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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hawaiiaNX's 1996 Infiniti G20t

Engine: Lowport DE w/ Girdle Removed, P11 Upper/Lower Oil Pan Conversion, WAI w/ Stillen POP Charger and Filter, eBay SSAC Knockoff Header, EGR Delete, 300ZX Fuel Filter, GSpec Underdrive Crank Pulley, Fidanza Flywheel (143621), ACT NX9-HDSS Clutch Kit, P11 Crossmember Conversion with Prothane Crossmember Mount Inserts, C's Performance Aluminum/Delrin Crossmember Bushings, C's Performance Delrin Subframe Inserts,

Engine Management: Stock ECU

Transmission: P11 RS5F70V, P11 Shift Rods, ES Shifter Bushings (Front and Rear), Modified/Shortened OEM Shifter, 300ZX Shift Knob

Cooling: 300ZX Radiator Cap, Distilled Water w/ Water Wetter

Steering: Moog Inner Tie Rods w/ bellows, Moog Outer Tie Rods, ES rack bushings

Suspension: Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers w/ Swift Springs (8k front, 7k rear), Addco Rear Sway Bar, ES LCA Bushings, ES Front Sway Bar Bushings, ES Front Endlink Bushings, Cusco FSTB, Jagy Bearing UCA's, Octotat RSTB,

Brakes: 11" P11 Cross drilled and slotted front rotors, P11 front torque members and calipers, 11" Spec V Brembo rear rotors, A32 Maxima rear torque members, Techna-Fit Stainless Braided Brake Lines, Stop Tech Sport Pads

Wheels/Tires: Sprint Hart CP-F Wheels (15x6.5 +45 and 15x7 +42), Continental Extreme Contact Sport Tires (205/50R15), ARP 80mm Extended Wheel Studs (Rear), 2J Racing 55mm Extended Wheel Studs (Front), Gorilla Steel Open-Ended Lug Nuts

Exterior: Shaved rear emblems, 35% Ceramic Tint (sides and rear), OEM Mudflaps, LoCo Performance Skid Plate,

Interior: Dual Electronics XDM16BT Head Unit, Polk 6.5" Rear Speakers, Pioneer 4"x6" Front Speakers, OEM Cubby Drawer w/ Cupholders

Maintenance: Rear coolant bypass hoses, front main seal, clutch cable, VC gasket, distributor o-ring, P11 washer fluid reservoir and pump w/ new sprayer nozzles, upper coolant neck, driver's rear wheel hub/bearing, ABS actuator, OEM washer fluid sprayer nozzles, AC compressor pulley bearing, belts, Front Sway Bar Endlinks, OEM water pump, Passenger motor mount, Rear Main Seal, TOB w/ Retainer Clips, Axle Seals, Brake Booster Hose

















Issues:

- Numerous dings/dents/scrapes all over

- Oil leak (timing cover)

- Axle boots all torn

- Passenger A-Pillar cover messed up

Planned Upgrades:

- EUDM tail light conversion

This will be my daily driver so not looking to get too crazy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Installed Fortune Auto 500 coilovers with Swift spring upgrade (8k front, 7k rear) along with my old Jagy bearing UCA's and a used Addco RSB with all new hardware. Got the coils adjusted to a 2-finger fender gap and now just need to take it in for alignment first thing tomorrow morning so I can start driving it again!

Rear


Front


Overall


Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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Hey Branden, congrats on the new ride. Looks like you're one of the only guys left on the island actively using the sr20 forums. Or are there more of us?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Branden, congrats on the new ride. Looks like you're one of the only guys left on the island actively using the sr20 forums. Or are there more of us?
Not many left on the old forums. Most migrated over to the Forum FB pages. Much more active there now. I just figured i would check in and update here as well, though it looks like my images aren't working again with the new picture hosting site that I was using.

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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Discussion Starter #7
About a month ago I pulled the P10 upper and lower oil pans off and removed the girdle so I could convert to P11 upper and lower oil pans. P11 lower pans are way cheaper than P10 lower oil pans that's why, to the tune of $18 vs. $150. Plus I am staying NA so don't NEED the girdle and could use the added WHP. Oh, and the lower oil pan had a major leak anyway so figured may as well replace and reseal both. Still kicking myself for not doing the timing cover while I was in there. Oh well.

Also, within the last 2 weeks, I pulled the old 32V trans and shift linkages off to upgrade to a cable-converted P11 70V and linkages with a modified/pivot-ball-moved-up OEM shifter. While I was in there I also installed a new rear main seal, a new Fidanza flywheel, a new ACT NX9-HDSS clutch kit, and a new OEM TOB with clips. Got 150 miles on the clutch so far, 350 more to go for the break-in period, then we can see how she feels throughout the rev range. Exciting stuff though!

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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After ordering the wrong oil pan ($20 one) I was in for a sticker shock when I saw the prices for the P10 lower oil pan. Everything was in the $300 dollar range and was relieved to find one @ $150. I didn't know it was possible to convert to the P11 oil pans, props to you for doing all that work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Bad ass work, Branden! Keep it up!
Thank you much! I appreciate that! Not much left that I want/have to do at this point. Would've been really nice to get a B15 70V installed in this thing since I plan on keeping it NA but the one that I have is spoken for and will be going in my NX. Thus, the P11 70V went in here. I guess that leaves the possibility open for me to go small boost one day, though would have to keep the WHP down since I removed my girdle. I would think even a nice 225-250whp would be more than sufficient coming from an OEM T25 or T28 setup. Boost would come on quick and taper off at right about redline anyway. Maybe some S4 cams or something (which I am actually considering for now, as they would even help NA). Boom. Done. Perfect power level for a daily driver as far as I'm concerned.

After ordering the wrong oil pan ($20 one) I was in for a sticker shock when I saw the prices for the P10 lower oil pan. Everything was in the $300 dollar range and was relieved to find one @ $150. I didn't know it was possible to convert to the P11 oil pans, props to you for doing all that work.
Yeah, I came across this as well and was NOT looking to spend $150+ on a P10-specific lower oil pan. Thought to myself that since a P11 pan set clears the P11 crossmember (obviously), and both motors are technically lowports, I couldn't find a reason why the conversion WOULDN'T work! Install went really smooth as well. Oh, and if you wanted to keep your girdle in there for block strength purposes (i.e. boost), you could still do the conversion and just cut down the baffling in the upper oil pan to clear the girdle. As I stated though, I wasn't in NEED of the added strength since I'm staying NA, so I figured easy way to free up some WHP, save me some money, AND fix up some leaks all at the same time. Win, win, win!

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
A few updates since last post.

Installed an OEM popout cupholder in place of the stock pocket.





Installed a set of Sprint Hart CP-F wheels (15x6.5 +45, 15x7, +42) with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires (205/50R15) and got the wheels all aligned so I can take the car in to get my State of Hawaii Recon inspection.









Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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New wheels look very fresh! The rubber looks nice and meaty, should be fun for you on the island! I just put my winter tyres on.... haha

-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #16
New wheels look very fresh! The rubber looks nice and meaty, should be fun for you on the island! I just put my winter tyres on.... haha

-Kyle
Thank you! I am really enjoying the package vs. my old SE 2.0's with cheapo rubber. Feels much more lively. Definitely a nicer driving experience.

And I can't imagine needing winter tires. Bleh. Hahaha!

Branden
aka hawaiiaNX
 

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The tires are looking good, sport design. Tbh never heard about extreme contact before... I think they are not offered in the European range
 
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