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Discussion Starter #1
Curious what kind of weight is customary for a race prepped G20? Full interior gut, delete a/c and p/s, remove sound deadening, windows, inner skins, and anything else that can unbolt or be cut off. Add for cage. Probably will completely gut wiring and build minimal harness from scratch.

I'm starting at 2752 bone stock, 1/4 tank of fuel, no driver. I'm hoping to get 400 lbs out. Pipe dream or possible?
 

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We run at 2740 WITH 180 pound driver, 1/4 tank of gas for our race class (fully caged of course) All glass still in place (minus the front driver and passenger door glass and window mechanisms)


Keep in mind adding a full racecourse cage will add weight back (anywhere from 100-150lbs back into the car depending on how beefy you build the cage) Our cage is 1.75" with .120 DOM


If you are doing w2w racing, things like the fire extinguisher (or fire system) add weight back as well. Little things like gauges, emergency cut-off switch, video camera mount, cool suit system, traqmate data logging all do add weight back as well of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Chris, I just went through your "point of no return" thread. Your car looks great, made me feel good about getting started on mine.

I have a 92, no sunroof. It was tough to find one without sunroof and a 5-speed, let alone local and cheap. I won't have a minimum weight and plan to go further with gutting than Chris did. Like my rear doors will be fully gutted and welded in place and I won't have any glass left in the car.

I understand that safety equipment goes into the car, and I'll have a coolshirt box, race dash, transponder, and data acquisition.

Thanks for the feedback.
 

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We like being able to store things in back of the g20 so we left our rear doors alone and able to be opened (also makes it easy for the person not driving to open the back door and turn on the camera) We left the factory glass in place in the back windows as well (briefly discussed lexan but decided against it)

Also, we had relocated the battery to the spot that would typically be behind the front passenger seat (also makes for easier access if needed still being able to open that door if the battery has to get changed or charged)
 

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I don't understand everyone's need or want to weld the read doors in place. Welding will add more weight and it will make getting to the fuel pump and rear shocks a lot harder.

If you wanted to weld then closed for weight then get it make a skin to go in place. At that point u would still probably keep most of the door intact and just lighten it as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think that removing the door's inner shell, latches, hinges, and hardware will more than offset the weight added by the weld. We can save a few pounds per door there, so it seems like "low hanging fruit" to me. We'll figure the rest out. Battery can go in the front, passenger side maybe. Cameras can be activated by remote, or placed in other positions where they are easily serviced. We'll figure the rest out.

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I'd just cut out what you don't need yet leave the door functional enough to open and close. You can loose enough weight just gutting it down and adding fixed plexiglass IMHO and the few ounces of a door latch is negligible but each to their own I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's the latch and the hinges, but I hear ya. Thanks for the feedback. I'll see what happens when I get the sawzall out. :)
 

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I'd just cut out what you don't need yet leave the door functional enough to open and close. You can loose enough weight just gutting it down and adding fixed plexiglass IMHO and the few ounces of a door latch is negligible but each to their own I guess.
i agree here. The outter skin is pretty light. its the main frame core that is heavy. you could probably cut everything out except the hinge mounting spot and the latch piece. you could remove the handle and latch and put a pin in it even but the stock plastic handle is pretty light.

i have been bulding my car for mainly track use and some time attack time trial stuff. It is hard to build a racecar for many clubs because they all have different rules. I went through the firewall to the front shock mounts which is illegal in almost every class except the unlimited stuff. I also have air jacks which adds a bit of weight but on a car that is 2" off the ground, prove to be very beneficial...
 

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Oh.... so you know, we run on regular 87 octane too (never advanced the timing and saw no need to invest more money in other engine mods) Cheap SSAC 2.5 exhaust header is about it. Keeping the engine almost all stock keeps costs down and reliability up high (at least it has for us)
 

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Reliability is key in a racecar. Well. Any car. Once fully reliable and chassis is sorted then you can start bumpin HP up if allowed.

All that points n stuff is another reason why I wanted to build my car my way. I just track and hangout with a local group if Porsche guys, mostly all GT3 guys and few other oddballs but they are fun.

Oh. And racing costs money. More money
 

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Well in lemons and chump, everything performance wise is stock stock stock, so just keep the oil full and you should be fine.

I wouldn't weld the doors closed either. Seems like more work just to cause more hassle.




I'm at 2270 here. 93.5 manual no sunroof. Interior removed, but I haven't cut any metal. I have added LSD gearbox.

Things in this pic you can't have; Primera bumpers I know are about 35lbs lighter, carbon hood and trunk, not sure how much my coilovers weigh compared to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My thread is in the sponsors section

2 old teaser pics
Thank you, I enjoyed looking through your photobucket album. It was so awesome, my computer couldn't handle it and blue screened. Your car looks great.

I'm at 2270 here. 93.5 manual no sunroof. Interior removed, but I haven't cut any metal.
Wow, around 500lbs less than stock, without cutting?! AWESOME.

While I have a little attention, do you guys watch oil temp? At a Chump race a few weeks ago, the team next to us was running a SR20DE powered car (S13 240SX) that was showing 280-290° oil temp. That was a 14 hour race. I wouldn't want my car to run that hot, that long.
 

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That's pretty hot. But that also depends.
What kind of oil? And also is that temp being measured in the oil pan or pre oil cooler or post? If that's after the oil cooler then yeah that's too hot. If before cooler then it may be "ok"

My car has been a long project. 7 1/2 years and counting
 

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We run an Oil temp, oil pressure and water temp gauge (mechanical -- not electric) in all our race cars and do monitor them. For our G20, we found the best results with 1 qt 15w40 and the rest 5w30 (especially on longer races or really hot days) but early in the season (like April) is straight 5w30.
 

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Mine is 2375 with 2 race seats + harnesses, AC compressor + lines + condensor, full hood skin, full trunk skin, full cage (dual nascar bars), lexan rear window, lexan rear door windows, front door windows are glass which are bolted in for transport, some rear deck to be removed, no ballast.

I used 1.500 x .120 DOM as I was shooting for 2500 or less. Sorry for the potato style photos, I still need to take some better ones.

I figure I'll shed another 50-75 lbs once I take the AC system out at a minimum.













 

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Jon, getting your full comp license this year? (...noticed the Time Trial tape on the car still despite your full cage now)


Also, did you remove the wiper arms and everything else associated with windshield wipers and water to spritz on the windshield?
 
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