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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DYI: Installing a new system using stock head unit

I just installed my amp and sub using the convertor today. I went to Best buy and bought an RF 8 gauge wiring kit (which included the main wire that goes from batter to the amp, a ground wire, and fuse) which was 40 bucks. Then I bought 3.3f RCA cables which were like $3.50. And finally the inline convertor which was $23 bucks. Dont buy the big wiring kits that are like $100 because they have long RCA cables which you dont need.

We wired the main wire from the battery, through the drivers side door, on the floor and to the back. I had to pull my backseats off so I could easily slide the wire into the trunk.

Then pull the connector that has like 20 wires from the back of the stock amp. Its a white connector. The wire that you are looking for out of all those is a green wire with a silver line through it. Dont cut that wire, but just strip it of its insulator about 3/4". Then take another separate speaker wire, rap it around the uninsulated part, and then use some electrical tape around it to make sure no bare part of the wire is seen. This is called the remote turn on wire, which will later go into the amp, and turns the amp on and off when the car turns on. After you have connected the wires, put the white connector back into the stock amp.

NOTE: Some one found that the wire used for remote in their car is GREEN with a RED stripe...SO..best bet is to use a test light to see which wire has power when you turn your ignition key to Accessories.

This is a long post, but bare with me, Im explaining on how to do a hard process. I would recommend printing this out and reading it carefully if installing it this way.

Then running from each of the 2 speakers in the back in the trunk, you will see 2 wires. The right speaker has an orange wire and a black wire. The left speaker has a green and black wire. Strip all these wires of its insulators about 1/2" or so. Attach to the each of 4 speaker wires (2 for left speaker, 2 for right speaker) a separate wire, which is about 3 feet long. You will need these to connect your inline converter soon.

Take out your inline converter, and look at it. Mine had 6 wires running from it. 2 brown (which you dont need, dont worry about it), 2 white (1 plain white and 1 white/black) and 2 gray (1 plain gray, 1 gray/black). Read the short directions that come with the convertor, because it tells you whether to hook up certain wires to the right or left speaker. Make sure you dont get this mixed up. This is what I did on mine...Attach the plain white wire to the black wire on right speaker (attach it to that extended wire that you ran). Attach the white/black wire to the orange wire on the right side. Attach the gray plain wire to the black wire on left side, and attach the gray/black wire to the green wire the left side.

Now your inline converter is plugged in, which is probbaly the hardest thing to do. Then just plug in the RCA cables into the inline convertor, and plug in the other side into your new amp.

Attach the remote turn on wire that is coming from the stock amp connector (we did this earlier, remember?), into your new amp (there should be a spot there). Then just connect your subs into your amp, and you are ready to bump.

Did I miss anything? Its been a hard day trying to install this, and Im just recalling what I can remember. Peace
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds great man. The volume goes of the sub itself goes up and down with the stock volume control on the dash, and you can also use the bass controls to get it at the level you want it. Bumps hard, easy to control, sounds good....what more could you want
 

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I did the same thing as you when I installed my sub but I found out later that if you find the speaker wires before they go into the amp and wire it that way the sound is much cleaner and you can turn up the gain on the amp with out all that low volume bass.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do you mean by finding the speaker wires before they go into the amp? Are you talking about the 2 speaker wires on each amp? What other place would you find them?
 

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On the wiring harness going into the amp, find the speaker wires coming out of the head unit and going into the amp. In other words wire it up before it go's into the amp. This way the signal is not amplified twice which causes some distortion and not so accurate volume control. If you like I will try to take some pics so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh I get it, I wish I knew that before I did my other method, because I already have everything connected.
 

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Koojo said:
It sounds great man. The volume goes of the sub itself goes up and down with the stock volume control on the dash, and you can also use the bass controls to get it at the level you want it. Bumps hard, easy to control, sounds good....what more could you want
Awesome cause thats what I wanted to do but I heard from someone that it wouldnt sound could and couldnt be installed with the factory stuff. But I wanted to do it! and I think im goin to lol :monster:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's definatly doable, don't listen to places that say you can't install stuff with the stock system because they just want you to replace everything and spend money, or unless they really dont know what they are talking about.
 

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What color are the speaker wires that run into the stock amp from the head unit???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure, but Im guessing they would be the same color wires that go to the actual speakers.
 

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If the P11 wires are anything like my wifes '95 Pathfinder or my '96 G20, the wires that come out of the stock radio are the same color when they go into the amplifiers, BUT the wires coming out of the amp to the speakers are different colors.

I physically took the amps apart and removed the circuit board to identify the correct wire colors. The scematics are written right on the bottom of the circuit board. Just follow the title to the correct pinout and see what color wire that one is, write it down, then move on to the next wire until you have all of them written down.
 

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I will be doing the same thing as Koojo only you dont need the line-level converter (unless your using an older amp without high level input. All new amps come with high level input, so just splice the speaker wire and that plugs into the amp, which cuts out the need for the converter. Prolly sounds the same, but cuts down your cost by ~$30?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How are you planning to run the RCA cables without the inline converter? That's what the converter box is used for, to run the RCA's. If you keep your stock deck, you will need this inline converter (22 bucks).
 

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I am not using RCA cables at all. All newer amps have both high (speaker wire) and low (RCA) level inputs. So you can either use RCA plus converter, or just spice your speaker wire and plug that into the high level input.
 

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I pulled the backseats of my p11 up today and found under it wires which i think are coming from the stock head unit. On the right side there are two wires:green and purple and on the left there are two wires: pink and blue. Someone correct me if I'm wrong because I'm about to install my subs and use the wires that are before the stock amp. Also gally14 have you tried it w/out the converter because I looked at my amp and there are stereo level inputs which would mean that there's no need for the converter right?
 

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Koojo said:
How are you planning to run the RCA cables without the inline converter? That's what the converter box is used for, to run the RCA's. If you keep your stock deck, you will need this inline converter (22 bucks).
High-level inputs are actually on the amp. They allow you to run a radio signal directly into the amp from the speaker wires. Same idea as a line level convertor, but it is built into the amp already. No need for RCA's at all.

I was always under the impression that this (hi-level) did not provide the cleanest sound quality either and that using RCA's provides the cleanest possible signal with lower distortion rates unless you go to a fiber optic or digital set-up.

My only question, would be does the stock head unit have a strong enough signal to run into the amp as high-level? Since it is a non amplified receiver, I would think the signal might be too weak.

Gally14, are you using the stock head unit or a aftermarket one?
 

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I am using my stock HU. But I am going to be splicing the wires after the stock amp, so the signal will be amplified a bit. This is what the guy said at the audio store.
 

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You dont need a line-level converter if your amp has high level input (a little plug), if you have thas input your amp has a built in converter.

I cant see how converting sound to RCA would give you better quailty, if anything you would lose quilty??? Just a guess though.
 
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