Very nice, thanks for the write-up!
Full hydro conversion in P10 using B15 tranny
16
Total cost of the entire conversion was right around $850-900, using as many new parts as I could get my hands on.
Parts list -
The whole swap is fairly simple, just gotta take your time. Picking up from everything being already removed from the car pertaining to the old tranny and its workings.
Upon receiving my junkyard trans I got some Quicksteel and filled in the large open space that a lot of guys were saying was a problem area. A little side note, the original cable speed sensor fit perfectly in the new tranny.
Hole in the firewall where the clutch cable previously ran and where the new clutch master shall sit.
Three bolts hold the clutch pedal assembly in, two through the firewall to a bracket, the other goes up towards gauge cluster and such, this is one of the two for the firewall
Sorry kind of blurry, but this is the third bolt holding the pedal in.
Some guys when doing the 6spd swap said to leave this little bracket on the inside of the firewall intact. I couldn't do it, I had to remove it. I simply could not get enough pedal travel with it still connected.
Junkyard special pedal assembly, there is also 3 mounting holes for this one. the two in the firewall line up great, the third one on the top not so much. I heard you "should make a bracket", "no you don't need it" me personally, I didn't make one and its holding very well. Stage 5 Clutch Masters kit and i have zero issues with the pedal moving.
New clutch master cylinder from the dealer
tried and tried and tried to fanangle it into place, just wasn't going to happen.
Finally with an extra pair of hands and after loosening the brake booster (not completely removing it) got it to slide in
Little bracket on the top of the strut tower looks almost like it was put there on purpose.
Perhaps it was... The 99 reservoir with included bracket fits perfectly and with the factory hose from the P11, there are no pinching or binding issues.
Getting the two bolts that run through the firewall to snug up was an SOB. But, with some patience and jerry-rigging, got them all tightened up, normal pedal location, same as the original.
No clearance issues with the strut tower, EXTREMELY tight fit, but it works.
Brake line I used to make the line for the slave
Slave installed
The only real issue i had was this little thing. Its the washer that holds the shift stabilizer onto the mount. When I would engage 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th I would get real bad binding, cause by the actual gear selector rubbing on this washer, you can see a bit of the metal exposed. I guess Nissan moved the location just slightly for the B15 and thusly caused the issue. A simple grind on both sides to shrink its width and it fits like butter.
The rest is just like install a regular tranny. Pretty simple and after beating the hell out of mine I suggest everybody do it. I've had so many issues through the years with cables, I figured to just make the full upgrade after I melted my stock tranny :lol:
Also I used Redline gear oil in mine, and I really liked that, there was a debate on that as well. Personally I prefer the Redline.
Total time I think was like 12-13 hours split to like 3-4 days. Real easy going and like I said, the results are worth it.
Aaron
Parts list -
'01 B15 Sentra SE 5spd tranny - Junkyard - $350
'99 G20 Clutch master cylinder - Dealer - $140
'99 G20 Clutch master reservoir - Dealer - $16
'99 G20 Slave cylinder - Advance Auto - $30
"99 G20 Master to reservoir hose - Dealer - $10
'99 G20 Clutch pedal - Junkyard (dealer no longer carried) - $50
'01 Sentra Axles - Napa - $260 (REMAN)
'91 G20 TOB clips (just because) - Dealer - $9
Brake line - Advance Auto - $8
Various nuts and bolts - Ace Hardware - $5
Redline gear oil - Specialty shop - $50
Quicksteel - Napa - $7
'99 G20 Clutch master cylinder - Dealer - $140
'99 G20 Clutch master reservoir - Dealer - $16
'99 G20 Slave cylinder - Advance Auto - $30
"99 G20 Master to reservoir hose - Dealer - $10
'99 G20 Clutch pedal - Junkyard (dealer no longer carried) - $50
'01 Sentra Axles - Napa - $260 (REMAN)
'91 G20 TOB clips (just because) - Dealer - $9
Brake line - Advance Auto - $8
Various nuts and bolts - Ace Hardware - $5
Redline gear oil - Specialty shop - $50
Quicksteel - Napa - $7
The whole swap is fairly simple, just gotta take your time. Picking up from everything being already removed from the car pertaining to the old tranny and its workings.
Upon receiving my junkyard trans I got some Quicksteel and filled in the large open space that a lot of guys were saying was a problem area. A little side note, the original cable speed sensor fit perfectly in the new tranny.
Hole in the firewall where the clutch cable previously ran and where the new clutch master shall sit.
Three bolts hold the clutch pedal assembly in, two through the firewall to a bracket, the other goes up towards gauge cluster and such, this is one of the two for the firewall
Sorry kind of blurry, but this is the third bolt holding the pedal in.
Some guys when doing the 6spd swap said to leave this little bracket on the inside of the firewall intact. I couldn't do it, I had to remove it. I simply could not get enough pedal travel with it still connected.
Junkyard special pedal assembly, there is also 3 mounting holes for this one. the two in the firewall line up great, the third one on the top not so much. I heard you "should make a bracket", "no you don't need it" me personally, I didn't make one and its holding very well. Stage 5 Clutch Masters kit and i have zero issues with the pedal moving.
New clutch master cylinder from the dealer
tried and tried and tried to fanangle it into place, just wasn't going to happen.
Finally with an extra pair of hands and after loosening the brake booster (not completely removing it) got it to slide in
Little bracket on the top of the strut tower looks almost like it was put there on purpose.
Perhaps it was... The 99 reservoir with included bracket fits perfectly and with the factory hose from the P11, there are no pinching or binding issues.
Getting the two bolts that run through the firewall to snug up was an SOB. But, with some patience and jerry-rigging, got them all tightened up, normal pedal location, same as the original.
No clearance issues with the strut tower, EXTREMELY tight fit, but it works.
Brake line I used to make the line for the slave
Slave installed
The only real issue i had was this little thing. Its the washer that holds the shift stabilizer onto the mount. When I would engage 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th I would get real bad binding, cause by the actual gear selector rubbing on this washer, you can see a bit of the metal exposed. I guess Nissan moved the location just slightly for the B15 and thusly caused the issue. A simple grind on both sides to shrink its width and it fits like butter.
The rest is just like install a regular tranny. Pretty simple and after beating the hell out of mine I suggest everybody do it. I've had so many issues through the years with cables, I figured to just make the full upgrade after I melted my stock tranny :lol:
Also I used Redline gear oil in mine, and I really liked that, there was a debate on that as well. Personally I prefer the Redline.
Total time I think was like 12-13 hours split to like 3-4 days. Real easy going and like I said, the results are worth it.
Aaron
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