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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My engine is shaking like crazy and i believe its the motor mounts. Any idea how to replace these things and if not the motor mounts what could it be? Help please!!

ps. dont know if its me but does the g20 have a exceptional harsh ride? like the shocks are really hard because of the sport handling? or is it that i need the shocks to be replaced? i also have a lexus 330 and i can hardly feel any bumps on the road and there is alot of them pot holes in the my city. any ideas will be greatly apprieciated.
 

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Well it could be a bent crank, but I've never heard of it actually happening. All you need to do motor mounts is an appropriately strong arm, and an appropriately placed jack. If it's on, and it's no tmaking helacious noise, there's very little likelihood the crank is bent. It would probably just seize anyway. You didn't just have a cluthc replaced or anything? A flywheel that was not balanced right might do it. But again you would feel funky tranny stuff.
 

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no i didnt change the clutch and not sure what a flywheel is but dont think its that. any idea or walk throughs on how to change a motor mount?
 

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Mine shakes in reverse - I ordered the urethane from mcmaster-carr to fill my mounts. Do a search - there are some really good write ups on this subject. Don't think you have a bent crank. Is it idling OK? If not, you could have a miss or just need a tune up.
 

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yea mine also shakes in reverse! it idles ok after the car warms up. when i just turn it on from a cold start it also shakes like crzy thanks for all the help. any writes up on how to change a motor mount ?
 

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ericc said:
My engine is shaking like crazy and i believe its the motor mounts. Any idea how to replace these things and if not the motor mounts what could it be? Help please!!
It probably is your engine mounts. If your car is a manual transmission then you have 4 mounts. Two on the cross member, one passenger side mount (you can see this one if you open your hood), and one tranny mount behind the battery.

If you have an auto trans, you have three mounts. Replacing them required you to jack the engine and take the weight off the mounts and then replace them (not all at the same time of course). I just did the 2 crossmember member mounts as shown here.


You have to be patient and make sure you have th engine properly supported and then drop the crossmember. You are working in some tight spaces so air tools help. I ordered mine from www.everythingg20.com, I would reccomend them. Whether you want to tackle the mounts i really how familiar you are with the car and how many tools you have at your disposal. By the way, I would reccomend at least 2 jacks, and at least 2 people!

ericc said:
ps. dont know if its me but does the g20 have a exceptional harsh ride? like the shocks are really hard because of the sport handling? or is it that i need the shocks to be replaced? i also have a lexus 330 and i can hardly feel any bumps on the road and there is alot of them pot holes in the my city. any ideas will be greatly apprieciated.
It's not supposed to be that harsh, just by the way you describe it but I don't know anything about the lex 330. You may need new struts. You can bounce the car at each corner, if it keeps on bouncing up and down more than 1-2 times it can be a good indicator that the struts are tired and may need replacing.
 

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I ws kind of joking about the crank - although I have heard of people bending it slightly (!?!) and the engine not seizing but instead wearing big grooves in the walls of the cylinders while it made a horrible/shaking grinding noise. Fun... The flywheel is the bit off the engine where all the rotational energy spins up from the engine and is transferred to the transmission in order to create usable power to put down on the road via the trans gearing. The flywheel gets "balanced" (basically they put a piece of paper with a target and some bolt guides on it) when you change the clutch because it carries so much power.

When you see a euro car that has a kW (kilowatts)rating instead of an HP rating (Porsches, BeeEms, Mercs, etc.) it's basically a rating of that force in metric and relates to how many Newton-Meters (Nm) the car is putting down. You usually see it as a relationship of that power to the amount of power it puts down to the cars weight. I think. Basically a slightly different way of figuring out HP. (I wonder if anyone's ever figured it out for out little euro car the Primera? Because basically I don't buy the 145hp... definitely does not feel like my old 140hp Celica).
Which is a lot of juju for the engine to be spinning unbalanced.

Did I mention it can bend your crank?

No, seriously though it's gotta be mounts. New write up today. Even has some info I haven't seen.
 

