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I was rotating my tires yesterday, and 2 of them broke off while taking off my lugnuts...

Damnit...

This never happened before, rotated my tires a million times on my Altima, slowly work them all 4 off at the same rate, not stupidly trying to take off 1 and a time, but ugh...

Also the first time I ever even took off the wheels on the G, so I'm thinking the previous owner, when they had new tires put on, the shop machine tightened the wheels on, and over tightened them or something.

Anyway, around how much should it cost to replace them?

I originally thought it can't be too hard, but then someone else told me a shop needs to do it because they're machine pressed in.

Anyway, um, ballpark price?
 

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I got some alike studs for my NX at NAPA once, and I pressed them in by tightening open lugs down like crazy.

I'm sure some purists are going to get all busted about that idea though, they should be pressed in to make sure they're in properly. anyone else want to chime in with the right way?
 

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happend to P11Gdub...its quite inexpensive. Ive sone it before and its REAL easy to do...just get a mallet and hammer it out. make sure to rotate the rotor so the lug you want to pop out doesnt hit the brake shield and pound it out with a mallet or a hammer if you want to me gangsta. replace the broken one with the new one and hit it in. bam...your done. then you can tighten the nut to let the lug sit in place tightly...
 

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we share the same colossal strength.

it's a very easy fix, and one stud cost me $1.50. EvilYak did mine when we installed my coils. spin the rotor, so the back of the bolt is clear (from the sheild). then tap out the snapped bolt. pop in the new bolt from the rear, and thread on a lugnut by hand. as you tighten the lugnut, it will align the bolt, nice and straight.
 

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Same thing happened to me..I used some washers and stacked those on the new stud once it was through the rotor and used my stock lug to pull it through with the washers under. Do what P11GDub said..I did it the hard way and removed my calipers along with the whole rotor. I didn't see a spot for the stud to go through, but a second look revealed it..too bad I had already done it the hard way...and make sure you use washers around the stud when you put the lug on...Mike, I don't think the stock lug nut is long enough to be tightened over the stud alone..you need some washers under it OR you can use an open ended lug nut which might be easier than the washers.

I took it to the shop for the heck of it (one of the ghetto ones) and they told me $60-$80..I did it for about $3.00 :cheese:
 

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Same here about $8 total. If the lug comes off it is easy. If the lug is stuck on it is harder. Either way like the guys said it can be done by oneself.
 

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Same thing happened to me..I used some washers and stacked those on the new stud once it was through the rotor and used my stock lug to pull it through with the washers under. Do what P11GDub said..I did it the hard way and removed my calipers along with the whole rotor. I didn't see a spot for the stud to go through, but a second look revealed it..too bad I had already done it the hard way...and make sure you use washers around the stud when you put the lug on...Mike, I don't think the stock lug nut is long enough to be tightened over the stud alone..you need some washers under it OR you can use an open ended lug nut which might be easier than the washers.

I took it to the shop for the heck of it (one of the ghetto ones) and they told me $60-$80..I did it for about $3.00 :cheese:
I have a G20T 99 as well.

My oil shop broke the lug on the rear passenger wheel and then they wanted $60 to replace it.

So to make sure, you do NOT need to remove the rear caliper and rotor to bang out the stud at all? Then to put the stud back in there is enough clearance for me to stick it back through?
I just want to make sure I can do this myself at home with the basics of tools (I only have the jack that comes with the care to change a wheel and some other basic tools)
You said "I didn't see a spot for the stud to go through, but a second look revealed it", is this spot close to the caliper?

Thanks
 

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Personally, I'd take the rotor and caliper off just to see what it going on. I wouldn't disconnect the caliper from the brake lines; just move it out of the way and then either hang it up with some string or rest it on something. Don't let it dangle by the brake line.

I haven't actually done it, but I'd envision that you would need to clock the hub in a way that the stud would be punched out without hitting the brake shield. And given my luck with bending brake shields every time I work of my car, I can't imagine blindly hammering a stud out hoping it pops out in the right place without taking a quick look see.
 

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you should be able to do it with out removing the rotor nissan is pretty good about making things easy, there should be a "void" for the stud to be hammered out once to take it out do the two lug method one on top of the other to install the new one(youtube it) 4-6$ fix not counting your time....haha
 

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Thank you guys. I will give it a shot.
I would remove the caliper but apparently I need some kind of special tool to push in the piston etc. so I was hoping to just get away without having to go buy tools.

These wheels have only 4 studs. What could happen if I drive around with only 3 as it is now?
Could it cause some major damage in case I need to go to a shop to get it done after a failed attempt ?
I'm thinking also, I might call that Midas store back up and demand they fix it since they broke it, but I am not in the mood for confrontations these days, so I need to think that one.
 

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I here your frustration about the shop but it could have been the person before who over tighten weakening the stud you can drive around with 3 lugs no problem, and for the caliper just get a vise grip cover the teeth with tape and turn clock wise. I would look at it and "picture" the process and learn from it. good luck
 

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The only special tool that you need to push the piston in is a large C clamp that can fit over. You just keep screwing it in until the piston is pressed all the way...However, you won't need to do that in this case UNLESS you are changing your pads. If you aren't changing your pads the caliper should go back on without any issues.

3 studs should be fine temporarily as long as the lug nuts are torqued to spec.
 
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