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"the government"
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So as some of you may now, I got a pretty good deal on a greddy emanage basic. I just got it installed today so I decided to write my review.

The unit itself:

Just that, basic. Has some manual screw adjustments on the side for the fuel and a usb port to connect your laptop.

I didn't get an instruction manual, or a cd since I got mine used, but you can get both off the website.

I choose to get mine installed from a greddy dealer in my area (this will come back later on)

My Car:
CAI
2.25" catback with remus exhaust
s3 cams
New spark plug wires and oil
Automatic

The results:

I gained 6.2 hp and 3.68 ft/lbs of torque. I don't have my ssac 2.5" header installed yet, but everyone I have talked to says it shouldn't mess up my air/fuel when it gets on. Low down not a lot changed, but up top is where most of the power comes in. No surprise there really.

Either something is wrong with my car, or everyone else is lying about their hp numbers because I only ran 120.6 hp and 107.79 after everything was all said and done. Now I will admit that I have a cel that is for a random misfire that I am trying to diagnose, so who knows if this hampered my numbers. The place that installed my emanage has a pretty good deal on dyno time so after my ssac is on and my cel is gone I'll re-try it.

IN THE END:

If you are going to install it yourself, I say go for it. I got mine used for $150 shipped. So $24.19 per horse and $40.76 per ft/lb, which is pretty good for n/a.
However if you don't know your way around the ecu and are going to have someone install it, it probably wont sound so good. The guys either took their time since I couldn't be there (buying my wife a new Versa) or they were lost without the instruction manual. I ended up paying a little over $400 out the door for install and tuning. I forgot to grab the map off them, so I'll get it next week and include on this post so you n/a guys can save some coin.

There you guys have it, if you have any questions feel free to ask here.:smile:

Bryan
 

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"the government"
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2,615 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My Car:
CAI
2.25" catback with remus exhaust
s3 cams
New spark plug wires and oil
Automatic

I only ran 120.6 hp and 107.79 after everything was all said and done. Now I will admit that I have a cel that is for a random misfire that I am trying to diagnose, so who knows if this hampered my numbers. The place that installed my emanage has a pretty good deal on dyno time so after my ssac is on and my cel is gone I'll re-try it.
Ok, seriously. I started searching around sr20 and found crap like this:
http://www.sr20forum.com/general-sr20/215397-dynoed-my-car-first-time-today.html

WTF is wrong with my car? I know the ssac isn't going to net me 30 hp!
 

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well the stock header is definetly a bottle neck with the s3 cams. and a misfire probably means you need to do something on the ignition side of the engine. that would definetly hamper your power.
they did a baseline on your car, thats where they got the 6.2 HP right?
what CAI are you running.
I'd say your numbers aren't far off.
2.25 exhaust isn't much bigger than stock, so its not gonna give you top end power, more like low to mid power, which is good for normal driving. The cams will give you top end power and take away from your low end power. I'd say if you solve the misfire you'll have around 125-130 which is right in the ballpark. and add the Header and you should be in the mid 130-140.
whats your timing set at? with s3 cams it should be stock.
is you car auto or manual? if you are auto I'd say you were right on the money.
 

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oh wait, I forgot you have my CF pillars on your car, you should easily be making 175hp, something is definetly wrong :p
 

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so i dont know exactly what the E-manage does
i know it helps you tune

but i thought if you were going turbo would be the reason to get it

can someone explain to me what its purpose? thanks
 

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so i dont know exactly what the E-manage does
i know it helps you tune

but i thought if you were going turbo would be the reason to get it

can someone explain to me what its purpose? thanks
basically it manipulates the signal between the car and the ECU to produce results that will help gain HP.
example: it make the ECU think the car is running rich so it will reduce fuel to the injectors so the car leans out. leaning the car alittle will create a few HP, but leaning it to much will create a BOMB the destroys your engine.
 

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"the government"
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
a misfire probably means you need to do something on the ignition side of the engine.
Yeah, I'm working my way through to make sure, that's why the new wires. I have spark plugs to throw in, and some other people say I need a idle control which I'm looking into. The dyno didn't show anything to crazy, and it was monitoring air/fuel so I ruled that out.

they did a baseline on your car, thats where they got the 6.2 HP right?
Yeah, baseline before the emanage. That's the only thing that changed during the two times.

what CAI are you running.
idk, a member on here was giving it away because he couldn't get it to work (didn't have a maf adapter:shhh:). It doesn't have any distinguishable markings on it.

I'd say your numbers aren't far off.
2.25 exhaust isn't much bigger than stock, so its not gonna give you top end power, more like low to mid power, which is good for normal driving. The cams will give you top end power and take away from your low end power. I'd say if you solve the misfire you'll have around 125-130 which is right in the ballpark. and add the Header and you should be in the mid 130-140.
whats your timing set at? with s3 cams it should be stock.
is you car auto or manual? if you are auto I'd say you were right on the money.
Timing is at stock, 15*. That is one of the things about emange though, if you want to move it you can. It is an auto, which I heard makes it harder to dyno because you cant leave it in the powerband you want. The car definitely pulls hard when I get to about 3.5k rpm's, so that sounds right. It's just pretty depressing. I'm going manual and det now, this solves it.
 

