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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Custom SPRAY CAN paintjob on front bumper--- 56K, go take a nap--

Ok, so it's not really custom, but more like OEM-- but I thought I'd show it off anyhow, since the G is about to sell and I'm soon to be G-less..

I thought other guys may be glad to see that it's possible to do things yourself and still do them well--

My car is a tan P10, and a chick pulled out in front of me causing minimal damage to the bumper cover, headlight, grille, and corner-----

I bought a bumper cover from U-Pull it for $40 from a blue 93' G20-- the bumper was blue and black, and you see that it is now tan/brown-- Every part that is brown used to be black-- it came out pretty well and looks factory to me-

All the paint was shot from a spray can with a custom mixed single stage paint formulated to match the 3 stage OEM color, and it's darn close-- the brown is a flexible bumper/carpet/vinyl paint-- crazy sounding, but works awesome-- The paint can be put into a can at a body shop supply store, but each can cost me $19!! And this took a can and a half to do-- At least I have some extra left over--

I did all the paint work on my front porch, in open air-- I masked the tan off too early, leaving tons of tape marks all over it, which I then wet-sanded after allowing it to cure for another 2 days--- the results are like factory, maybe even slicker--

Please don't make that mistake I did and mask the fresh paint too early, but it was cool outside here, about 40 deg-- so if it's warm there, a day in the sun and you should be good (the bumper) :) BUT-- wait a week anyway, I know, I know... I hate watching paint dry-

This job boosted my confidence a great deal, and my respect for those guys that do it all the time-- masking this bumper was not fun, and intricate around the fog openings to say the LEAST!

After wet-sanding the tape marks out with 600 first (LIGHTLY!) and 1500 next, followed by rubbing compound, the results are not only good, they're awesome! Sorry the pics don't show the gloss-- I'll try to get a good closeup of the gloss! It proves a paint can can look just as good as a gun, It's just WAY more expensive-- only good for small panels at a time--

Also, you can barely see it, but the lower part of the bumper, maybe the air dam?, was nearly cracked in two, and I melted it back together with a soldering iron, then glued a backing panel on the back of the plastic with a strong epoxy and not only can you barely see the repair, it's fairly strong as well. I have no worries about it holding up for a long time. The crack was nearly 6" long, and made the lower air dam really flimsy, and it ran up and down, so the lower part was nearly split in two-- now it's one smooth piece-- I really outdid myself on this one--

Enjoy--



You can barely see where the air dam/lower part was split in two, dead center of the lower piece--

The Gloss after wet-sanding and hand buffing with compound--





The barely visibly tape marks before wet-sanding --


The tape lines would've broken much cleaner by shooting lighter coats, and pressing the tape down more firmly just before I shot the paint-- I masked it the night before, so some of it released on the edges a little and I just got in a hurry-- :egads:



 

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Discussion Starter #3
MAN that was quick-- I just posted this like a minute ago!!

If I could do it again, I would almost say that it would be easier to paint the entire bumper one color, and just remove the rear bumper and side mouldings and paint them accordingly, along with the rocker panels-- You're probably familiar with this two tone color scheme, and the masking of the bumper was so difficult, I actually think that's true!

The trick to the curves is to use a bunch of short pieces, and let them each progress around the various curves--

And, don't mask until

A: The paint you're masking over is FULLY cured, about 4 days to a week will be hard enough to reject tape marks

B: You're ready to paint-- as the tape will release over time and you'll have run over in small spots that will be a pain in your a$$-- Just go over all the tape lines and press them down firmly before you spray-- it will cut down and eliminate run over-- where paint actually creeps under the masking on the edge due to the tape lifting--

NOTE: ONLY USE BLUE masking tape---- I can't stress this enough, as it will release much easier than standard masking tape-- OR ask the guys at the body shop supply what to use--

Just from me to you-- from experience

Thanks for the compliments!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The paint can be had at any body shop supply store, and if you need it put into a spray can, they can do that too, but you should get them to use their special tool that takes a picture of the paint and uses software to determine a color matched mix--

I would get them to mix up a single stage if I were you, if you're going to paint an entire panel, and a can will cost you from $12 to $20 depending on where you go to get it, so shop around too--

Of course, if your car is newer or has very little fade, which is common with these cars-- the factory color code will match well, but you should make them work with you on a color match before you commit to buying it, as they can lighten or darken it gradually until it matches near perfectly--

As far as being near perfect, it would've been better had I masked the same day I sprayed it, since I waited over night, some of the edges lifted slightly, and since I shot the two coats so heavy, (which looked perfect btw!!) the effect was amplified where you see the little jagged edges on the tape line.... A little time spent pressing the edges down firmly, and shooting lighter coats wouldve given much better results regarding the tape-line being clean, BUT, I'm happy with it regardless, and I now know to paint my next car a single color -- and avoid the two tone stuff when possible--


Thanks for the compliment btw-- and good luck!
:rant: :rant:
(Heh heh, my roommates were like "This guy's got a body shop inside the apt!")
 
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