights or codes.

I have not found any W11 -> P11 swap posts/threads that go into much detail here and I can understand why a lot of people doing or looking to doing these swaps would not be as concerned in this regard, for multiple reasons. This was something I expected to run into and I am at the point where I need to get it figured out. Needless to say this is my first real swap, and I'm doing it alone. Any direction that can be provided, would help me a ton.

Thanks in advance, this is a great community and I apologize if this post/thread is misplaced..
 

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w11 ecm. nistune. Jwt. Cant just 94 - 96 ecm and intake. Compression different. 2000+ usdm ecu will go fail safe with emission cel. I ducking hate auto spell correct. Or have welder add the egr bung. But that will lose boost in itself.
 

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It depends what you are looking for in the end. A standalone or Nismotronic and rewire with a complete retune would be the best option. But we have used a 99' ecu, stock 99' head & cams, intake, harness, with a AEM FIC 6 piggyback and made 365 whp with a GTX3071r on my brothers P11 with a W11 engine. It takes a lot of playing around with to make it happy but is a very cheap option. I myself like the RR 2000+ ECU with a FIC 6. For the RR setup you would want the RR head, Intake, wiring, and piggyback. If you are playing around with a stock ECU setup it is always best to keep the matching head and intake so you aren't mixing up wiring & sensors and it keeps the ECU happy. I have seen some people use the stock W11 ecu and also GTIR ecu's and they work well. You will have to do some deep digging for the rewire info to go that way. You can bolt about any head to a W11 since it is a 8.5:1 CR. The only head/cam combo on a W11 that I would clay/measure valve clearance would be a VE/VET head with N1 cams to make sure a valve wouldn't smack a piston.
 

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It depends what you are looking for in the end. A standalone or Nismotronic and rewire with a complete retune would be the best option. But we have used a 99' ecu, stock 99' head & cams, intake, harness, with a AEM FIC 6 piggyback and made 365 whp with a GTX3071r on my brothers P11 with a W11 engine. It takes a lot of playing around with to make it happy but is a very cheap option. I myself like the RR 2000+ ECU with a FIC 6. For the RR setup you would want the RR head, Intake, wiring, and piggyback. If you are playing around with a stock ECU setup it is always best to keep the matching head and intake so you aren't mixing up wiring & sensors and it keeps the ECU happy. I have seen some people use the stock W11 ecu and also GTIR ecu's and they work well. You will have to do some deep digging for the rewire info to go that way. You can bolt about any head to a W11 since it is a 8.5:1 CR. The only head/cam combo on a W11 that I would clay/measure valve clearance would be a VE/VET head with N1 cams to make sure a valve wouldn't smack a piston.
This is pretty much exactly what I needed to know. Thanks a million brother.
 
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