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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Head and Block codes...

This info should be helpful for those looking for an engine. It's also good to know so you can be a nerd to other car enthusiasts.;) An engine importer may not know the source of the engine. Checking the head and block codes is a MUST to know what you are getting. All SR20's are not created equal.

People forget that the head and the block do not always have the same code. Head codes are raised lettering located on the smaller ends of the head. Block codes are raised lettering located on the front of the cylinder block behind the exhaust manifold. Should say also say Nissan nearby. You can see it if you have headers but the stock exhaust manifold will cover it.

Anyone with more code definitons or corrections please add to the thread. Here is what I know:

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Heads:
53J: '91-'93.5 P10 (USDM high port intake manifold)
94Y: '93.5-'96 P10 (USDM low port intake manifold)
2J2: '01?-'02 p11 (Roller rocker arms, Low port intake manifold)
52F: Highport DET RWD (blacktop)
54C: Pulsar GTiR

Cylinder Blocks
53J: FWD '91-'02? G20 (unsure what block was used in P11 but I think 53J)
78E: AWD Primera T4 (DE), Bluebird SSS(DET)
52F: RWD DET (blacktop)
54C: ??AWD DET (Pulsar)

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Ultimately we would benefit from having a complete or very near complete list or SR20 head and block codes. This will enable you to know exactly which enigne will work for your car and eliminate a lot of guesswork.

For example; when I bought my replacement engine I had no knowledege of engine codes. I just looked for the SR20 that had a lowport looking manifold and bought it. The head was a 2J2 and the block was a 78E. That didn't mean anything to me. On 78E blocks, the upper oil pan has to be cut to make room for a FWD crossmember. I've also been told that both oil pans are specific to the 78E which means that you can't get replacements in the U.S. if they become damaged. It would've been best if I found a SR20DE with 2J2/53J. Luckily everything worked out; the 94Y intake manifold fit on the 2J2 head on the 78E block which was modified to fit a 53J car. ;)

Other uses would be determining which US cars you can take engines from. With a complete list, we would also be able to determine where and unknown engine posiibly came from with greater accuracy. And it's always car trendy to be able to refer to things in your engine by code...

:)



-Mike Com
 

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great post!!

what color is your valve cover on your 2j2 head? just curious.

anyway congrats on your succesful swap!
 

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It should be the same, I have the JDM Roller Rocker and the head reads KY3, the block ill let you know on Saturday as were drilling the hole in the block for the oil return for the turbo. Ill take a digicam along, and take some pics of Andreas Miko's stock 205hp SR20VE 20V in his classic SER with a Pat style Intake manifold. According to him it should be making 250WHP when done. I cant wait to feel that N/A power!!!

Anyways Mike how does it feel, more powerful and torquey? let us know!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Domiken said:
It should be the same, I have the JDM Roller Rocker and the head reads KY3, the block ill let you know on Saturday as were drilling the hole in the block for the oil return for the turbo.
Hey that's interesting. Do you know what car yours came out of? I wonder that the differences are between KY3 and 2J2. Didn't it have a special intake manifold? Try to remember the codes for the VE engines too so we can add them to the list.

The two roller rocker engines I've seen are my 2J2/78E, and a 2J2/53J. Guy around here installed a 2J2/53J in his '96.

With this engine, it seems to rev faster and pull harder than my old engine on the same setup (intake,exh,headrs,adv timing) but it's pretty marginal. The most noticeable difference with this engine is the sound the valvetrain makes at high revs. It has a higher pitched whine and I think it sounds smoother. Makes sense having rocker arms.

Right now the car is totally stock though, even timing. I'm just trying to make it a comfortable daily driver now. :dead:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
01SEdemBoobs said:
great post!!

what color is your valve cover on your 2j2 head? just curious.

anyway congrats on your succesful swap!
Thanks! The valve cover is silver, probably looks just like your valve cover.

Hey if you have a chance can you tell us your head code? You probably can't see your block code but the head code should be viewable nearby the distributor. I'm guessing it's a 2J2 but I'd like to know.
 

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Mike.Com said:


Thanks! The valve cover is silver, probably looks just like your valve cover.

Hey if you have a chance can you tell us your head code? You probably can't see your block code but the head code should be viewable nearby the distributor. I'm guessing it's a 2J2 but I'd like to know.
i figured that the valve cover would be the same in appearance to the usdm rr sr20 (i know they made at least 2 versions - i at 130 hp, and the other 150hp there was also a redtop version of the rr sr20 that i've been told, but i haven't been able to locate any information on it.)

i'm flushing my rad this weekend, so while i'm monkeying around i'll see if i can scope it out.

btw, where did you get your motor again? i've been trying to source a ukdm roller head/or valve springs. the usdm revs to 6600-6750 stock whereas it's usdm counterpart revs to 7000-7200 stock. in conjunction with the intake cam from the usdm rr sr20 (redtop or 150hp model) it should be the same equivalent as the b13/b14/p10 lowport with a 91 intake cam (though the gains wouldn't be quite as high, there would be a good improvement throughout the rpm band)

the valve springs would be a great method for those of us with 00-02 usdm sr20's to raise our wimpy redline safely.

anyway, any info i gain about head/block codes i will PM or e-mail you if you don't mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
01SEdemBoobs said:


i figured that the valve cover would be the same in appearance to the usdm rr sr20 (i know they made at least 2 versions - i at 130 hp, and the other 150hp there was also a redtop version of the rr sr20 that i've been told, but i haven't been able to locate any information on it.

Yeah I'm wondering if maybe Domiken's KY3 has more HP. Still, mine came from an AWD car so I wouldn't think they'd use a weaker engine for it but who knows...:square:

Anyone else feel free to comment. I still want to know what the non-roller rocker P11's used. I'm guessing the block is 53J but I'm not sure what head it is. Maybe 94Y??
 

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Damn I didnt make it to the shop for the drilling of the block, but definitely next weekend. My motor did have a different intake manifold which resembles the VE intake manifold greatky, and according to Andreas it did have a higher redline, the powerband is a lot stronger up top as well, and it seems like the power can keep going, not kinda start dying off like my old USDM. I take it to 7000RPM and then I hit the rev limiter which sucks, but right before I do I shift perfectly and the car doesnt chirp but has a slight little jump. Andreas wanted to compare the cams on this motor to the cams on the USDM, but I sold my head already so was not able to.

Ill take pics when we drill the block and show some more engine codes...etc..
 

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My UK '97 P11 has got

UK
2F2
3R

stamped on the battery side of the head in big letters. It's supposedly the standard non-GT engine, redlines at 6600rpm.
 

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my head code

I also have a sr20 on the head is 2L 2J2 53Jblock ill try to send you a picture i replaced my exaust manifold to that of the 53J head &added a 2.25" exaust pipe go to profile.imageshack.us/user/ctuppyt/ to see pics can you post pics of yours ?
 

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wus up the motor im getting the head code is 2f841a and the block is 003941b what motor im i getting ???? the vc is blue so idk can someone help please
 
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