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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked up a 2000 g20t about 3 weeks ago, and it is in need of some serious work. Brakes and suspension are shot, only has 1 headlight working, both of the fogs are not working, I have some electrical issue going on. Needs new tires, radiator lower core support is rotted out and I'm going to be welding some mild steel box tubing in there soon. Interior needs a good wash, windshield is cracked. I have a 06 Pathfinder 6 disc cd changer on its way. Just about all of the bushings need to be replaced. Front lower and upper control arms need to be rebuilt. And of course it has a CEL on.

The car set me back $585 for the purchase, and so far I have about $600 in new parts that need to be installed.

I used to host with photobucket for pictures, I'm going to give my Google Photos account a try to see if that works. And I'll try to keep this thread updated as much as possible over time to show my progress. I really miss the 99 I had about 3 years ago, and I've regretted selling it back when I did. Hopefully this car is able to fill that void, and not drive me mad trying to fix all of the problems this car has.









The goal is to keep this car within a $3000 budget, here are my costs so far...
$585 price of the car + $25 tax + $95 title transfer : $705
Brakes, wiper linkage, fuel filter, cabin & air filters : $370
Misc Parts from David (header, mats, spark plug wires, cargo net) : $340
Junkyard run (passenger cushion, extra wiper blade arms, fuses/relays, headlight stalk) : $74
Cross member engine mounts, shifter bushing, rear bar bushings : $100
07 Pathfinder Bose Radio : $50
DMSentra (Rob) Pathfinder Brackets : $30
Superbright LEDs, amber dash lights for cluster and hvac control unit : $20

Update (some parts I've been grabbing over the past few weeks) 7/9
Unisajecs Subframe + Cross Member Inserts : $100
JDM Dual Headlights from Ebay (heck of a deal): $120
Various bits (and gaskets) for switching over to a header and post cat setup : $100
Bosch Front/Upper O2 OEM replacment : $40
PNP Park Neutral Position Switch New OEM Replacement: $25
Front LCA bushings (SupperPro reward, Moog Ball Joilts, Nolathane REV028.0080 (Lower Inner Front Front) : $125

Update (extra bits I needed for the PNP Neutral Position Switch install) 7/12
1gal Redline MT90 + various hex bits on Amazon : $80


As of 12/29/17 I'm $1689 into this car. A little past my halfway point.
As of 7/9/17 I'm $2784 into this car. Still within budget, for as bad as this car was, that's still pretty amazing.
As of 7/12/17 I'm $2864, still have enough for the cracked windshield fix, I think, but cutting the car off for awhile after this.
 

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that's a lot of stuff to fix! sounds like you got your hands full. the "0" on the trunk got me lol'ing. pics are working fine for me, i've been using imgbb to host about 1000 of my pics since photobucket took a sh*t and haven't had any problems, if you were looking for another host
 

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Discussion Starter #3
that's a lot of stuff to fix! sounds like you got your hands full. the "0" on the trunk got me lol'ing. pics are working fine for me, i've been using imgbb to host about 1000 of my pics since photobucket took a sh*t and haven't had any problems, if you were looking for another host
Thanks for the recommendation, I need to check that out. I think if I start hosting and running pictures on this site like crazy, which I'm sure Google doesn't want people to start doing, they'll probably deactivate my account. Who knows, maybe they won't care, but I'm pretty sure they don't intend for their photo service to behave that way.

Story gets better. I think the "0" fell off when I was driving the car home, because it definitely isn't there anymore. I'm honestly more surprised, that it made it home on its own power and that the wheels didn't fall off. But that's half the fun about something like this. I really want to go through every nut and bolt on this car, and make it a project I can be proud of.

Car sure is giving me a run for my money. Almost through the last of the electrical issues. Resurrected CarlQB 's thread from 2011. This car is really fighting me like hell, but I'm learning how to really go through electric systems and read wiring diagrams. Spent most of the day trying to diagnose my 1 headlight issue which is actually turning out to be multiple problems, but I think I narrowed it down. As these cars are getting older, I'm sure more people will begin to see similar issues too, so hopefully adding some more content, will keep more of these cars on the road.

Circle of life.
 