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Sucks that your numbers are low, get the cel figured out, slap on the header and go back. Your s3's are hurting for flow without the headers. But hey, it's cool that you gained 6whp with the emanage, I'm thinkin I should invest in one :cheeky:
 

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you're auto thats the answer right there. do a search for [email protected]'s car, he had basically the same setup as you in an auto and got similar results. thats why he switched to manual.

all things considered 6.2HP with just some mild engine tuning with an emange is great. it just sucks paying $400 for someone to tune it. that kinda ruins the dollar to HP ratio. I wouldn't trust myself tuning either. I got too much time and money in the car to blow up the motor trying to self tune.
 

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"the government"
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you're auto thats the answer right there. do a search for [email protected]'s car, he had basically the same setup as you in an auto and got similar results. thats why he switched to manual.

all things considered 6.2HP with just some mild engine tuning with an emange is great. it just sucks paying $400 for someone to tune it. that kinda ruins the dollar to HP ratio. I wouldn't trust myself tuning either. I got too much time and money in the car to blow up the motor trying to self tune.
The tuning itself was cheap, $100 for 3 pulls with wideband, it was the $300 install that was killer. I probably should have read up on it and done it myself though. Oh well.
 

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Wow, even with S3 cams that's your dyno #'s? wow. I thought with Cams, your #'s would be higher. Hmm, but then again, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but IIRC P10's & '99's were rated @ 140hp, and '00-02 were rated a littler higher @ 145HP. So there my lie some of the difference. But I agree, after I dyno'd my car, I thought the same as you/questioning other people's #'s as well. My #'s are below. As you can see, I had gains after changing out my plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Since then, I've installed my 2" SSAC header & Remus. So maybe another trip to the dyno is in order to see what true gains they really offer. I know for a fact though, if I were to go with lighter rims, I'll see a little higher #'s as well. Not much but some. The Motegi MR7's I have are boat anchors (24.5lbs each!) By reducing the rotational mass, it will make some improvements.


Run#1: 119.2HP 116.7Ft·lb
Run#2: 121.9HP 119.6Ft·lb ** New plugs/wires installed
Run#3: 120.7HP 119.7Ft·lb

Here's a thread where members have been posting dyno results on.
 

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I added a picture of the dyno print out since I still couldn't get my scanner to work.
how did you dyno it with the auto? i have an auto and im interested in what the numbers might be just for the heck of it.. you do 1st then the pull in 2nd?
 

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The tuning itself was cheap, $100 for 3 pulls with wideband, it was the $300 install that was killer. I probably should have read up on it and done it myself though. Oh well.
oh, then yeah you got ripped off :-\
if it took you 3-4 hours to install it, thats fine, but for a qualified professional to take that long...... I used to wire alarms (professionally) in cars, and average would take 2 hours with an alarm and remote start. I guarentee there aren't a 1/4 as many wires in a basic emange install. are you sure they didn't charge $100 for the dyno and the rest of the labor is tuning? that sounds more reasonable. for every palce I've seen around here its a $100 to just get on the dyno and do a few pulls, nevermind tuning
 

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"the government"
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
oh, then yeah you got ripped off :-
if it took you 3-4 hours to install it, thats fine, but for a qualified professional to take that long...... I used to wire alarms (professionally) in cars, and average would take 2 hours with an alarm and remote start. I guarentee there aren't a 1/4 as many wires in a basic emange install. are you sure they didn't charge $100 for the dyno and the rest of the labor is tuning? that sounds more reasonable. for every palce I've seen around here its a $100 to just get on the dyno and do a few pulls, nevermind tuning
Now that I think about it, the $100 was just for the dyno and wideband. Either way, they quoted me $250 to install, but said it took longer because I didn't have an install manual. They are a greddy dealer, and it's online, but whatever. I wasn't too happy, and probably will only go back because of the dyno.
 

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don't feel bad, I've had my share of bad beats like that. like when I had my brake kit installed and they fucked it up and had to remove it the next day because it was unsafe to drive. then I had it installed again (right)somewhere else. if you don't do things yourself your taking a chance at getting screwed. but if you do do it youself you're taking a chance at screwing it up :)
 

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Full-Time Chiller . . . .
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if you don't do things yourself your taking a chance at getting screwed. but if you do do it youself you're taking a chance at screwing it up :)
but if you do do it yourself and you mess it up at least you can't get mad at anyone and it doesn't cost you any money to try again. If they eff it up you just keep paying and paying and paying . . . . .
 

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I'd rather be pissed at someone else then myself. I see me everyday :(
 

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"the government"
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
how did you dyno it with the auto? i have an auto and im interested in what the numbers might be just for the heck of it.. you do 1st then the pull in 2nd?
Unfortunately I couldn't be there, so I don't know how they dyno'd it.
 
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