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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...nobody replied to my post in an old thread, so I'll repost it here:

I'll be rebuilding a W10 next week and am wondering if there are any other internals I should replace while it's apart. I'm planning on doing rod bearings/main bearings and all seals/gaskets. A friend who's helping with the swap (he's a Toyota guy) said new piston rings would be good as well. My dad says a valve job. The list goes on and on.

Ideally, I'd replace all the parts with new ones, but I'm not made of money. I realize this is the ideal time to replace any worn parts since it's apart, but I need to pick and choose. Can you motorheads tell me what is needed and what is overkill?

Thanks!
 

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We need more info, why are you rebuilding the W10 ? what's wrong with it ? and how many kms did it had ? For what I see it had a bearing failure. Are you planning to change the bearings without measuring the shaft ? and changing pistons without measuring the cilinders ?


Add to the list,
* Water Pump
* Oil Pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It doesn't need to be rebuilt that I'm aware of, I just don't know where it's been or how many miles are on it. And I'm trying to replace parts that are notorious for failing on a motor that may (or may not) have been abused so I don't have to do it later when it's in the car. I figure while it's on an engine stand is the best time to do anything I might wish I'd done later. I know about the rod bearings, possibly main bearings and water pump from searching around. (Forgot to mention the water pump before). I don't plan on ordering bearings until the crankshaft is out so I can see what specs I'll need. I hadn't heard about the oil pump before.

So yeah, this motor might be perfectly fine for all I know...I'm just looking to see if any other stuff is good to do. My friend's mention of piston rings was the first I'd heard of it, so maybe that's a common Toyota problem or something. Not sure if that's really neccessary on a used SR20.

I just want to do this right the first time, because I doubt I'll be going through the swap process again.
 

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I would just do the rod bearings and the water pump. Other than that I'd get a new front, rear main seal and possibly the VC gasket if you are going to take it off to check for sludge in the head.

If your going to rebuild the motor that is another story..

About the rings. The Sr20 motor does not have any problems with the sealing of the rings in the cylinder bores from the factory so I would not touch them unless you pop the pistons out and hone the cylinders.

Edit: Forgot to mention the oil pump.. Don't touch it either. I think I have only heard of 1 or 2 SR oil pumps failing in my many years being in the SR20 community. It's a pretty sturdy part and I would only replace it if I was doing a rebuild on a motor that had a few blown rod bearings or something to that effect.

Mike
 

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usually when you rebuild an engine, you replace ALL bearings, rings, oil pump, water pump. rings are not "a common toyota problem", just something one would change when rebuilding a motor. and as you mentioned, you should measure the crank journals before you order bearings.
 

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OK, now I get it.

If I where you, would only change the water pump and would clean and check the oil pan, chankshaft and oil pickup then I would drop the engine in the car with a new clutch. Change the sparks, oil filter and oil the second before startup, rotate the crankshaft manually and give it some cranks without the fuel pump working. Then change oil & filter at 1000kms, then do a compression test and follow my thread "tune-up".

... Avenir is a wagon and most of them are autos, that engine could be perfect ...
 

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Oh, and the cost of rebuilding a SR20 like it should will be around $2K.

So unless your are building a +500whp, is not worthy.
 

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$2k is a bit steep. I had calculated rebuilding my w10 with all oem parts a few months ago and with everything it came out to @ $400. Now that doesn't include any machining or anything so the cost could go up depending on the extent of the rebuild. Add a crank for $100 and new/used det pistons for $100 if needed (which I had purchased for my motor). The price above is just a total on all the parts I would need to rebuild the motor to factory spec (Rings/bearings/bolts and gaskets)

This was my list of parts and part numbers in case you want to check anything out Nelson (note the bearing part numbers are for the grades I needed ;-)):

