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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '96 that just turned over 70,000 miles on Monday. It still has the original clutch obviously, but I was wondering how much longer I could expect to use it before it starts to go out. I realize this is rather subjective in that it depends a lot on driver and type of driving. Also, for those who have already had the clutch on their G20 go out, what things should I be watching for as an early warning sign? I would appreciate any info you could give me. Thanks everyone.
 

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I got 159k out of my original clutch in my SE-R.

Of course, I'm pretty easy on a clutch.

YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also, where does your clutch engage? Mine engages when the pedal is almost all of the way out. I've driven a number of other cars; some engage in this range and others engage earlier. All I know is what the G20's manual says. It talks about making sure there's no more than 1/8 inch or so of play in the pedal. I've never gotten out a ruler and measured it, but there's not much play to it, so I'm not concerned about that.
 

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Money G20 said:
Mine engages when the pedal is almost all of the way out. I've driven a number of other cars; some engage in this range and others engage earlier.
You can adjust the clutch cable under the hood by loosening it and the engagement point will go lower to the floor.

My '91 NX2000 went 123,000 miles before it croaked. The disk was no more. All that was left were the pop rivets. Ended up destroying the forks in the tranny and only had 1st gear and 5th gear. Needless to say, I had to replace the tranny and get a new clutch in there before I could sell it.

My current G20 has 55,000 miles on it, but I repalced the clutch a few thousand ago because it was slipping and there was no more adjustment on it. I am assuming the first owner road the clutch with his foot all the time. Older gentleman and a one owner.

Every car will be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NismoPC said:
I am assuming the first owner road the clutch with his foot all the time.

That's one way to make it a smooth ride! Did you replace it with a stock clutch or did you go for an upgrade? I wouldn't expect the stock clutch to hold much more than 180 hp without slipping.
 

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My Clutch on my SRi Primera P11 lasted 30,000 miles:eek:
 

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132,000 miles here on the original clutch with no slipping, and it never needs adjusting either. '94 2.0 Primera.
 

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Chris said:
I was also told that a sign of a clutch going was if it was pretty heavy to press in the G20 because it isn't supposed to be a heavy clutch...

Nah. It's not uncommon for the pedal to get heavy. Not common, but not uncommon. It can be caused by crap in the cable or the grease in the clutch fork pivots getting gunked.

Mine was really heavy in my SE-R for quite a while before I replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Geo said:
Nah. It's not uncommon for the pedal to get heavy. Not common, but not uncommon. It can be caused by crap in the cable or the grease in the clutch fork pivots getting gunked.

Mine was really heavy in my SE-R for quite a while before I replaced it.

Is there any way to clean that or is it just as easy to replace the parts? I suppose the clutch fork pivots could be cleaned, but the cable would have to be replaced? I'm not noticing anything being heavy, so hopefully it will stay that way for a while.
 

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Money G20 said:

That's one way to make it a smooth ride! Did you replace it with a stock clutch or did you go for an upgrade? I wouldn't expect the stock clutch to hold much more than 180 hp without slipping.
I actually replaced mine with a C.A.P. Clutch Kit. It has a little more clamping force (560Kg I believe) than the OEM clutch(450Kg) and uses a non-oem stock replacement disk. It was only $99. I've had it for a few months and so far it seems to be reliable. The disk was kinda shabby though. Not a smooth finish at all compared to the stock one. But grabs real well!

Total cost was $118 shipped to my door. Took about 6.5 hours to install. First time to install a clutch.

They have a performance kit available as well for about $30 more.

Here is their website if interested:
http://www.capclutch.com/

They are outta Puerto Rico and only took 3 days to receive the kit in Ohio once I ordered it. Great service.
 

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How long a clutch lasts depends strickly on the driver--mine lasted 100k -BUT the easy test to check you clutch if as follows

Drive car until at about 40mph---place in 5th gear and floor it!

if the tach races rpms and the car is not going any faster --your clutch is slipping--you can try adjustment but at 70k miles I would change it or the job will be even more expensive later---I suggest the Infiniti clutch unless you are planning on racing--then make sure you get a top quality one--there are lots of clutchs on market but few that are high quality. If you pay the dealer it should cost about $700-850 -private shops may be cheaper but again check the clutch maf--they will all tell you they are as good as infiniti but few are. Most reputable private shops will quote you both with aftermarket and dealer parts--then you can make the decision--for me the difference was about 50bucks--I chose infiniti
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks! I'll try that on my drive home this evening. I'm pretty sure I'm still in good shape, but it never hurts to check. I've not decided yet if I'm going to start modifying my G20 or if I'll just save up my money and buy something that won't need any extra power. Hopefully I have another 30,000 miles before I need to start to worry about the clutch.
 

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lee756 said:
If you pay the dealer it should cost about $700-850 -private shops may be cheaper
And that is why most of us DIY'ers choose to do it ourselves. Total cost for mine was approx. $140 for the clutch kit, 8 qts of GL-4 gear oil and installed by yours truly. :p

As a side note, most dealers (Nissan and Infiniti included) install what they have on hand which in this case is usually the Nissan Value clutch. Usually cost $99 before installation. And it has the same parts as most non-oem clutch kits including Paurat, Sachs, Velio, and the clutch I purchased.

Velio and Sachs are good replacements. Mine is a great replacement if you are on a budget and are not planning on high HP mods in the future.
 

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I also just found out the pressure plate I got in my $99 C.A.P. Clutch kit is the same as the JWT pressure plate. Hmm? Does JWT really do anything with the springs or is the DAIKIN pressure plate the same unit JWT sells. Makes me wonder now.

DAIKIN 560 Kg clamping force (replacement)
NISSAN 450 Kgs clamping force (original)

See, DAIKIN is the replacement pressure plate manufacturer for Nissan clutch kits and is the same pressure plate that JWT includes in their kit.

Go here for more and some pictures:

http://www.sr20deforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18864
 

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I replaced my clutch at 68,000 with the clutchmasters stage 1 clutch kit. It was a little expensive at $300, plus the $70 for next day delivery. But well worth it. I love the light pedal feel. It took about 4.5 hours to install, but I had a lift.
 

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im at 80k, and my clutch is starting to slip every now and then...what do you guys think of the ACT street/strip kit on digital racer? too expensive? going overboard? i was gonna go ahead and put a light JUN flywheel in with it...

im expecting to spend around 1000 or so with labor, i havent talked to the local performance shop yet.

what do you guys think? feel free to tell me im stupid and shouldnt be spending this much money on my tranny
 
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