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Gtir help

1871 Views 18 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Seannnn
So I ran into a few problems swapping in the gtir motor. 1. What did you guys do for the what I guess is called the chassis harness ( the one from the fuse boxes into the engine harness). I would still like to retain my power Windows and power doors if possible. Did anyone make a custom harness or just use one from the pulsar. Second is there a bracket to make the side trans.mount mount up correctly with the chassis since it sits a bit forward of the chassis mount as of right now.
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Also is there a special bracket for the trans mount since the trans is the older bellhousing with the mount on the side?
P10?
Oh sorry. Its going into a p11 but the trans is the older style with the mount on the side and such
My main concern is the harness though
I'll have to ask my brother in law - when winter was approaching he did a bunch of stuff to the car when I wasn't there, including the steps you need to know about here. My trans is from an '02 so that won't help you, but for the harness issue I'm not sure what the question is...I don't think we did anything to it...and clearly I'm not afraid of looking stupid because maybe we did and I just don't know about it. :p
I use the term "we" loosely.
The shop is saying since the body harness and the engine harness come into one that they cannot use the body harness. I know thats not true I just need to know how I can use the body harness. Im not good with wiring. I am using a jwt engine harness
Ok new problem. Got the car running but the spark plugs get flooded with fuel. I am using a jwt tuned b13 ecu with a step down harness. Forgot to switch over the maf sensor that the ecu thought it was running. (No avail but plugs could have still been wet from previous starts and such). If tomorrow this doesn't solve the problems should I try switching out the ecu for the stock gtir ecu? What else could be causing this? I doubt all 4 injectors have gone bad but anything is possible.
Ok new problem. Got the car running but the spark plugs get flooded with fuel. I am using a jwt tuned b13 ecu with a step down harness. Forgot to switch over the maf sensor that the ecu thought it was running. (No avail but plugs could have still been wet from previous starts and such). If tomorrow this doesn't solve the problems should I try switching out the ecu for the stock gtir ecu? What else could be causing this? I doubt all 4 injectors have gone bad but anything is possible.
I am going to assume you are using the 444cc injectors? Did you wire in the resistors required for low impedance injectors?
No I dont believe they did. Are you referring to the ohm stoppers?
Car runs now but when I floor it it hesitates and splitters and just jerks around. Its horrible. Sometime it even happens just from accelerating too fast. Would that still be related to the resistors or "ohm stoppers"?
Ohm resistors were installed in the injector harness. Now when the car is started the idle jumps around a bit (kinda like its cammed) and then if you give it a little gas (around 2k) it idles smooth at about 1200 rpms. Then itll drop down to 800 rpms or so (which is the normal idle i believe) and then itll just die and wont start. Any idea what could cause this? I thought maybe the spark plugs were still fouled so I took them out and cleaned them a bit , I let the spark plug cylinders dry out all day and I added a few grounds for the motor because I only saw like two or three. Anything else I should do?
You can fry an ECU if you ran the car long enough on low impedance injectors without resistors. Also sounds like your approach is more on track with "I'll try this and hope it works" methodology. Which isn't going to get you very far.

Use the right injectors, maf, ALL sensors, and especially a tps that runs within the parameters designed for the ecu. If you're running a GTiR ecu on USDM sensors/maf, you're going to have problems. Plus I would be willing to bet your harness isn't wired correctly for the ECU you are running. Check, double check, then triple check to make sure the corresponding signal wires coming from each sensors are going to their respective and correct pins on the ECU.

If the car is wired correctly, the engine has good compression across all cylinders, you don't have boost leaks, you have spark, fuel pressure is in spec when the ignition is on, and you've done everything i've mentioned above, the car WILL run correctly.

Step 1 : pull out your ECU, take off the 4 screws that secure the cover plate, and make sure you didn't fry anything.
Step 2 : follow everything else I've outlined for you above.
Step 3 : quick trying to run the motor on a setup you're not sure about.

At least this should point you in the right direction.
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Ohm resistors were installed in the injector harness. Now when the car is started the idle jumps around a bit (kinda like its cammed) and then if you give it a little gas (around 2k) it idles smooth at about 1200 rpms. Then itll drop down to 800 rpms or so (which is the normal idle i believe) and then itll just die and wont start. Any idea what could cause this? I thought maybe the spark plugs were still fouled so I took them out and cleaned them a bit , I let the spark plug cylinders dry out all day and I added a few grounds for the motor because I only saw like two or three. Anything else I should do?
You need to set base timing and idle. It can be a pain in the ass because the idle has to be set for the timing, and the timing has to be set for the idle. So if it is really far off, it will take some time, its a balancing act though.
I am going back over this shops work fixing thre problems they gave it back to me with. Ok I will go through the harness and look for a bad connection and such. Ecu was just swapped out. Set the base timing and idle. Also I just noticed that the distributor is different than the one I got with the gtir motor I think its my stock DE distributor. Wouldnt that cause a problem? Not sure why they swapped it.
I am going back over this shops work fixing thre problems they gave it back to me with. Ok I will go through the harness and look for a bad connection and such. Ecu was just swapped out. Set the base timing and idle. Also I just noticed that the distributor is different than the one I got with the gtir motor I think its my stock DE distributor. Wouldnt that cause a problem? Not sure why they swapped it.
The clip for the jdm dizzy and 99 USDM dizzy are different. Rather than repinning the clip to match the jdm dizzy, they probably wired the ECU harness clip to match the jdm ecu. Honestly, you should run a tunable or chipped OBDII ecu on your car to match your setupand not the jdm ecu. Its much easier to source USDM sensors and parts than it is jdm. Plus there are ways to keep your car compliant with most state emissions if you keep the USDM OBDII setup.
and if they didnt rewire it would that cause problems? trying to source an obd2 g20 ecu so i can have it chipped. just trying to get this running so i can get to work a bit. already been 4 monthhs of bumming rides lol. and im using the jwt ecu from the b13 sentra. used the connectors from the harness of the previous owner of the motor.
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