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The Emo Kid.
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definitely sounds like motor mounts. manuals and autos both have 4. i replaced mine after shaking around for a year.

you probably dont need to do all of them. filling them with eurethane wont fix the problem unless you use very soft eurethane. using hard eurethane will just make it happen all the time instead of like mine which at least varied with rpm. take a glance at them and look for cracking in the rubber
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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biomimetic said:
Well it could be a bent crank,
Have you seen how much iron there is holding that in place on a SR motor ? :beard:

ya couldn't bend the crank if ya landed a plane on the car :smile:
 

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getting my trans mount replaced on my 95 g-having done at the shop -tried the motor mounts and had to bring it in- will let you know if that stops the vibe-paying over 300 -seems a bit stiff -but the agravation is worse--joefer1andall
 

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i go for motor mounts.. my car used to shake in a little in D but in R it was bad.. shook since the day i got it over a year ago and i just got them replaced last week.. what a difference no shaking at all! I think theres a write up on here about how to change the mounts yourself though
 

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Just got 2 mounts replaced on mine...

Just wanted to chime in since I'm getting some first hand experience on 99 g20 auto motor mounts.

1. There are 4 motor mounts (and I think someone else already mentioned this)

2. Their locations are passenger side (by timing cover, visible and easily accessible), Front (pretty much centered, also visible and easy to reach), Driver's side (just below where the stock airbox hooks up to the intake hose, you can see part of it while looking down while standing by your left-front wheel), and the P.I.T.A mount in the rear.

3. The mounts are also known as Engine / transaxle Engine and trans mounting Insulators (not confusing at all) :stare:

4. Here are their locations, price and part numbers according to infinitipartsusa.com (highly recommended, you get factory parts, factory sealed for about half what you'll pay at a local dealer)
1. PASSENGER SIDE - 112104m810 engine mount, auto trans (Infiniti of Orlando wanted $280 for this one)
2. DRIVER SIDE - $78.74 - sorry, not sure on the part #... trans mount, auto trans
3. REAR - $56.86 - 113202j210 anti-roll mount, rear, auto trans
4. FRONT - $57.53 - 112702j210 anti-roll mount, front, auto trans

The front and rear mounts do a lot of the heavy lifting, they are under increased stress and will give if weak, worn or broke causing your motor to lean front and back. If your rear mount needs replaced, you'll feel and see the motor travel most when in reverse or park, the front mount is under most stress when in drive and the two side mounts are more to keep the motor secure.

BTW if you don't have a spotter that can look at the motor while you shift from drive to reverse and slightly give a little gas (very little), just lift your hood and look beneath it from the driver's seat and you should be able to see excessive travel.

If you're mounts are in really bad shape, your engine could come in contact with the cross-member directly beneath it and cause extra noise and vibration.

If you have to take your vehicle in to get these replaced, bring the parts! or bring lots of $$$ my local (somewhat reputable shop) charged about an hour labor per mount but pissed me off cause they only replaced 2 of the mounts initially, since they said that was all that needed to be replaced. BUT once the two new mounts were in, the rear of the motor shook like hell. Took another look and the rear mount insulation was dry-rotted and weak, the mount wasn't even broke, but it was very noticeable so now I'm awaiting my order of the rear mount which was definitely needed and the driver's side mount just because I've now talked to 2 dealers and 3 shops all of whom said they recommend changing all 4 together. Thought they just wanted me to shell out more cash but it turns out... they were right :eek:
 

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Whoa whoa whoa!!!! If you have a vibration at cold start and it goes away when its warm thats NOT MOUNTS!? WTF! rubber doesnt expand with heat. A bent crank would throw something through your block or it would barely run and if it did, VERY BAD. The flywheel is what your clutch clamps onto to actually drive you. Now, if you were vibrating only in D, or R, in an auto, yes mounts, but you need to tell us if your driving a stick or auto. If its a stick you may still have broken mounts, but that rough running is exactly that, a running issue. Even in an auto, if it goes away when warm you may need to service the tranny, check plugs, your idle air control valve can be not letting enough air in. Few other things. But simply get in there and check your mounts before you start throwing parts at it
 
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