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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, so Im here trying to write an English paper, but I got writters block. So I decided to come here and seek your help. my 93 p10 doesnt have a working heater right now and I was hoping to get your help trouble shooting it. I check fuses, fusible links, all seem to be good. air conditioner works perfectly, kinda useless when its 30 degrees outside :eh: but anyways, I move the lever to the warm side and I can barely feel any minimal warming, anyone know any common culprits when it comes to Gs and none working heaters?
 

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I'm having the smae problem, I decided it was the actual heating unit (in the dash) so I removed that whole thing and I am waiting on a new one to be shipped.

Hey are you still interested in that suspension I have?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
which ones were the ones you were offering? Im sorry I forgot since I've been a little busy lately.
 

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so my heat seems to work fine, except it takes like 20+ mins to actually get hot. pretty much since my commute to school every morning is only about 10 mins long, i'm freezing the whole time, is 20+ mins for the heat to get hot normal? i dont remember my little mercedes 190d diesel taking that long, or my volvo s40 for that matter.

G20 Driver.
 

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nah it shouldn't. I know that some cars use circulating coolant from the motor to heat up the coils that then heat up the interior of your car, then there should also be some heating elements I think to help the process along, Im not too good with the HVAC systems, that's why Im looking for some better input
 

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well as soon as your coolant temp is getting up your heater should be fine, what was the last time you flushed the coolant? this is a pure guess but if this was not done for a while and sluge block the heater core water ways then you would not get any or much hot water in there result no heat or small amount of heat from heater.
If coolant color is rusty or was at some point/ coolant was not changed every 30K, 60K, or 100K (depending on coolant type) to the point that you can see sluge in your radiator this is possible. otherwise ignore this and dont waste money to flush your money on flushing out radiator and cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks I had a flush when I changed the coolant temp sensor and replaced recently when I put in a new alternator... the thing is Im running 100% coolant, no water, is this bad, keeps my car nice and cool and I haven't noticed any adverse effects. could this be Y I get no heat? also coolant is still nice and green, also new thermostat in there :crosseyed
 

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Ok here is a better answer,
1. Do you have air blowing when you put it on the foot section? Yes...move on to 2 if it is no check the blower motor.
2. Check radiator cap, low level coolant, and air in the system... if nothing is wrong here move to 3.
3. check In and Out hoses. In should be Hot, Out should be warm. If both warm Bingo replace thermostat.
4. Back flush heater core otherwise and this should be resolved. If both hoses still just get warm then you have to replace the heater core.

This is a direct chart from the infiniti g20 manual. Good luck
 

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Opps never mind I miss read your answer as 100% water first!

read the lable and make sure. I dont know. I buy 50/50 mix so I do not add any lwater since it is already 50/50. I am in houston which does not get less than 25.

100% coolant should not do this. But it seems like your heater core is either clogged which has been cleaned by flushing. So the answer is number 4. Check the hose to see if it is warm and warm, if so change heater core. if it is hot and warm, make sure your instrument inside the car is working fine.
 

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my coolant level is fine and it is a nice green color, but could the heater core still be clogged up and this is the reason for my issue? or is 20+ mins normal for the G's heat to get warm?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
lol, I'll check the hoses tomorrow, being a 13 year old car I think the heater core might be gone... the reason I put in 100% coolant was cause at the time I didn't know what the car used, I later found out they suggest 50/50 oh well. thanks bud...
 

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gomd3 said:
the thing is Im running 100% coolant, no water, is this bad, keeps my car nice and cool and I haven't noticed any adverse effects. could this be Y I get no heat? also coolant is still nice and green, also new thermostat in there :crosseyed
With all due respect...running 100% coolant is baaaaaaadddd! Never, ever run 100% coolant. Glycol needs water to function correctly. 100% coolant will turn to Jello in the winter, and will overheat in the summer. You need to immediately, and I mean immediately drain the coolant out and replace it with a 50/50 mix or 60/40 (coolant/water) mix. You can buy a cheap coolant tester (looks just like a battery tester) that will tell you your level of freezing protection. 50/50 will get you -30F protection.
Is 100% coolant your problem with heat. Yep. Your heater is plugged or slow moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
... damn.. weird thing is I haven't had any trouble overheating or in the winter it looking like Jello, I'll try to look into draining it and adding some water...
 

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If you had this problem before putting 100% coolant in, the heater should not magically be fixed by switching back. But Jjacob says it is bad..so drian some and add water. No need to drain all. 60/40 should be fine as lable says. Did you check the hose to see if it is warm-warm or hot-warm?
 

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ummm if your heater core went bad, you would know, it would have rotted out and shot coolant all over the inside of your car or the first sign would have been your windows fogging up and your interior smelling like engine coolant (it happened to me on my old 89 conquest tsi). sounds like your blower motor is working, so i would say the problem is somewhere with the linkage between the hot/cold control panel and the box in your dash that actually changes the flow of hot air and cold/outside air. pull that center panel off your dash and feel around for the blue line that links all of that up (almost like a cable for brakes on a bike its def a lite blue line). the line may have came loose and isnt allowing you to properly adjust the temp control of the control panel.
 

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oh yea, and i couldnt see the heater core ever clogging unless you put some coolant-stop-leak in your radiator... its almost impossible, just wanted to throw that in there too
 

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Infiniti repair manual published by Nissan says the test to troubleshoot is what I have posted. I suppose all heater cores are not equal! and they
break in different ways. GM made car generally have coolant in the car when heater core goes bad but this is not a GM made car and factory suggest something else. Little different.
bad, clogged or whatever you want to call it do the test of hot-warm or warm-warm to see if it is working right.
 

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ferrari21 said:
oh yea, and i couldnt see the heater core ever clogging unless you put some coolant-stop-leak in your radiator... its almost impossible, just wanted to throw that in there too
I'll agree that it is more likely for the heater core to leak. However, they often do plug up from corrosion and rust from the heater core itself, and also from elsewhere in the engine. I have replaced many in other cars for this reason (as well as leaking).

Your suggestion on the heater cables having slipped or a heater door not being actuated is a good diagnosis.

I'll say it again. Never run 100% antifreeze. At very low temperatures it will turn to Jello (I have seen it). It is also less effective in heat transfer than a coolant water mix. At mix levels past 70/30 (coolant/water) the coolant becomes less effective.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks, didn't drive the car today, but I'll try to drain a bit tomorrow and add some H20 to the system. Let you guys know about the lines...
 

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jjacob said:
I'll agree that it is more likely for the heater core to leak. However, they often do plug up from corrosion and rust from the heater core itself, and also from elsewhere in the engine. I have replaced many in other cars for this reason (as well as leaking).

Your suggestion on the heater cables having slipped or a heater door not being actuated is a good diagnosis.

I'll say it again. Never run 100% antifreeze. At very low temperatures it will turn to Jello (I have seen it). It is also less effective in heat transfer than a coolant water mix. At mix levels past 70/30 (coolant/water) the coolant becomes less effective.
it's very easy for a heater core to get clogged if your running 100% antifreeze and maybe never flushed the system, or just kept adding more when it was low. the engine needs to heat up (to operating temp) as quick as possible. You are actually doing more harm if you are running it cold
 
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