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That's a pretty good deal! I would take a 2000 up over a 99' any day. I'm liking the 2000+ 32bit ecu and RR engine, would rather have the 01' up for the internal map but the 00's are good too. The only problem I have found on picking the newer models up cheap are that the ECu's are usually fried from the TB coolant leak :( Looks like it has that famous Illinois rust.... That's one thing I don't miss about living there
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's a pretty good deal! I would take a 2000 up over a 99' any day. I'm liking the 2000+ 32bit ecu and RR engine, would rather have the 01' up for the internal map but the 00's are good too. The only problem I have found on picking the newer models up cheap are that the ECu's are usually fried from the TB coolant leak :( Looks like it has that famous Illinois rust.... That's one thing I don't miss about living there
TB coolant leak, I remember reading about that before, but never had a 00+, so never felt like it really concerned me. Better get on top of that one before it leads to more problems. From what I remember, is just bypassing the coolant lines that run through the TB right?

I'm going to have to read up on some of your threads too regarding the 32bit ecu. I converted the 99 I had down from the 2nd version 16bit OBDII ecu, down to the 1st version 16bit OBDII ecu, and had no CEL issues. Took some time to diagnose some erratic revving issues, but from what I remember, narrowed that down to simply unplugging the rear evap sensor near the gas tank. I think that's what it was. Never actually got around to boosting that car and running Nistune, which was my ultimate goal, but learned a ton on how to do things right the OE way, which I think goes a long way when you begin to modify, and making your work look less like a hack job.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found a bottom cushion from the passenger side of a 99 headed for the crusher. Never realized this, but the bottom pans of the driver side and passenger side lower buckets are slightly different. The frontward mount points are the same, but as for the rearward mount points, the passenger side sits one spot "forward" or towards the direction of the dash. The driver side pan mount points for the reward bolts are more towards the direction of the backseat.

Very easy to pull these cushions off. Only 4 12mm bolts holding them to the frame/rail. In my case, I had to pull all the hog pins, and swap over the heat pad onto the new skin, then reattach.

 

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Yep, just pull the coolant lines off of the TB and couple them together. They all leak sooner or later and when the antifreeze gets into the stepper connector it burns up the stepper chip in the ECU. I have picked up cars that have done this before 200k miles. The one thing I really like about the 00-02' 32bit setups is that the IAC is run by a stepper and I have never had any idle issues like the old plunger 99' down stuff. Also the vacuum and emission solenoids are simplified and a lot less mess that's not in the way. They also learn or train better when you go boosted. I have changed so much on mine with a simple piggyback and the car runs completely stock.

That's odd on the seat bottoms, I was always under the impression that the bottoms were identical... But I haven't ever swapped them to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, just pull the coolant lines off of the TB and couple them together. They all leak sooner or later and when the antifreeze gets into the stepper connector it burns up the stepper chip in the ECU. I have picked up cars that have done this before 200k miles. The one thing I really like about the 00-02' 32bit setups is that the IAC is run by a stepper and I have never had any idle issues like the old plunger 99' down stuff. Also the vacuum and emission solenoids are simplified and a lot less mess that's not in the way. They also learn or train better when you go boosted. I have changed so much on mine with a simple piggyback and the car runs completely stock.

That's odd on the seat bottoms, I was always under the impression that the bottoms were identical... But I haven't ever swapped them to find out.
Thanks for the explanation around the throttle body, going to get to this before I get the registration and insurance sorted out. Interesting about the piggyback, again, I really need to read up more on your threads, you seem to have this one figured out. I've thought about repinning to a 16 bit 1st gen OBDII ecu, but going to be honest with myself too, probably never going to get this car to a point and to actually warrant something like nistune, or a chipped ECU.

Swapping the bottom cushion skins are really easy, just a bit time consuming if you only have standard pliers and standard needle nose like I do. Pulling the hog pins apart is easy, building a technique on clamping them down with non hog pin pliers can be a little annoying. If you have the cold weather package, the seat warmers are very easy pieces of fabric to transfer to just about any seat. I was pretty surprised at how easy that went with some adhesive spray I had laying around from a headliner job I did on my truck a few years back. I'm sure this would be as simple putting into an aftermarket seat too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Few updates, HSBCU bypass going strong, headlights (and all external lighting for that matter) have been working flawlessly.

