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Full-Time Chiller . . . .
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6,285 Posts
not too hard at all, can be done in a couple hours (each axle) with some basic skills and the right tools. You need a Torque wrench though as a lot of the parts that come off have specific torque values.

A basic set of instructions:

jack up car
pull off wheel
pull of brake caliper
pull off brake caliper bracket
pull off rotor
unbolt tie rod
pull of nut on top of knuckle (one under the cap)
bang it a bit so knuckle drops down out of the spring perch
wiggle it off of the drive axle (still attached at lower joint, but pull axle out of spindle
pull axle out of transmission

Put new stuff back in.
If it's the pass side there is a "center bearing" that is held on by 3 bolts to the back of the engine, it's a bit of a pain to get at but it can be done, just a little time consuming finding the bolts and wrenching them out. I would recommend getting a friend to help if you're doing the pass. side.
 

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Questioning Answers
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6,853 Posts
also when reinserting/removeinng MAKE sure u dont damage the spines on the end of the axels....or ull have to oget a new one
 

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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It might sound stupid but I have to ask:

When I take the axle out, will the gearbox oil come out?

Thank you for the answers!
 

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G hoarder
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2,322 Posts
removing the tie rod bolt shouldnt be necesary( and if you dont i dont think you need alignment at least i didnt). i just changed my clutch today and had the axles off without tie rods unbolted. you will need a 36mm socket and a breaker bar to get the axle not off.(p10 might be 32mm or something just search axle nut p10) At most you will lose a quart of tranny fluid 75w-90. Also make sure you have the tool to tighten the boot clamps, it is really hard without it and i cut my fingers in a few places trying to do it with plyers.

all in all its not too hard and even if you have to buy tools at most it should cost around$50. my boots were only$24 and the estimate to have a garage do it was just over $150 and they would have just stuck a reman axle on.

all my exp is on a p11 but the basics are the same
 

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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'll order the parts today (axles, seals, gearbox oil - I thought that if I lose some oil anyway, why not changing it ...) and I'll try to do it next weekend. Maybe I'll post some pictures.
If it doesn't work or I'm too lazy or scared by the prospect of working that much, I know someone who said he'll change them (plus the oil) for me for 150$ (which doesn't sound too bad).

Thank you very much and wish me luck!
 

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G hoarder
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2,322 Posts
my estimate was only 165 including the axles, 90 labor. it really isnt that hard. im no mechanic but heres how i did it

-jack up the car use jack stands cause you will be under the car
-pull wheel
-take off the axle nut and washer with 36mm socket someone will have to hold the brakes or you will have to rig the rotor against the caliper with a screw driver
-take off brake caliper (2 19mm bolts)
-undo the break line clip on the control arm so you can get the caliper propped up out of the way
-take the rotor off
-take off the black dust cap on control arm and pull the 17 mm bolt and washer off
-pull the hub down until the bolt comes out of the control arm, might take a little convincing
-convince the axle to come out of the hub with some improvisation and a rubber mallet
-undo the three (12mm or 14mm) bolts on the support about halfway to the tranny (on the pass side only)
- put a pan under the tranny to collect the half quart of fluid about to come out
-pull the axle out of the tranny
-change boots on old axle via the guide in FAQ or just put on new axles. don't rip the rubber gasket on the bottom of the control arm where the hub bolt goes in
-reassemble, you may or may not need an alignment after this. i didn't but maybe i got lucky
-go spend the $90-100 dollars you saved on something usefull
 

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drunken master
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10,091 Posts
are axels realy damaged? i did steves cv boots outer on left side and inner on r/s.
his inner had lil noise cuase the grease dumpt out but the cv ws un harmed. after everything no more noise and he continues to have oem axels in my apinion oem axels are the shit
 

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244 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The thing is like this:
I bought the car last year in May; it had 127.000 miles
Soon after that I discovered that both boots were ripped (they were fine when I bought it).
For a while I had a whole lot of (different) problems and I didn't even had time to think about that.
Sometime in December I thought I might get it fixed. I bought the 36mm wrench from Sears and then I discovered that the left nut had only the safety pin on it (the metal "hat" was missing) => it was replaced at some point (my opinion).
In late December a stupid truck driver hit my car scratching the driver door, left fender and front bumper. The insurance company said the repairs are too much and the car is considered total loss. I kept the car and the 2900$ they gave me. From that point I decided that I'll keep it as long as it can run and I'll do only really necessary repairs.
This summer I noticed the noise when turning (on the left side ...) and then shaking in the steering wheel.
I bought the cheapest axles I could find from AAP (with 7 years/70.000 miles warranty). The parts will be ~150$ (IF the oil I was thinking of is good) - I pay that much for gas in a month ... and if the car will hold 70k miles more ... it will be more than I could wish for.
 
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