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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Heres my 99 P11 G20t SR20DE(T) setup

Engine: USDM SR20DE(T) 9.5:1 with 201k miles
Nistune ECU tuned by me
Turbo: GTi-R T28
Intake: My own creation 3" piping with Apexi Dual Funnel Intake
Injectors: S15 448cc @ 3bar
Intercooler: FMIC and piping my own creation
Downpipe: 2.5" my own creation
Exhaust: Stock Cat-Back (for now)
Wideband: Innovate LM-2
MAP sensor: SAAB Map sensor for logging purposes
Water Feed: Custom
Oil Feed: Custom
Boost-A-Spark - Kenne Bell
Boost was roughly 7.5 - 8psi
AFR's were solid 12.4 in boost
Stock catback and catalytic convertor in place




On the dyno pull with the missing 11whp and 10wtq the Boost-A-Spark was disabled so you can clearly see even at low boost pressure the boost a spark made a noticeable improvement.

 

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Nice, man! I've been meaning to dyno and never get around to it. From what I've seen though, you should be getting higher numbers with a T28. Also, 12.4 is getting on the dangerous end. Was that under full boost? Something with the tune seems off, because if you richen it up to be a safer 11.8 or even just to 12.0, your numbers are going to drop even further and that doesn't seem right. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its got a stock cat and catback exhaust which is really restrictive ill guesstimate a 30 whp increase once I bolt on the exhaust ill prolly do that next weekend and I'm inly boosting 7-8 psi car drives fine just restricted ftom thd exhaust......I didn't change my tune at all on the dyno at all ill leave it as is until I put the 3" exhaust on then ill tune it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The tune on it actually very nice from idle to cruise to boost transition to wot.....timing maybe slightly conservative but ill tell this p11 drives like a stock car until you get on it. ...you'll see the new numbers soon
 

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I can't wait to see the results! I am curious about the stock exhaust and a GT28 turbo vs 3" exhaust difference.

BTW - What plugs and gap were you using, and did you change the gap between dyno runs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I can't wait to see the results! I am curious about the stock exhaust and a GT28 turbo vs 3" exhaust difference.

BTW - What plugs and gap were you using, and did you change the gap between dyno runs?
I didn't change anything at all between any dyno runs except on one pull I turned off the Kenne Bell BAS and lost 11whp, the plug gap was kept the same at stock .045" (V Power -11 plugs).

Im guestimating a 30whp increase in stock exhaust vs 3" exhaust but will soon find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I had to tighten my gaps when I upped my boost...spark kept blowing out, apparently.
I believe you but smaller gaps are a bandaide for a weak ignition system and smaller plug gaps loose horsepower and mpg's and make for shit idleing especially once you start using much larger injectors. There was no indication with the BAS activated any kind of spark blow out happening only when it was disabled the car lost 11whp 10wtq.
 

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I wasn't aware of that Boost-A-Spark setup you're running and googled it. Looks like a good solution to our stock ignition shortcomings. I didn't even know that was an option, so my plugs are just gapped super tight because under WOT at 16psi I kept getting spark blowout. I may have to look into that...is it pretty easy to get running? Looks like probably just a simple tap into the ignition system somewhere, but is any any tuning required for it or does it just literally boost your spark when needed to allow you to back off your gap to stock width? My car idles fine (well...lumpy because of S4s, but otherwise ok), but you're right, I'm probably losing MPG and maybe HP.
 

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drunken master
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I think the #s are about what I would expect on are dyno pack.
The stock cat and exist is killing the power . However I would raise the afr to safe 11.5 and use the dump to make the power with timeing. Small Ecuador and lean mixtures is usually high efts.

You might be supposed to pull up to 210/215 that way and with a test pipe with more power every place.
For info a stock healthy s13 black top with s14t28 no tune at about same boost from waste gate
With 3inch exhaust made only 185 on are dyno however at 12psi stock evil his Watergate power went to 230who with ease . Closer gaps can be a bandwidth I guess. You want to run a gap to match you ignition system and most controlled spark. IM useing 350a coil packs and these suckers pack some serious energy.