(2x) 12280-60J00- (crank thrust washer)
(3x) 12207-60J02- (main crank bearings grade #2)
(2x) 12207-60J03- (main crank bearings grade #3)
(8x) 12111-60J01- (connecting rod bearings grade #1)
(10x) 12293-53J00- (main bearing cap bolts)
(10x) 11056-53J00- (cylinder head bolts)
(8x) 12109-60J00- (connecting rod bolts)
(1x) 12033-53J00- (piston ring set)
(1x) 15066-4J600- (Front cover o-ring seal)
(1x) 13510-53J10- (Front main oil seal crank)
(2x) 15066-85G01- (Oil filter jack o-ring oil seals)
(1x) 15053-1E400- (oil strainer o-ring oil seal)
(1x) 12279-1E000- (Rear main oil seal)
(16x) 13203-53J00- (valve springs)
(8x) 13207-84A00- (intake valve oil seals)
(8x) 13207-2B500- (KA Exhaust valve seal[fits DET 7mm exhaust valves])
(32x) 13210-D4200- (valve spring collets)
(1x) 16175-53j00- (throttle body gasket)
(1x) 14032-53J10- (intake manifold gasket runners to plenum)
(1x) 14035-53J10- (intake manifold gasket runners to head)
(1x) 23785-53J00- (iacv-acc valve gasket)
(4x) 00933-1301A- (freeze plugs head)
(2x) 11826-53j15- (intake manifold pvc pipes)
(1x) 11826-53j14- (intake manifold pvc pipe)
(1x) 14055-53j05- (intake manifold water pipe)
(1x) 14055-53j01- (intake manifold water pipe)


Mike
 

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Nop not a monster, just how the FSM tells and how I'll do it when I have the time.

Factory Rebuid with OEM parts:

1. Pistons 75F $70e/o $280.
2. Piston rings $95
3. Gaskets $300
4. Oil Pump $250
5. Water Pump $75
6. Timming Chain Guides $115
7. Timming Chain $80
8. Timming Chain Tensioner $80
9. Timming Chain Tensioner Gasket $20
10. Thermostat $30
11. Temperature sender unit $30
12. Rod & Bearings $175 1530
13. Valve Stem Seals $75
14. Front and Rear Seals $50
15. Belts $55
16. Rocker Arms $22 e/o $176
17. Valve lifters $41 e/o $328
____________________________

$2208

Still need:
18. Valve Springs
19. Valve Retainers
20. Measure the crankshaft
21. Meausre the cilinder blocks
22. Measure and clean the head
23. All the turbo gaskets and bolts.

And a lot of things I'm forgetting

Hope helps.
 

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Ahh.. Dam that is expensive. I was calculating using used parts like I was going to do with my motor. I had most of the parts accumulated but I gave up and sold the motor so I could turbo my usdm de that is in the car now. It was just an easier cheaper rout for me.

CarloSR said:
1. Pistons 75F $70e/o $280.
If your going with new oem pistons you should get the 54c gti-r pistons. I have some comparison pictures of the 54c pistons vs the 79e pistons that come in the non gti-r det's check them out. The 54c's have thicker skirts and they also have channels cast into the dome of the pistons to allow the oil squirter's to do a better job at cooling them:
The 54c piston is on the left in both pictures.
http://www.sr20.net/d/63033-2/IMG_1263.JPG?

Skirts:
http://www.sr20.net/d/63042-2/IMG_1273.JPG?

54c (you can see the channel in this pic:
http://www.sr20.net/d/63989-2/IMG_1363.JPG?

79e (almost looks like a regular de piston from the bottom):
http://www.sr20.net/d/63036-2/IMG_1265.JPG?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks a lot guys. Sorry for the confusion on my terminology. I'm not really "rebuilding" it, I guess...just taking some things apart and replacing anything that has failed or might fail in the near future and will be a PITA once the motor's in. I don't plan on even upgrading the turbo from the T25, so at absolute max with some tuning and the S4 cams Carlos sold me awhile ago I'll probably have like 220-230hp.

Mike, thanks for that part listing and part #s. That'll probably be a big help in making sure I've got the right stuff if/when I order any of those things.

I'm just trying to sponge up as much knowledge as possible and prepare for this. I've been on here and SR20forum like 6 hours a day for the past couple of weeks. The motor should be here this weekend or early next week! Clutch and various other tidbits are en route also. Still need to send my ecu out to JWT though.
 

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FRESH CROSS HATCHES!!!



if you didnt already list that.

basically, id do rings, pistons, main and rod bearings, crank balanced and journals checked, hone, valve seals, have guides bores checked, valve faces checked, seats checked and or recut, seals, etc etc etc.
 
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