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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, im no foreigner to the search button, ive been looking now for the past while learning and all about Hid’s… I came to a bit of a conclusion that in order to correctly use the HID to its fullest extent, you should use it with a projector (round glass guy with a cutoff) otherwise youll be shining the hell out of everyones eyes.. but what I wonder is that I know a lot of members here have HIDs but never mounted up one of those projectors into their headlight housing.. so are they essentially blinding everyone they pass on the road?


The reason I ask, is I want to get HID’s, maybe not this second, but soon. And I want to know how to go about it.. I see all sorts of colors etc.. seems like 4100k or 4300k are the brightest (pure white) not that blue stuff. Which is what im looking for, visibility! But given the right harness/ballast/bulb combo if I just place it in the regular p11 housing.. would that be crazy blinding for everyone else? Or should I try to fit a projector piece inside the p11 housing in order to make them..
 

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I'm Better Than Zohaib
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im working on finding out also.

if you want the bulb/ballast combo i know www.jlevisw.com is a good place to get them. thats where i got them for my VW

just let them know the bulb size
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea, ive read so many places and i guess i just have a lesser understanding for lighting..

for example. hid lights in say a stock p11 housing = illegal (i think) cause it has no cutoff, and just sprays the light all over..

hid lights in projector = good (has cutoff, wont blind people)

but then i think of all the g20s ive seen (and other cars) with HID's in their stock housings.. yea it looks bright as hell.. but is it even legal?


like i love the look of the p11 housing (i love the primera dual housing better, but yea.. thats too much $$) so i dont want to change it by tossing in a single projector.. i feel it would just make the headlight look funny.
 

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you can also space the bulb (where its mounted) to give it a more specific beam and change the cutoff a bit...
 

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Mark. Take a look at my avatar.

You should NEVER go with aftermarket HID kits. They are absolutely trash and a big waste of money. They have color? Yes. They are bright? No. If you really want performance, go with OEM projectors. They are ranging from $75-$500 per pair. Also. Go with OEM ballasts and ignitors, ballasts/ignitor/bulbs should cost you no more than $200. OEM uses D2S bulb applications.
 

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DragonEye said:
you can also space the bulb (where its mounted) to give it a more specific beam and change the cutoff a bit...
not really. 1) Using H4 (assuming you are using aftermarket hid kit). They are NOT designed correctly to fit in any halogen housing. No matter how you try to space the bulb and twist the bulb around. You will not get the lights to work properly. 2) Using OEM bulbs, again, OEM bulbs are not designed for halogen housing. Even with Caspershields, you will not get the light output as OEM. So big waste of money.
 

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lay2ie said:
not really. 1) Using H4 (assuming you are using aftermarket hid kit). They are NOT designed correctly to fit in any halogen housing. No matter how you try to space the bulb and twist the bulb around. You will not get the lights to work properly. 2) Using OEM bulbs, again, OEM bulbs are not designed for halogen housing. Even with Caspershields, you will not get the light output as OEM. So big waste of money.

I will just make some projector housings then... probably just grab some silvia tripple projectors again and use the back only...
 

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DragonEye said:
I will just make some projector housings then... probably just grab some silvia tripple projectors again and use the back only...

Go to HIDPlanet.com/forums. They have the best resources. I learned them all from there.
 

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i know.

I used some other resources as well to work on some projectors before. When i had my VW i was the first to do alot of things with their lighting. I hope to be the same with the P-10's
 

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I think p10 has fluted lense. You have to do alot of sanding and buffing to make them clear. Im sure 90% of the retrofits use the same technique. Cut the back of the housing just enough to mount the projector. Use an OEM shroud or custom made to cover the projector to get a better look.
 

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I'll just use the mounting points then... thats all ill need... and i can always make a new lense for it or retrofit another..
 

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Stealing from HP:

EunosTT said:
Start with 80 grit or even 50 grit if your flutes are large. The idea here is to remove as much of the flutes as possible. Polycarb is a hard material, so the more even you get it at this stage the better it will be.

Someone who has just faint lines in a clear lens I do not know if I would bother sanding, but rather replace it with a clear aftermarket lens like in a case of an Accord. If that does not exist, may be start with sanding at 120grit or so.

All higher grits are basically to remove the damage caused by sanding the lens with previous grits. So after 50/80 grit I followed by 120, 180, 220. That was all dry sanding. They you do wet sanding with warm water. Have to rinse often to keep sandpaper functional. I used 3M wet/dry paper that bodyshops use. So Automotive Grade. After 220, went to 320, 400, 600. 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and then various grades of plastic polishes.

The useful idea that I found was to dump the water after sanding a while (20-30min) and dry it out. Then look at the bright light (like a 300w halogen floor lamp) throught the lens. You are looking for larger sanding marks from previous grit. This is very important I found to get rid of the previous grit's sanding marks. Otherwise, there is no point in going further, you will still have deeper scratches. So be patient. There were a few too many times I was gonna smash the lenses against the wall.

The further in grit ratings you go, the longer you will spend on each consequitive grit, especially after you pass 600-800 grit.

Sand in circular motions, use bandages on your fingers to avoid blisters, they hurt. If after finishing with 2000 grit and polishing with a plastic polish it is still cloudy, go back to grit 800 - 1000 and start fron there again.

I found you can do sanding while watching TV or listening to music, times goes by fast.

Also know that some people used a very small area sanders (I think from Craftsman) to get the initial stage going, but generally power tools can damage your lenses too much, so although hand sanding is longer, may be safer. Your call.

Alternatively, if you can find GTS black out covers for your headlights, chances are the clear ones exist as well. Although they are not polycarbonate but rather acrylic, you can do a lens replacement and may be after it is done, cover them with a clear protective film from 3M like www.xpel.com offers.

Here is how they ended up looking, edges were painted with black afterwards to gove them OEM look:

 

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Also, this is how it look like when using H4 Casper shield

Jazz said:
I did a test for the customtaco site showing what a Casper shield would look like comparing D2S & D2R bulbs. And I did some other tests also. I'm not too happy with casper shields, I think it will cause glare. Of course, these are fluted lenses might be different in a free form reflector.

Here's the first test D2S compared to D2R, both with casper shields:
(D2S on left, D2R on right) - (D2S alone) - (D2R alone)


Here's the second test D2S with Casper compared to H4 Halogen:
(D2S on left, H4 Halogen on right) - (D2S alone) - (H4 Halogen alone)


And of course, I had to compare it to an E55 w/o shrouding (still less glare)
Here's the third test D2S with Casper compared to E55:
(D2S on left, E55 on right) - (D2S alone) - (E55 alone)


And for kicks, here a top/bottom shot to show color difference (I was running this test on a 14AH SLA)


All tests were done with the headlights sitting on two patio chairs which were side by side. I was sharing the same battery for both. Also the distance is about 15-17 feet.
EDIT: Clickable Thumbnails added
 
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