I think the #a about right. The pulsar has a .86 a/r turbine while s14 is .64

Open up your exhaust Richen it up and you should be able to push some timeing
 

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drunken master
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Oh and combustion pressures don't effect spark at all. Because when combusted it no longer needs spark.
;) however cylinder pressure prior to combustion can require more spark energy are do
different plug type are gap because weak ignition won't make the same controlled spark.

When my boost a spark kicks in I will be pulling off on your ass to! :p lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think the #s are about what I would expect on are dyno pack.
The stock cat and exist is killing the power . However I would raise the afr to safe 11.5 and use the dump to make the power with timeing. Small Ecuador and lean mixtures is usually high efts.

You might be supposed to pull up to 210/215 that way and with a test pipe with more power every place.
For info a stock healthy s13 black top with s14t28 no tune at about same boost from waste gate
With 3inch exhaust made only 185 on are dyno however at 12psi stock evil his Watergate power went to 230who with ease . Closer gaps can be a bandwidth I guess. You want to run a gap to match you ignition system and most controlled spark. IM useing 350a coil packs and these suckers pack some serious energy.

I think the #a about right. The pulsar has a .86 a/r turbine while s14 is .64

Open up your exhaust Richen it up and you should be able to push some timeing
I was not trying to make any more power, this number are a direct result of my everyday street tunning with my wideband and map sensor that I do logging with inside of nistune with, I did absolutely no dyno tunning what so ever and I will not do any power increase tunning until I do a couple more dyno tunes to shows everyone here what in stages what each of my upcoming modes are worth in terms of horsepower.

Next dyno will be with 3" exhaust

Then the following dyno will be with TOMEI cams installed

Then i'll return on the street as I have been doing then take it to the dyno and see what the numbers are.

Then eventually I'll buy the phormula knock sensor kit and dig further into tunning.
 

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drunken master
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Cool I figured it was street tune. I really wouldn't run mixture so lean with out running water injection to cool things down if you don't wish to use more fuel.
Not ment to criticize just ment as a safe recommendation.
With the new exhaust you should do really well.
I only making a 2.75 exhaust for my daily. I will be doing the tomie s13pon cam

Keep us up to date and try to use the same dyno for comparisons.
 

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You will like the phormula, It really does help out a bunch. It probably saved me a engine already when I had a vac line pop off of my AEM meth controller and went crazy :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Cool I figured it was street tune. I really wouldn't run mixture so lean with out running water injection to cool things down if you don't wish to use more fuel.
Not ment to criticize just ment as a safe recommendation.
With the new exhaust you should do really well.
I only making a 2.75 exhaust for my daily. I will be doing the tomie s13pon cam

Keep us up to date and try to use the same dyno for comparisons.
One thing I did notice and I'll verify again but while driving on the street my AFR are a lot closer to a flat 11.9 - 12.1 but on the dyno they were quit a bit higher 12.4 - 12.5 ish, you can deff feel that the dyno puts a much harder load on the engine than that of just street driving perhaps this is a reason for the leaner AFR on the dyno versus street....I did not use the dyno wideband I used my Innovate LM-2 wideband like I do all the time when I drive my car so I know the difference I saw, even the dyno operator told me that, that is true. So im actually where I want to be on the street but on the dyno for whatever reasons its about half an air fuel ratio leaner.

Dyno's are cool for the numbers but nothing beats street tuning, a dyno is just not representative of real life on the road, the loads placed on the car are obviously much different to cause the AFR to change by half a whole air fuel ratio, that's proof enough for me, but they are useful but not realistic, I wonder if the loads on the dyno can be changed or whatever until you can make the AFR match what you see on the street.....it was clear as night and day that the dyno caused my car to produce leaner numbers on the dyno.
 
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