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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Here's my symptoms:

- Car water temp needle hits up (normal driving) right to the last line, before the red start.
- confirmed by autometer gauge ( temp - 212-215 F)
** NOTICED that I'm losing coolant in the resevior

What I have :
I have stock fans (they work),
Nismo T-stat,
300zx rad cap
normal mix coolant

I suspect the head gasket??

anyone can confirm if this sounds like it?

Thanks !!
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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3,069 Posts
Change the stat & rad cap back to stock & see what happens

Check yer cylinder pressure
 

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I Gots More NISMO Then U!
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none of those mods will hurt anything. First things first do you have any coolent leaks??? Have you checked your spark plugs? We can go on and on about things to do and check but you need to check these thing first. How offtin are you filling the coolent up?
 

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Any white smoke from the exhaust? The white smoke can be caused by coolant in the exhaust that may have gotten there when the head gasket failure happens.
 

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has the car overheated previously? does the temp go down if you put the ac on? make sure both fans are kicking on as the temperature increases. If not Id say flush coolant first then worry about bigger problems, could also be faulty thermostat, although I noticed you placed another in there from stock...
 

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I agree with J..M. Change the radiator cap and thermostat back to the originals, although they are unlikely to be the problem.

Make sure you installed the thermostat the correct way around (not backwards). The arched bridge part should face towards the radiator. The pellet side should face the block.

Do a compression test.

Look for bubbles in the coolant. Starting from cold remove the coolant overflow cap and with the engine running look for bubbles that appear in the tank.

Check for external coolant leaks between the head and block.

A repair shop can run a test on your coolant while the engine is running. It will tell if there is carbon monoxide (exhaust) in your coolant. The test is not cheap ($70?).
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Sounds like a shagged Stat to me ..........But I'm in the buisness of being a tad tiddley @ the moment ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah , some real good ideas guys- THANKS!

I've checked the more routine items - plugs and such.

I'll run this coolant test.
- I noticed the coolant is getting SLUDGE in it. but the coolant is a month old (flushed it for winter)



will post results!


jjacob said:
I agree with J..M. Change the radiator cap and thermostat back to the originals, although they are unlikely to be the problem.

Make sure you installed the thermostat the correct way around (not backwards). The arched bridge part should face towards the radiator. The pellet side should face the block.

Do a compression test.

Look for bubbles in the coolant. Starting from cold remove the coolant overflow cap and with the engine running look for bubbles that appear in the tank.

Check for external coolant leaks between the head and block.

A repair shop can run a test on your coolant while the engine is running. It will tell if there is carbon monoxide (exhaust) in your coolant. The test is not cheap ($70?).
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Could be residual sludge ........ But I doubt that :(

:beard:
 

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Couldn't a bad/blown head gasket also cause oil to mix with the coolant in the coolant reservoir tank? Just my .02 cents..I know it doesn't help much lol...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SOOO. I finally checked my compression. I'm 20% lower in Cyl #4 than the rest.
- Talk to my mechanic, said could possibly be a small leak in head gasket. Which would account for 1. the SLOW loss of coolant (no white smoke on the tail), 2. loss of power.

Is there anything I can do to prevent a failure of the head gasket? restore compression?
(I know changing the head gasket is a biatch- I don't knwo if it's worth it.

My last option is to, turn up the boost, and beat it until it's DEAD!!!
 

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Pizdeet kak Trotsky
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Ahh change the gasket allready ........ Dooo itcha self ........ Not rocket science :beard:
 

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The Emo Kid.
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sure its taking a lot of stuff apart, but i found that nothings as hard as it seems, just time consuming, and as long as your smart and careful, and remember where things go, youll be fine. id do it yourself. i know i would do i if i had the problem. itd be a fun learning experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cool, thanks guys.

- - Is there a chance of my head beign warped. no? can it be machined?


I have a ported/polished head also - if I use that, would I have to re-tune mechanically? Timing?
 

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CH0DEmobile
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ChronicG said:
Cool, thanks guys.

- - Is there a chance of my head beign warped. no? can it be machined?


I have a ported/polished head also - if I use that, would I have to re-tune mechanically? Timing?
Usually , heads are only warped if you've experienced a serious overheat, but it could have happened while the head was off the car. A good machine shop can straighten the head using a special fixture and an "oven" of sorts. Then they can mill the surface to make sure it's completely flat. However, that's getting on the expensive side. I'd suggest you use the pnp'd head, and maybe just have the old one checked out by a machinist to see why it failed. You shouldn't have to make any major tuning changes for the new head, but if you're looking to squeeze every last bit of power out of the car, a JWT ecu or some dyno tuning with an SAFC II would help after everything is back together. I'm pretty sure you can use the metal headgasket off of the VE (someone correct me if I'm wrong) so I'd suggest that when putting everything back together.
 
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