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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I'm a newbie to the forum. My girlfriend has a 95 g20 so I've joined this site to help me keep her car rolling. I drive a 68 Dodge so learning how to work on her car has been a bit of an adventure. I was able to replace her starter last week thanks to the posts on the forum and now its time for the next endeavor-the left cv axel. It's been clicking for a good while so I'll be putting a whole new axel and boot I suppose. It will be the first time I've done anything like it so I will thank you in advance for the help I'll surely need. More to come as I get started in the next day or so.
 

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wow. my left cv axle is also clicking so if anybody wants to help us out then that would be appreciated. oh and welcome to the forums! hope you enjoy it here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Correction...the right (passenger) axle. As I understand this is a little easier than the other...I hope.
 

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You have to detach the steering knuckle from the tie rod and possibly the bottom of the strut for both sides. I think the FSM recommends disconnecting the knuckle from the ball joint, but that's more trouble than it's worth. For the left side, it then just slides right out; for the right side, there are three bolts holding it into a ring attached to the right side of the engine block. Make sure you put in new axle seals in the transmission before you slide the new axle in, or you may get some nice leaking transmission fluid.

I'm pretty sure there will be more info if you do a search. Also, if you don't have an FSM in your trunk, go to phatg20.net and download one from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tip. I downloaded the FSM but apparently I need a bit of software I don't own to read it. Is there another place to get a hold of an FSM without buying software (or downloading the free trial version which is surely full of all kinds of other crap)?
 

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The software is available on the same site. I think it's under the Infiniti category, below all the different categories for car models.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll look for that, thank you. How do I tell if her car has LSD or not? I ran into that question at the part store today and don't know the answer..
 

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The easiest way is to life up the front of the car and spin one wheel by hand. If the other wheel moves the opposite direction it is an open differential. If they both move the same direction it has a LSD. The door sticker should list a transmission code, RS5F32A is the open one and RS5F32V is the limited slip... but that doesnt mean that the car still has that transmission in it...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The door code has no such number but the data plate under the hood lists RE4FO3A FL40 as the trans. description... Is the A at the end the character that defines it as open?
 

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For the passenger side, i don't think it makes a difference if it's LSD or not. Only on the driver side. Also, there is a write up on here about removing and replacing the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, after a weather delay I've begun but I still am unable to read the FSM file I downloaded. I tried the software link but I can't seem to open it. If anyone can take a minute to do so, could you post the related diagrams/pics. Meanwhile I'll be fighting that monster 36 nut. Thanks.
-T
 

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sooner said:
Alright, after a weather delay I've begun but I still am unable to read the FSM file I downloaded. I tried the software link but I can't seem to open it. If anyone can take a minute to do so, could you post the related diagrams/pics. Meanwhile I'll be fighting that monster 36 nut. Thanks.
-T
i think all you need is the adobe acrobat reader that is a free download. there should also be an "intall/setup" file for the FSM that enables the files to work within the download.

as for that big arse nut, I sprayed it with some PB Blaster along with heated it up with a blow torch. the driver side came up a bit easier, the passenger one game me more trouble but after a bit of use with my impact wrench it came loose.
 

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for you to take that 36mm nut off go ahead and ask your GF to hold the brake in and while the car is on the ground give it hell... should come off. I take off the upper link and suspension in order to just to slide it off. I think that might not be totally necessary. also the sterring joint and link ends from sway bar, basically leave only the hub being held up by the lower A arm. then just bang it out by hitting the 36mm nut flush with the threads so it will come out fine. also loosen the 3 nuts on the tranny end should come out really easy I overdue it a bit though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright, big nut is off and now I've some questions. I've read the threads on this but I'm still a little unclear.
1. The 'dust cap' is not going to come off in one piece, should I just go ahead and ruin it getting it off and replace it with a new one when I'm done, or can/should I go the route of taking the upper control arm bolt out, will that work?
2. The steering arm is pretty well stuck in there, should I continue to hit it from underneath with a board and hammer as I have been or do I even need to absolutely take it out?
3.I'm not seeing the point in taking off the bolts holding on the brake lines and ABS sensor, maybe I just haven't gotten to the point that becomes necessary, or is it necessary?
4. Any pics would be priceless if someone has some, again it's a 95 g20 passenger axle.
5. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND HELP!!! :teeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update:
I've removed the kingpin cap, in one piece thankfully. Do I tap on the pin from above to get it to come out or do I need to remove the bolts attatching it to the spring as mentioned in the 'how to' thread?
Also, I cannot get my rotor to come off...am I missing something or do I just need to apply a little more mojo?
 

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Rent a tie rod end puller from Autozone to get the tie rod end (I assume that's what you mean by "steering arm") out of the knuckle.

I did not take off the bolts for the brake lines and ABS sensor.

Not sure what a kingpin cap is...

If the rotor is not coming off, it may be rusted on. There are two holes in the hub area that you can put bolts in and tighten them to pop the rotor off. I believe they are M10-size, but I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the reply. I managed to get the axle out without disconnecting the tie rod(yes, that's what I meant...I think I was thinking in my own 'dumbed down' terms) by way of the kingpin removal. I didn't get the gush of fluid which I was supposed to if what I've read is true. I'm hoping the car was just low before I started. Now I've got to go pick up my new axle seal, return the old axle and toss the whole thing back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ALL DONE. Thanks to those of you who helped and to those of you who already posted info on this axle swap. I appreciate it very much.
 
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