Before (RH and LH relays on top and bottom, taillamp relay in the middle, HBSCU is the black box on top).


After (RH and LH relays removed, jumped wires to go directly to the switch, and taillamp relay rewired withe the HSBCU removed, read the thread above on which wires you need to pull from the HSBCU plug, and which one to wire into the taillamp relay itself. RH and LH relays are no longer needed when you bypass directly to the switch).



Also, linkage for the windshield wipers has been replaced, took a copy of the old linkage pulled from the car, there was absolutely NO way to salvage this piece.



Still working on some interior bits, cleaning out years of pine needles from the cowl and that also made there way into the fan and heater core. As soon as it gets warm new brakes are going on. Going to bypass the coolant lines running through the throttle body. Then, swapping out the fuel filter, making sure cap/rotor and plugs are within spec, and then this car should be ready for the winter and for the road. Holding off on getting plates until then.

Safety first, not only will I be driving this car back and forth for work, but will be dropping my daughter off at daycare. This car will be getting the grunt of the day to day driving, and hopefully keeping my ILX salt free for the rest of the winter.
 

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We had 2 cars with the bad wiper linkage problem. When we tried to pull it out the studs broke and the plastic started breaking apart. Lucky rockauto carries the whole linkage / transmission for $52. I'm kinda surprised we can get as much aftermarket stuff for these cars being that they were only produced for 4 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I went the rockauto route, I was surprised at how cheap the setup was. Figured it would have been one of those rare expensive bits. I ended up drilling out the 3 studs on each of the wiper bases, mine were so corroded the just kept spinning.

This is going to sound really stupid, but my wiper blade caps that cover the 14mm nut that mounts the actual blade to the base of the linkage don’t fit anymore. Couldn’t quite figure out what was going on there, but would like to get those caps back on to protect those.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Accumulating more parts, but little work getting done with this weather. Been in the negatives for about 2 weeks here in Chicago.



Also ordered a VE pump, pulley, and pickup, as well as some VE valve springs, going to add these items plus the ones pictured into the total spend so far. Might be somewhere around and just under the $2k mark.

There were some pretty clean G20s in the area, but going to assume that even the body was better on those cars, I was still having a hard time finding a 00+ touring/sport with a 5 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pathfinder Bose stereo went in today. Really happy with the quality of these custom brackets, and the clean look of having the Pathfinder radio in my P11, thanks to DMSentra.




 

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Discussion Starter #17
very nice project mate
Thanks man, putting up some recent photos of the interior dash lights I converted over to amber. Replaced the plugs with some extras I had stored away from my last P11. Back brakes were replaced about a week ago, still have to finish the fronts, get the new front fenders on, install/adjust the Tein coilovers, and it should be roadworthy again! Only thing that's been setting me back is all of this snow and cold weather we've been getting in Chicago.








I still haven't gotten around to bypassing the coolant hoses that run through the throttle body. I need to get to that real soon. Also planning on sending off my injectors for flow testing and sonic cleaning. All when the weather decides to start cooperating of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nice, you got the updated climate control version. The 99-mid 00 had crappier buttons and the screen wasn't as bright, and the temperature up and down buttons go "in" in these instead of the earlier ones where they go "out" if that makes sense.
I never knew that, always thought the crappier version was exclusive to the 99's. This car does have the cold weather package, not sure if that made a difference. Or maybe it was just luck of the draw.
 

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Pathfinder Bose stereo went in today. Really happy with the quality of these custom brackets, and the clean look of having the Pathfinder radio in my P11, thanks to DMSentra.
Nice to see the pathfinder brackets are still getting used and DMSentra still making them! That project is something Slimlou and myself started damn near 10 years ago!

Nice, you got the updated climate control version. The 99-mid 00 had crappier buttons and the screen wasn't as bright, and the temperature up and down buttons go "in" in these instead of the earlier ones where they go "out" if that makes sense.
I always preferred the 99 controls with the extra texture on the buttons.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice to see the pathfinder brackets are still getting used and DMSentra still making them! That project is something Slimlou and myself started damn near 10 years ago!
10 years later, the fitment is still perfect.
 
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